15 DECEMBER 28-JANUARY 3, 2023 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | 2023: The Ten Biggest Food Stories BY MOLLY MARTIN For years, the Mile High’s dining scene has been getting better and better...and bigger and bigger. We reported nearly 300 new bars and restaurants in the metro area over the past twelve months — places that spanned cuisines, neighborhoods and price points. But as we dug into the ever-changing cu- linary landscape, other big stories and trends emerged. Here’s a rundown of the Denver food news that had an impact in 2023: The Pink Palace It seemed like every single person in Denver (and beyond) was seeing pink in 2023. The ownership saga of Casa Bonita dominated headlines in 2022, and going into the new year, expectations were high as the public was promised a May reopening of the renovated edition of this local landmark under its new owners, South Park creators Trey Parker and Matt Stone. We followed the growing fervor through- out the fi rst half of the year, as people cre- ated songs, poems and other odes in its honor. There was an auction for Casa Bonita- themed personalized license plates (we want to know who nabbed “Butters”). Cartoonist Karl Christian Krumpholz shared a visual history of the place in a Westword cover story, and later got hit with a trademark complaint for the Casa Bonita items he was selling in an Etsy shop. An unoffi cial Facebook group caused a stir when thousands of people joined and promised to line up outside the doors, though the kibosh was put on that plan when the actual opening strategy was revealed — after the May deadline. Instead of just swinging the doors open to everyone at once, which surely would have caused some chaos, Casa Bonita began sending out ticket links in June to people who signed up for its email list. And that’s still the way things are operating six months later. While it’s a frustrating process for those still waiting for their “golden ticket,” the strategy has defi nitely helped control the crowds, making the experience much more enjoyable for those heading in to visit. The Comebacks Casa Bonita wasn’t the only place to make a notable comeback this year. Beloved Japa- nese eatery Domo is once again serving guests after a two-year hiatus prompted by a viral TikTok that brought unwanted crowds to the intimate eatery run by a small staff. King of Wings was closed for over a year after a kitchen fire, but finally welcomed fans back in March despite battling many permitting delays in Wheat Ridge. Little Carmine’s, which had been shuttered since the pandemic, is serving sandwiches again. After messy allegations at El Rancho left its doors closed, restaurateur Frank Bonanno stepped in to reopen the place. A car that crashed into the front of Chula in Engle- wood shuttered the eat- ery shortly after owner Myrna Soltero Diaz re- branded the former 4G’s outpost, but two months later, she was able to get back to business. And though diner favorite Danny’s Car- nation was forced to shut down after a de- veloper bought the building, owner Danny Hopkins decided to resurrect it in a new, much larger location that he dubbed Danny Ray’s. So many customers came to support the business during its opening weekend in April, it had to pause to restock supplies. The Closures As the industry continues to struggle with rising costs and other challenges, many be- loved favorites were forced to close. Some, like Twin Dragon and El Tepehuan in Englewood, Piccolo, Blake Street Tavern, Sam’s No. 3 in Aurora, BookBar, Barry’s on Broadway, Truffl e Table and Bittersweet, had been open for a decade or more. Others, like City Bakery Cafe, Savory Vietnam, Bellota at the Source, Plates by the Pound and Goed Zuur, had shorter runs but still left a lot of fans hungry for another taste. And there were a handful of spots, like the Hard Rock Cafe on the 16th Street Mall, that won’t really be missed by locals. The Awards When the James Beard Awards an- nounced its winners in June, Colorado was completely shut out. At the time, lone local fi nalist chef Michael Diaz de Leon of Id Est Hospitality Group’s Brutø predicted that Michelin would soon make its way to the state. That same month, the tire company did indeed announce that its fi rst Colorado guide was coming. And when the full list of honorees was announced in September, Diaz de Leon was seeing stars: Brutø was one of fi ve restaurants in the state to earn one. While we’re certain that diners can ex- pect more additions to Michelin’s recom- mended, Bib Gourmand and starred lists in 2024, will Brutø retain its position? Diaz de Leon served his fi nal meal at the restaurant on December 17; he plans to spend time traveling and enjoying his family, with the goal of opening his own eatery in 2025. It has not been announced who will take the helm at Brutø. The New LoHi Around 2009, when Root Down opened in the Highland neighborhood, that part of town became the hottest dining destination. While it’s maintained its status as a prime place to eat and drink, other areas, like RiNo, have been getting much of the buzz in recent years. But 2023 — especially the last few months of it — brought a wave of new places in LoHi, including French bistro Jacques; Carrie Baird’s brunch spot, Fox and the Hen; Nana’s Dim Sum & Dumplings; Alma Fonda Fina, from chef Johnny Curiel; and a pair of Japanese eateries, Kumoya and Kawa Ni. The Larimer Square Shuffl e In December 2020, Larimer Square was sold to Asana Partners; we predicted a lot of changes for the historic block, and we saw plenty in 2023. Last New Year’s Eve marked the end of Green Russell and Russell’s Smokehouse, as well as Bistro Vendôme, though that eatery was able to move to a new location in Park Hill. This year, restaurateur Troy Guard shuttered the Larimer Square outpost of Bubu, and Ted’s Montana Grill closed after two decades. As construction continues, we’re watching closely to see what may be coming to Larimer Square in the future — and what else might say goodbye. The Asian Food Boom Yuan Wonton owner Penelope Wong was one of our people to watch in 2023. The owner of the popu- lar food truck went on to successfully open a brick-and-mortar version of her busi- ness — which shares a space with two other concepts, including Thuy by PKR. They’re just two of many AAPI- owned restaurants that debuted this year, several of which are helmed by first-gen- eration Asian Ameri- cans now pushing the scene in exciting new directions. Other ad- ditions, like the Coark Collective Food Hall in Centennial, have made it easier for those in the suburbs to access a va- riety of Asian fare. The ’Burbs With many local chefs and aspiring owners priced out of real estate in and close to down- town, some are opting to open in the suburbs instead. That’s a trend we noticed last year, and one that has only gotten more prominent since. Established businesses like Blue Pan, Denver Biscuit Company and the Cherry Cricket all opened locations outside of Denver this year, and spots like Oliver’s and Provolino opted for spaces south of town in shopping centers anchored by grocery stores because of the ample parking and affordable rent. The (Slow) Return of Late-Night Eats More than three years after bars and res- taurants were forced to close because of the pandemic, effectively taking out the nightlife scene — and late-night dining along with it — people are going out again, and restaurants want to feed them. Chefs like Dave Hadley, who just moved his Samosa Shop into Honor Farm, and the crew at Caddywampus, which serves out of Gold Point in RiNo, are primed to satisfy the cravings of those who are going out long after most other restaurants close up shop. The Losses This year, the city lost a number of peo- ple who were a formative part of building Denver’s dining scene into what it is today, including Table 6 owner Aaron Forman, longtime Vesta executive chef Matt Selby, and restaurateurs Mel and Janie Master, who were behind spots like Mel’s, Top Hat and Starfi sh, and who opted to pass peace- fully together at a voluntary assisted-dying association in Basel, Switzerland. The losses brought sorrow, but also moments of refl ec- tion and admiration for the contributions these individuals made. . CAFE FIND MORE FOOD & DRINK COVERAGE AT WESTWORD.COM/RESTAURANTS This year was all about Casa Bonita and the Michelin Guide. PHOTOS BY MOLLY MARTIN/COLL AGE BY CATIE CHESHIRE
