9 DECEMBER 12-18, 2024 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NEWS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | south Denver marks the entrance to Pop- pie’s, where those in the know have been heading for classic American favorites and high-quality bar banter since 1985. Step in- side and let the staff — many of whom have worked there for years — do what they do best: make you feel at home while you dig into specialties like the can’t-miss prime rib and French dip. Potager 1109 Ogden Street 303-246-7073 potagerrestaurant.com Started by Teri Rippeto in 1997, this Capitol Hill eatery ushered in Denver’s obsession with farm-to-table eating. In early 2019, Potager was sold to Paul and Eileen Warthen and Nik Brand, who have stayed true to its spirit, carrying Rippeto’s commitment to connecting with local farmers and the com- munity. From the cozy dining room to the hidden back garden, there’s not a bad seat in the house, and one meal here will show why this eatery has claimed a special place in so many people’s hearts for over 25 years. Rioja 1431 Larimer Street 303-820-2282 riojadenver.com It’s been two decades since Beth Gruitch and chef Jennifer Jasinski opened Rioja, which has remained a staple in Larimer Square even as the area has gone through some big changes. In 2024, ahead of the anniversary of their fl agship eatery, the two reorganized their Crafted Concepts restaurant group to focus on their beloved “baby” and ensure that its Mediterranean-infl uenced fare continues to wow downtown diners for years to come. Silla 3005 South Peoria Street, Aurora 303-338-5070 sillabbq.com Located in an Aurora strip mall, Silla is the state’s oldest Korean restaurant. The place typically fi lls up with large families, but the service is fast and friendly. The main draw is the Korean barbecue, which sizzles on the cooktops that sit in the middle of each large booth, but there are many other items on the menu to explore, from bubbling bowls of soon tofu to bulgogi bowls, bibimbap and a variety of hot pot options including black goat, which is often available on special. Sushi Den 1487 South Pearl Street 303-777-0826 sushiden.net Denver has a longstanding love affair with sushi, thanks in large part to Sushi Den, the pristine house of Japanese seafood that brothers Yasu and Toshi Kizaki opened in 1984. As a testament to Sushi Den’s status, chefs at just about every other revered sushi restaurant in town have spent time working here. Rather than resting on reputation, though, Sushi Den stays at the top with its commitment to sourcing the freshest seafood available, often directly from the markets in Japan. Its private chef’s counter is one of the best dining experiences in town, and offers even more insight into what makes this spot special. Table 6 609 Corona Street 303-831-8800 table6denver.com There have been many changes at Table 6 since the cozy eatery opened in 2004, and the latest came in 2023, when owner Aaron Forman passed away. The neighborhood favorite is now in the very capable hands of general manager Amanda Davis and chef Aniedra Nichols, who became its owners in June of that year. The menu continues to highlight fun twists on American com- fort food, served in a space that feels as comfortable as someone’s well-decorated, well-lived-in, well-loved home. Taste of Thailand 2120 South Broadway 303-762-9112 tasteofthailand.net Taste of Thailand was one of metro Denver’s fi rst Thai restaurants when it opened in Englewood in 1994, and since its move to South Broadway in 2015, it’s remained one of the best. Chef/owner Noy Farrell visits her home country regularly, touring Thailand on the hunt for new fl avors and trends. Light and vibrant salads share space on the menu with blazing-hot preparations and complex soups — all with the fresh fl avors of Farrell’s kitchen garden. Welton Street Cafe 2883 Welton Street 303-296-6602 weltonstreetcafe.com For over two decades, the Dickerson family has kept the catfi sh, fried chicken, smoth- ered pork chops and other soul-food spe- cialties coming for hungry diners in Five Points — though it’s moved a few times since opening. In 2022, it shuttered its longtime home with plans to move into a new space. That process took longer than expected, but with the community’s sup- port, it’s now back in full force — and has a new addition: a full bar. SPLURGE-WORTHY HOT SPOTS The eateries where you should go all in. A5 Steakhouse 1600 15th Street 303-623-0534 a5denver.com Denver was long thought of as a cowtown, and the steakhouse was central to the cuisine. While many old-school steakhouses are still slinging meat, A5, which opened in 2021, stands out as a modern, lively take on the classic concept. We love this spot for more than just the steaks (though those are excel- lent). You’re also here for seafood towers, beef tartare in the form of a katsu sandwich with quail egg, rack of lamb, Japanese milk bread rolls and more, not to mention the upbeat energy that makes it pretty tempt- ing to order a second — or third — martini. Annette 2501 Dallas Street, Aurora 720-710-9975 annettescratchtotable.com In 2022, Annette chef-owner Caroline Glover became Aurora’s fi rst James Beard Award winner, fi ve years after she opened her fi rst solo venture. During its run, this Stanley Marketplace anchor has only got- ten better as Glover plays with seasonal ingredients to keep things fresh while also revisiting past favorites from time to time. The beef tongue remains a staple, the happy- hour steak frites are swoon-worthy, and we always save room for whatever dessert the kitchen is dishing out — especially if it’s a Paris-Brest pastry. Beckon 2843 Larimer Street 303-749-0020 beckon-denver.com When Beckon opened in 2018, it was the city’s fi rst chef’s-counter restaurant. Now, more and more high-end tasting-menu op- tions are available, but Beckon continues to stand out with a menu created by chef Dun- can Holmes and his team that changes quar- terly, an approach inspired by the Earth’s connection to the moon. Tucked off busy Larimer Street, this is an intimate dining experience that earned the Beckon team its fi rst Michelin star in 2023. Brasserie Brixton 3701 Williams Street 303-593-0951 brasseriebrixton.com French-ish and 100 percent fun, Brasserie Brixton could be your neighborhood hang, but it’s also the kind of place where going big comes with big rewards. Housed in a building that’s over 130 years old and once held a neighborhood market, it’s got an innate charm that’s matched by a menu full of familiar temptations, such as French onion soup and pâté, and more surprising bites, including blood sausage wontons with tamari vinaigrette and chili crisp. Pair all of it with natural wines, cocktails, beer or sake. Bruto 1801 Blake Street 720-325-2195 brutodenver.com This Dairy Block spot from the award- winning Id Est Hospitality group has been through several iterations since it opened in 2019. It earned a Michelin star in 2023 under chef Michael Diaz de Leon, and retained that status in 2024 under chef Byron Gomez, who offi cially took the reins in March and has been working to make the concept his own, with a tasting menu that explores the idea of brutalism. Expect the unexpected, from ingredients to plating, at this spot that puts sustainability at the forefront of fi ne dining. Hop Alley 3500 Larimer Street 720-379-8340 hopalleydenver.com It’s been nearly a decade since chef Tommy Lee made a splash in RiNo with the opening of Hop Alley, but dining here still feels as fresh and fun as it did when the place was a buzzy new addition. Some things have stayed the same: The bone marrow fried rice and la ji zi loaded with mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns and chiles are still favorites, and the hip-hop playlist makes for a high-energy ambience. But Lee has made some smart changes, too, including an expansion that added more space for regular service and private events plus — the best part — a chef’s counter that serves a completely separate menu, allowing the staff to fl ex its creativity in new ways. Kumoya 2400 West 32nd Avenue 303-862-6664 kumoyadenver.com Corey Baker has had a two-decade-long career in some of Denver’s most renowned sushi spots, so when he teamed up with chef Max MacKissock and the Culinary Creative Group in 2023 to open a new spot in LoHi, the bar was high. What this team has de- livered is a place that continued on page 10 Mexico City Lounge has been a downtown favorite for decades. MOLLY MARTIN
