13 DECEMBER 18-24, 2025 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NEWS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | THE BAR/RESTAURANT MASH-UPS Rougarou 2844 Welton Street What happens when an award-winning bar team opens a new concept with a full kitchen? Very delicious things. In August, Yacht Club owners Mary Allison Wright and McLain Hedges opened Rougarou, a spot named for a shapeshifting swamp creature that pays hom- age to their Southern roots. Wright’s brother, John David Wright, is leading the kitchen, which is dishing out options that reimagine traditional Southern cuisine. Think pickled green tomatoes on a blue cheese tart, boiled peanuts with fermented collards and lime leaf, and hot and sour catfi sh. The drinks, not surprisingly, rival the bites. These are all winners, sipping libations like the muffalata- inspired martini and the surprisingly tropical, buttermilk-washed Champagne Killer. Malinche Audio Bar 1541 Platte Street La Diabla owner Jose Avila has been work- ing to expand his roster of spots in Denver, and this year added the undeniably cool Malinche. It’s part mezcal bar, where the spirit is poured from glass vessels traditionally used to age the spirit that hang above the bar, and a vibrant statue of Mayahuel, the goddess of mezcal, oversees the action. It’s also part audio bar in the spirit of Japanese kissas, but starring Alvia’s personal collection of vintage Mexican records. And the “nikkei” menu is a mashup of traditional Mexican fl avors combined with Japanese infl uence. don’t miss the tamalito de conejo with rabbit braised in black miso and pasilla mix, or the nicuatole, a dessert of nixtamal custard unexpectedly topped with salmon roe. CASUAL HITS Ma’s Kitchen Dim Sum & Noodles 1514 York Street The BRT construction project made tra- versing Colfax diffi cult this year, but even those ugly white bus-stop arches can’t stop this strip from shining in its typically tough fashion. Despite the challenges businesses in the area faced in 2025, a crop of new bars and restaurants have opened, and Ma’s Kitchen is a standout. It comes from the owners of Okinawa, who in October opened Ma’s Kitchen Dim Sum & Noodles in the former Tacos Tequila Whiskey space next door. Bringing dim sum to the neighborhood was a smart idea, espe- cially with dishes as tasty as some of the early favorites at this spot, including the Singapore butter prawns, braised pork ribs and pan-fried Cantonese daikon rice cakes with XO sauce. Mama Jo’s Chicken, Biscuits, BBQ 3525 East Colfax Avenue Another new favorite on Colfax is a dif- ferent kind of mother, Mama Jo’s, which started as a food truck before moving into the former Steve’s Snappin’ Dogs in February. Here, husband-and-wife duo Ben and Jodi Polson are churning out some damn good barbecue (don’t miss brisket Saturdays!), but our favorites are sides like the pimento mac and cheese (yes, you’ll get a damn impressive cheese pull) and Southern-style collards; the fried chicken, which you can enjoy as a sandwich — a boneless thigh on a biscuit or house-made bun — or get bone-in on Fridays; and Jodi’s desserts, especially the apple frit- ters with salted butterscotch dipping sauce. Molino Chido 2501 Dallas Street Mexican food in the metro area continues to evolve, thanks to the talents of chefs like Michael Diaz de Leon, who left Bruto in 2023, shortly after it earned its fi rst Michelin star. Now he’s got a place of his own with partner Tommy Lee, owner of hot spots Hop Alley and Uncle. Corn tortillas, which diners can watch being made, star at this Mexico City-inspired taco joint,where options like traditional al pastor, pavo (turkey), and len- gua made with bison tongue have already proven to be hits with diners. Riot BBQ 2180 South Delaware Street From the proverbial ashes of AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q, which closed amid allegations of bad business behavior by owner Jared Leon- ard, Riot BBQ has risen, and the city’s barbe- cue scene is better for it. This spot combines the knowledge of former AJ’s pitmaster and current Riot co-owner Patrick Klaiber, along with his passion for Texas-style smoked meats, with one-time James Beard nominee Manny Barella’s northern Mexican heritage. The result is a mouthwatering lineup that ranges from al pastor ribs and pibil-style smoked chicken marinated in achiote and citrus to vinegar-based slaw made with salsa macha and esquites-topped cornbread. Pro tip: Show up early for the best selection. Email the author at [email protected]. Dirty Martini Bucatini is on the menu at Boombots. HARD KNOCH PR
