8 DECEMBER 12-18, 2024 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | NEWS | LETTERS | CONTENTS | with its surprising desserts and cocktails — are not to be missed. THE CLASSICS Dining favorites that have stood the test of time (open fi fteen years or longer). Angelo’s Taverna 620 East Sixth Avenue 303-744-3366 angelostaverna.com Angelo’s Taverna bills itself as Denver’s original pizza and oyster bar — and since it’s been serving central Denver since the Nixon administration, it’s safe to say that it’s the longest-running restaurant of its ilk, though it’s now on its second owners (who opened a second outpost in Littleton). Even if you love oysters raw, Angelo’s makes a compel- ling argument for a chargrilled preparation, dressing them up with garlic butter, bacon and Gorgonzola or chipotle bourbon but- ter. There’s also a stacked lineup of Italian fare, but whatever you order, don’t skip the housemade limoncello. Barolo Grill 3030 East Sixth Avenue 303-393-1040 barologrilldenver.com Since 1992, Barolo Grill has served upscale Northern Italian fare in Cherry Creek with charm and sophistication — and a gener- ous amount of vintage wine. Ryan Fletter, who worked there for nearly as long as it’s been open, took over from Blair Taylor as owner in 2015 and quickly installed execu- tive chef Darrel Truett in the kitchen, where he continues to oversee upscale favorites available either à la carte or as a four-course tasting menu. Fletter has also continued the tradition of taking the staff on annual trips to Italy, and Barolo’s truffl e dinner remains one of Denver’s most indulgent culinary nights of the year. Bastien’s Restaurant 3503 East Colfax Avenue 303-322-0363 bastiensrestaurant.com With its iconic sign, sunken bar and mid- century aesthetic, Bastien’s is a holdover from times past — and we wouldn’t have it any other way. The family-run business dates back to the 1930s, but the current restaurant was constructed from scratch in 1958. That sign outside the Googie-style building touts the famed Bastien’s sugar steak, but there are many other preparations to choose from. And whether or not you splurge on a full steak dinner, nothing beats sipping Colfax dirty martinis delivered by friendly servers who’ve been working at this classic for years. Columbine Steak House & Lounge 300 Federal Boulevard 303-936-9110 columbinesteakhouseandlounge.com An image of a steak and a martini glass tops the bright-yellow sign on Federal Boule- vard where Columbine Steak House has been serving up cuts of beef, burgers and fries since 1961. And not much has changed since then at this no-frills joint. Guests opting to sit in the main dining room order at the counter, where you specify what cut you want and how you like it cooked before your steak is kissed by fl ames and served with a simple side salad, Texas toast and a baked potato. There’s also a lounge side with full service where you can settle in with a strong drink. Whatever you do, leave the coat and tie at home…and don’t forget to bring cash. Crown Burgers 2192 South Colorado Boulevard 303-753-9696 crownburgers.org The casual, kitschy Crown Burgers has been around since 1987, when George Brokalakis opened the place with the same name and menu as a small chain founded in Salt Lake City, where he lived before moving to the Mile High. But this place is pure Denver: Both inside the dining room and from the drive-thru window, the local fast-food insti- tution serves burgers, yes, but also fi ve-egg omelets, breakfast burritos with green chile, tuna melts and baklava. For a pure taste of nostalgia, the Junior cheeseburger does the job, but at the opposite end, there’s the Royal, stacked with pastrami in addition to all the standard burger toppings. Call yourself the king if you can handle this one. Domo 1365 Osage Street 303-595-3666 domorestaurant.com Gaku Homma opened his homestyle Japa- nese restaurant with an unlikely farmhouse setting, complete with a Japanese garden, in an urban neighborhood in 1996. It had a loyal legion of fans for years, but a viral TikTok video nearly led to its demise after crowds descended on the typically quiet space. After taking some time off to concentrate on his nonprofit, Homma brought Domo back, and it’s as charming as ever. Dining here is a Zen-like experience, so don’t come when you’re in a rush.Save this spot for the times you’re ready to linger over comforting don- buri bowls, ramen, Japanese curry and more. El Taco de Mexico 714 Santa Fe Drive 303-623-3926 Perhaps no Mexican spot in the Mile High is as beloved as El Taco de Mexico, an unassuming joint that offers little in the way of ambience and even less in the way of service. But that hasn’t deterred the crowds that have been coming here since 1985 for tasty tacos and anything smoth- ered in the lip-tingling green chile. In 2020, El Taco was honored by the James Beard Foundation as one of America’s Classics, a well-deserved honor. Frasca Food and Wine 1738 Pearl Street, Boulder 303-442-6966 frascafoodandwine.com Twenty years ago, master sommelier Bobby Stuckey and chef Lachlan Mack- innon-Patterson created a restaurant that elevated the dining scene not only in Boulder, but across the state. Frasca is a truly special place that’s earned many accolades over the years, including its fi rst Michelin star in 2023. During its run, doz- ens of notable names in fi ne dining have made guest appearances in the kitchen, but what really sets this restaurant apart is its steadfast focus on sharing the food, wine and hospitality of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy. Jax Fish House 1539 17th Street 303-292-5767 jaxfi shhouse.com It’s been three decades since restaurateur Dave Query launched the first Jax Fish House in Boulder, proving that people in landlocked Colorado are hungry for fresh seafood — which we have easy access to thanks to DIA’s role as a hub for shipments from both U.S. coasts and beyond. The down- town Denver outpost opened in 1995, and another in Glendale was added in 2013. Start with raw, grilled or fried oysters, then focus on sustainably caught fi sh and other seafood rounded up by culinary director Sheila Lucero. La Loma 1801 Broadway 303-433-8300 lalomamexican.com In the ’80s, the Brinkerhoff family created a Den-Mex institution in north Denver, so fans despaired when they sold its original digs in Jefferson Park. But it quickly reopened in a new space in 2016 in another iconic spot — the moody former home of Trinity Grille — and the owners have worked hard to make sure that the food remains as tasty as ever. We like to start with an order of the mini chile rellenos — basically cheddar-cheese egg rolls that you dunk in this restaurant’s iconic green — and margaritas served in glasses the size of fi sh bowls. Lao Wang Noodle House 945 South Federal Boulevard 303-975-2497 laowangnoodlehouse.com Originally from Taiwan, Chung-Ming and Tse-Ming Wang opened Lao Wang 25 years ago. Together, the couple ran a tight ship at the small spot that has some well-known ground rules (namely, no second orders, no split checks and no seating yourself). In 2021, Tse-Ming passed away at the age of 76, but Chung-Ming hasn’t slowed down. With the help of her son and his partner, Lao Wang has continued to serve its concise menu of home- style Taiwanese fare, including its famed pan- seared potstickers and soup dumplings, often cooked and served by Chung-Ming herself. Mexico City Restaurant & Lounge 2115 Larimer Street 303-296-0563 ilovemexicocitytacos.com Founded by Willie and Esther Garcia in the 1960s, Mexico City Lounge has been a family-owned staple for decades. It hasn’t changed much in that time, with the excep- tion of a slight facelift in 2012, though the area around it sure has…and the ownership has moved down a couple of generations. But despite the evolution of the Ballpark neigh- borhood, Mexico City remains a down-home cantina full of guaranteed good food and good times — and its famous, must-try fried tacos made with melty American cheese. (Don’t question it, just dive in.) Pete’s Kitchen 1962 East Colfax Avenue 303-321-3139 petesrestaurants.com/petes-kitchen/visit While the diner scene has dwindled in Denver in recent years, the pancake-fl ipping neon chef above Pete’s Kitchen remains a beacon on East Colfax for those who need to sate their hunger in the darkest hours of the night — on weekends, at least, when the eatery keeps the grill hot all day and overnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Owned by the Contos family since 1988 — and bearing the name of patriarch Pete Contos, who passed away in 2019 — Pete’s satisfi es like no other, whether you’re here for a gyros omelet, a burrito smothered in green chile, or just a burger and fries. Poppies 2334 South Colorado Boulevard 303-756-1268 poppiesdenver.com A red awning over a strip-mall space in Eat Here continued from page 6 Domo’s specialty is Japanese comfort food. MOLLY MARTIN
