13 DECEMBER 21-27, 2023 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NEWS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | The Hot List THE TEN BEST NEW RESTAURANTS OF 2023. BY MOLLY MARTIN Dumplings, tacos, oysters and the next level of farm-to-table dining all play starring roles in this year’s most exciting additions to the dining scene. In 2023, a group of scrappy and innovative hospitality entrepreneurs moved into brick-and-mortar locations that allowed them to up their culinary games — and we’ve been loving every bite. The new standouts serve up diverse global fl avors, from modern spins on Eastern European fare to Peruvian infl uences to tastes from fi rst-generation Asian Americans paying homage to their past. This year also saw notable moves from some big names as they continue to push Denver dining to new heights. As a result of all this activity, it’s an exciting time to eat out, and we’ve got the proof. Here are the ten best restaurants to open in metro Denver in 2023: Farm and Market 2401 Larimer Street 303-927-6652 thefarmandmarket.com Brothers Austin and Davis Breedlove are behind this RiNo spot that opened in Sep- tember. The food itself is pretty straightfor- ward — a lineup of salads and soups ordered fast-casual style at a counter. But this is also a working, indoor vertical farm with an on-site market where you can stock up on herbs cut right in front of you and fl avorful greens in varieties you’d never fi nd at the grocery store. The meals served on site are as nutrient-rich as they are delicious, making for a nourishing dining experience that’s low-key enough to enjoy several times a week. Why we love it: Like Grow + Gather, which opened in Englewood in 2019, Farm and Market is reimagining farm-to-table dining in a way that is primed to have a big impact on how people in cities access fresh, sustain- able produce. Hey Kiddo 4337 Tennyson Street 720-778-2977 hk-oy.com The Id Est Hospitality Group is an in- dustry leader not just in Denver, but on a national scale — a fact that was solidifi ed when two of its restaurants, the Wolf’s Tailor and Brutø, earned one Michelin star each plus Michelin green stars for sustainability this year. But before that, in late January, the group added a new star of its own: Hey Kiddo and attached bar space Ok Yeah, where staples like K-Town Fried Chicken and oysters are served alongside rotating specials that keep the dining experience fun and full of surprises for guests. Why we love it: While most of Id Est’s concepts are more suited to a special occa- sion, this is a place where you can pop in on a weeknight to experience some of the most bold — and fun — food being served in the city without having to go into full tasting- menu mode. Kiké’s Red Tacos 1200 West 38th Avenue 720-397-0591 kikesredtacos.com The birria boom has started to level off, but when it was in full swing in 2021, En- rique “Kiké” Silva Figueroa and his family smartly launched a food truck specializing in not only slow-roasted beef tacos with consomé for dipping, but also birria ramen and burritos. It was a quick hit, drawing big crowds that have since followed the business to its permanent home, which debuted in May. Why we love it: Now that it has more kitchen space, Kiké’s has only gotten better, staying true to the dishes that made its truck so popular while also adding options like the more traditional goat meat, tortas, street fries and a full bar program. Kumoya 2400 West 32nd Avenue 303-862-6664 kumoyadenver.com The Culinary Creative Group is on one hell of a run, adding four impressive concepts in 2023 alone to its already suc- cessful lineup of hits like Bar Dough and A5 Steakhouse. While we fell for Cherry Creek cocktail bar Ay Papi, chef Carrie Baird’s brunch spot Fox and the Hen, and Detroit-style pizzeria Red Tops Rende- vous, it was the group’s fi nal opening of the year, Japanese eatery Kumoya, that fully stole our hearts, thanks to the passion of chef Corey Baker. He’s fi nally getting the chance to truly showcase his talent in both raw preparations and small plates that are anything but typical. Why we love it: The smartly designed space includes a room that’s ideal for private parties, a sushi counter where you can watch the culinary team up close, a lively dining room and an even more lively back room where you can belly up to Bar Kumo and indulge in late-night eats and drinks. Major Tom 2845 Larimer Street 303-848-9777 majortomdenver.com Two small houses in RiNo have been the site of some big culinary efforts since 2017, when chef Duncan Holmes and his partners debuted their fi rst concept, the daytime eatery Call. Beckon was added next door in 2018, and that tasting-menu-only restaurant earned its fi rst Michelin star this year. While Call had garnered national buzz during its run, it never reopened post-pandemic; in February, the team introduced Major Tom in its place. Why we love it: Its succinct, à la carte dinner menu gives diners the chance to experience the Beckon team’s talent with- out having to commit to a full (and pricey) tasting-menu experience. MAKfam 39 West First Avenue 720-769-2952 makfam.co In 2014, Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen started slinging Hong Kong French toast as a side hustle in New York City. After moving to Denver in 2019 with dreams of opening a concept inspired by their Cantonese up- bringing and heritage, they landed a spot at Avanti, successfully navigating Meta Asian Kitchen through the pandemic while con- sistently impressing diners with hits like Sichuan málà fried mozzarella sticks and dumplings with housemade XO sauce. This year, they “graduated,” as Yuen says, from the food hall, introducing the expanded version of their dream in the Baker neighborhood in November. Why we love it: From its unapologetic use of MSG to the photo on the wall of Yuen’s grandmother in a “cocaine and caviar” beanie, this spot is creating its own refresh- ingly bold narrative. Molotov Kitschen + Cocktails 3333 East Colfax Avenue 303-316-3333 molotovdenver.com From his work at the still-missed Rebel Restaurant to his cooking at Misfi t Snack Bar inside Middleman, chef Bo Porytko has been impressing Denver diners for years. But at Mo- lotov, which debuted in the former To the Wind space in January, his fare shines in a totally new way. While the dishes are rooted in Eastern European classics, Porytko’s playful creativity imbues each with unexpected elements. Why we love it: Every service here feels like a dinner party you CAFE continued on page 14 FIND MORE FOOD & DRINK COVERAGE AT WESTWORD.COM/RESTAURANTS Chef Bo Porytko pays homage to his Ukrainian heritage at Molotov. MOLOTOV KITSCHEN + COCKTAILS
