10 DECEMBER 12-18, 2024 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | NEWS | LETTERS | CONTENTS | should be on every sushi lover’s must-dine list. Sourcing the best ingredients is of the utmost importance to Baker, and it shows in everything from the sashimi and nigiri to the expertly balanced rolls and small plates. Bonus: It’s attached to Bar Kumo, a connected space that can get a little rowdy (in a good way) after dark and offers snacks until midnight. Molotov Kitschen 3333 East Colfax Avenue 303-316-3333 molotovdenver.com Chef-owner Bo Porytko (of Misfi t Snackbar and the late, lamented Rebel Restaurant) always wanted to open an Eastern European concept rooted in Ukrainian fare, a nod to his heritage. That came to fruition in early 2023, when the kitschy Molotov opened in a cozy City Park spot. Unlike the often- surprising food at Rebel and Misfi t, Porytko is sticking closer to traditional fl avors and presentations, with hearty entrees and ro- tating dumplings offering a far more refi ned take on the chef’s particular brand of chaos, which still feels fun and fresh while deftly honoring a culture and cuisine with deep roots. Budmo! Noisette 3254 Navajo Street 720-769-8103 noisettedenver.com Noisette opened in 2022 in a revamped res- taurant space that’s distractingly elegant — though not in a stiff, white-tablecloth kind of way. The white decor with pops of pastel and a mix of modern and vintage is inviting and transportive. Small vases of fl owers on each table add a romantic touch, as do the mismatched fl atware and fl oral antique plates. The menu is a slightly upscale take on cuisine bourgeoise, or French home cooking, and a tempting brunch has proved a welcome addition. Noisette’s delectable sweets are not to be missed, nor is the lineup of sweet and savory bites from its attached daytime bakery that now doubles as a wine bar at night. Olivia 290 South Downing Street 303-999-0395 oliviadenver.com Pasta is at the heart of this Italian restaurant that opened in 2020. The dough master is chef Ty Leon, but what really sets Olivia apart is the symphony of teamwork that makes every aspect of dining here sing, from the skilled front-of-house crew led by Heather Morrison to the exceptional beverage pro- gram headed by Austin Carson. In 2023, the restaurant unveiled an expanded space where it can host educational programming and other events, including pasta-making classes. The Plimoth 2335 East 28th Avenue 303-297-1215 theplimoth.com Denver clearly has a love for tiny neigh- borhood eateries that turn out meals on par with those served by the big boys downtown. Under chef/owner Peter Ryan, the Plimoth has captured the hearts of both City Park residents and those will- ing to take a drive into unfamiliar terri- tory. Classic European technique, local ingredients and regional inspiration give guests something new to look forward to with each order. While you could pop in for just one or two dishes, this is one of those spots where it’s even more rewarding to settle in for a lingering meal as you enjoy the bounty of the season. The Regular 1432 Market Street 303-955-1557 theregulardenver.com This moody fi ne-dining restaurant opened in July 2023 in LoDo under the guidance of Syd Younggreen and her husband, chef Brian de Souza, who previously operated a private dining series called the Guest out of their home. While the Guest made a brief comeback as a tasting-menu concept inside the Regular, that space is now being used for private events, and the focus is back on à la carte dinner, which is stronger than ever. Expect eye-catching, modern platings, touches inspired by de Souza’s Peruvian heritage and one of the strongest restaurant beverage programs in town. Safta 3330 Brighton Boulevard 720-408-2444 eatwithsafta.com Inside the Source Hotel in RiNo, chef/res- taurateur Alon Shaya has created a destina- tion for Mediterranean cuisine inspired by his grandmother’s recipes and the cuisine of Israel, where he was born. The wood- fi red pita is unbeatable, and the hummus is impossibly smooth; start there, but order liberally, as it’s nearly impossible to make a bad choice. And if you’re going to splurge on brunch anywhere in town, make it the weekend sprawling buffet here. Sap Sua 2550 East Colfax Avenue 303-736-2303 sapsua.com Since opening in the summer of 2023, Ni and Anna Nguyen’s Sap Sua has landed on national lists and made a big splash locally for its non-traditional take on Vietnamese food in- spired by Ni’s upbringing as a fi rst-generation Vietnamese-American and Anna’s experi- ence falling in love with her husband and the cuisine he grew up eating while both were in culinary school. On the menu, traditional names of dishes are listed in quotations before the description of the team’s take on those fl avors, which is often comforting even for din- ers who are less familiar with the ingredients. Stone Cellar Bistro 7605 Grandview Avenue, Arvada 720-630-7908 stonecellarbistro.com Longtime pals Jordan Alley and Husk alum Brandon Kerr opened Stone Cellar Bistro in 2022, upping the culinary game in this sub- urb to a whole new level. Whether serving inventive foie gras preparations or showing off a mastery of fried chicken, the dishes here offer a wide range of fl avor combina- tions that work together to create an upscale experience. And it fi ts seamlessly into Olde Town Arvada’s small-town vibes, thanks to a close-knit team with the skills to make every diner feel like an old friend. Tavernetta 1889 16th Street 720-605-1889 tavernettadenver.com It’s been more than seven years since the talented team behind Boulder’s Frasca added its fi rst (but not last) restaurant in the Denver metro area, but this Union Station spot for Italian fare often feels like it’s been around much longer than that. A more boisterous and lively experience than Frasca’s subdued elegance, it excels at making any dining occasion feel special. A seat near the open dining room gives a glimpse into the expertly choreographed dance that keeps the kitchen going nightly, but one of our favorite ways to experience Tavernetta is at the bar during happy hour, when you can casually nosh on small bites while sipping bubbles in a cozy lounge area. Uchi 2500 Lawrence Street 303-444-1922 uchi.uchirestaurants.com Austin-based chef and restaurateur Tyson Cole brought his hit spin on a Japanese sushi house to Denver’s RiNo neighborhood in 2018, and at the time, there was some skepti- cism about an out-of-state concept trying to replicate success in the Mile High. But Uchi Denver has proven to be a powerhouse in its own right, where you can walk in with a budget in mind and let the staff take you on a fl avor expedition that’s never short on surprises. Wildfl ower 3638 Navajo Street 720-706-6615 lifehousehotels.com/hotels/denver/lower- highlands/restaurant/wildfl ower Chef Aiden Tibbetts was just 22 years old when he helped open this restaurant inside LoHi’s Life House hotel in 2020. In the years since, he’s settled into his role leading the kitchen, creating impressive dishes — often using fl owers and produce from his mother’s garden — that manage to evoke the whimsical spirit of the delicately decorated space without feeling forced, and that taste downright delicious. The Wolf’s Tailor 4058 Tejon Street 720-456-6705 thewolfstailor.com A zero-waste mission with an emphasis on grain drives this Michelin-starred tasting- menu restaurant from Kelly Whitaker’s Id Est Hospitality group, which includes its own milling operation, Dry Storage. In the fall and winter, the menu is spurred by a focus on fer- mentation and other preservation methods inspired by centuries-old techniques from around the world, while fresh, local produce is the highlight in the spring and summer. But no matter when you go, expect visually stunning dishes rooted in a larger purpose of strengthening local food systems. Yuan Wonton 2878 Fairfax Street 303-320-5642 exploretock.com/yuan-wonton Hungry diners in Denver fell hard for Pe- nelope Wong’s take on Asian comfort foods including, yes, plenty of wontons and other dumplings, when she operated a food truck for several years, including through the pan- demic. Since moving into a brick-and-mortar space in Park Hill, Wong and her team have pivoted to mainly lunch and happy hour service while continuing to dish up an ever- rotating selection of fi rst-generation Canto- American creations — and it’s always worth ordering as many dishes as possible. Yuan Wonton also hosts monthly Chifa Night pop- ups with Chinese-Peruvian dishes from chef Carolina Zubiate. Eat Here continued from page 9 Wildfl ower is dishing out some impressive cuisine. MOLLY MARTIN continued on page 12
