16 MARCH 23-29, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | NEWS | LETTERS | CONTENTS | 3/26/23* miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Hot Mess Mess Miami inside the Alexander Hotel is a neat surprise. BY JEN KARETNICK Y ou might find yourself a little puzzled by the Alexander, a Mid-Beach oceanfront resort, which you perhaps last thought of as a dining destination when Shula’s Steak House opened in 1998. The sputnik light fixtures overhead are half-extin- guished at the valet, which costs a retro five bucks. Inside, glittering chandeliers also recall its 1960s past, as does a sweeping staircase. But patterned carpets and a clashing array of upholstered, mismatched furniture chal- lenge any midcentury elegance — or even its most recent restora- tion in 2019. And be- cause guests skew mostly Orthodox Jewish, drawn to the property for its Shab- bat elevator and ko- sher conveniences, the presence of the decidedly non- kosher restaurant Mess Miami is almost illogical. Mess is wedged into the back corner of the hotel, accessed by going up to the mezzanine level and out to the main outdoor deck, which is largely deserted at night. Right before you cross the threshold of its exterior entrance, you think, Is this restaurant named for what I’m about to find inside? In fact, Mess has its act completely to- gether. The slightly odd moniker is thanks to Argentine chef-proprietor Facundo Kairuz, who moved to Miami from New York during the most intense portion of the pandemic. Be- fore opening the restaurant, he worked as a private chef in the all-suites building. He named his eatery in honor of “messmates” who routinely sit together for meals, such as those in the armed services or those who work in hospitality and have a family meal be- fore they take to the floor. Or those who have survived a pandemic. A complete depar- ture from the hotel in aesthetic, Mess gleams with variations of woods, black metal, leather, and greenery, courtesy of Suma De- sign Studio. It’s mini- malist and modern, yet cozy and inviting at the same time. It attracts a wildly different crowd, with guests ranging from locals to sleeveless, tattooed tourists. A veteran of Chopped, Kairuz applies the same style to the fare, which he makes from scratch as much as possible — including the rosemary focaccia he bakes with specialty ar- tisanal flour he sources from Anson Mills in South Carolina. A graduate of the Gastro- nomic Institute of Argentina, he has worked with chefs throughout South and North America, from José Ignacio at Isla de Flores in Uruguay to Camille Becerra at the James Beard Award-winning DeMaria. Working with the latter, who has appeared on Top Chef, he developed a fascination with local, seasonal, organic, and health-conscious cuisine. He’s also been influenced by his wife, he told us during dinner one evening, who was a vegan until pregnancy cravings encour- aged her to become vegetarian. To that end, plenty of items on the menu appeal to flexitarians. These range from the roasted maitake mushroom with goat cheese plated over black-eyed peas and topped with pea sprouts to a housemade pork sausage that he offers with a sweet potato mash and herb salad. The chef wasted no time getting to know the local produce, most of which he sources from Redland and Homestead farms. For those craving what an experienced Argentine chef can cook in his sleep, the New York strip steak with chimichurri is top-notch, as is the red snapper with semi-dried tomatoes and marinated eggplant. The organic and seasonal theme extends to the wine list, where funky orange wines are featured next to more standard selections. The same goes for dessert, which Kairuz is also adept at making. He offers vegan choco- late avocado mousse next to richer, classic pies and cakes. Any way you look at it, there’s no wrong move to make at Mess — unless it’s to take your first impression at face value and not go at all. Mess Miami at the Alexander Hotel. 5225 Col- lins Ave., Miami Beach; 786-496-9568; mess- miami.com. Wednesday through Saturday 6 to 11 p.m., and Sunday 6 to 10 p.m. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Photo by Ricardo Mejía Buenos Aries-born chef-proprietor Facundo Kairuz moved to Miami from New York during the pandemic. The chef’s plate of marinated tomatoes, guava, and mixed herbs KAIRUZ HAS DEVELOPED A FASCINATION WITH LOCAL, SEASONAL, ORGANIC, AND HEALTH- CONSCIOUS CUISINE.
