20 DECEMBER 8-14, 2022 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Noisette 3254 Navajo Street 720-769-8103 noisettedenver.com Noisette opened in August 2022 in a revamped restaurant space that’s distractingly elegant — though not in a stiff, white-tablecloth kind of way. The white decor with pops of pastel and a mix of modern and vintage is invit- ing and transportive. Small vases of fl owers on each table add a romantic touch, as do the mismatched fl atware and fl oral antique plates. The menu is a slightly upscale take on cuisine bourgeoise, or French home cooking, with entrees like braised beef shank and crispy duck breast. But be sure to save room for the decadent, show-stopping desserts. Noodles Express 703 South Colorado Boulevard 303-736-8818 While there’s a section on the Noodles Ex- press menu called “America’s Popular,” that’s the least interesting part of this counter- service joint, which opened in February 2020. The bulk of the menu is a long list of Szechuan selections, and that’s where your focus should be. Many of these dishes are heavy on mouth- numbing Szechuan peppercorns and chiles, providing proteins from chong qing chicken to spicy boiled fi sh with an addictive kick. Be sure to come with a crowd, since every dish is large enough to share. Nurture 2949 Federal Boulevard 303-390-1252 visitnurture.com Nurture is a “wellness marketplace” that opened in May 2020 in a former elementary school. It houses around sixty businesses centered on the theme of self-care, but you can also simply stop by for the concept’s food offerings, which include Nest Cafe by day and Rewild by night. While Nest features pastries, fresh-pressed juices, coffee and larger plates like dosas and tartines on thick slices of bread, Rewild serves up a more refi ned selection of dishes that are veggie-heavy, but full of unexpected fl avors and textures that elevate them way beyond the average bowl of greens. Oak at Fourteenth 1400 Pearl Street, Boulder 303-444-3622 oakatfourteenth.com Bryan Dayton and Steve Redzikowski opened Oak at Fourteenth in 2011 and almost im- mediately suffered a three-month closure because of a fi re. But in the decade since, Oak has grown to the top of Boulder’s dining scene. Today the kitchen is helmed by executive chef John Bissell, who comes with an impressive résumé; at Oak, he shows off his penchant for a seasonal approach, with a menu of wood- fi red foods inspired by the many cultures that make up American cuisine. Ohana Island Kitchen 2563 15th Street 303-718-6580 ohanadenver.com Louie and Regan Colburn launched Denver’s poke craze when they opened Ohana Island Kitchen in the back of the Truffl e Table in 2016. Their tuna found so many fans that they couldn’t handle them all; fortunately, they landed a lease for a sunny space across the street. While the craze has since slowed, Ohana’s classic renditions of poke (read: not drowning in toppings) and small menu of other Hawaiian staples like spam musubi and kalua pork take it beyond trendy. Olivia 290 South Downing Street 303-999-0395 oliviadenver.com The fi nest restaurants make you feel as if you’re the only one who matters, and that’s how Ty Leon, Heather Morrison and Austin Carson treat diners at Olivia, which opened in January 2020. While Leon is in the kitchen folding pasta into intricate shapes for your wonder and amusement, Carson is mixing a cocktail just right for your tastes, and Mor- rison is gliding between tables to check on your every need. Fine dining is a rare treat for most of us, and we want our dining dol- lars to be well spent. Olivia makes sure that happens every time. Pete’s Kitchen 1962 East Colfax Avenue 303-321-3139 petesrestaurants.com/petes-kitchen Unassuming, comfortable, reliable. Though hardly the most sophisticated table in town, Pete’s Kitchen has been so- bering up late-night revelers for decades. The crown jewel of the late Pete Contos’s restaurant empire — which includes the Satire Lounge next door — Pete’s Kitchen serves up breakfast staples that can soak up turpentine, as well as solid diner fare, much of which pays homage to Contos’s home country of Greece. It’s only open 24 hours on weekends these days, but Pete’s remains a Denver classic. Pit Fiend Barbecue 2826 Larimer Street 303-955-7810 pitfi endbbq.com There was much wailing and gnashing of teeth among Denver’s barbecue faithful when pitmaster Karl Fallenius closed Owlbear, his much-loved Five Points smokehouse, in Janu- ary 2022. But a trio of his former employees took over the spot and reopened it as Pit Fiend Barbecue, with a broader focus than the Southern-style smoking in which Fallenius specialized. While Owlbear’s Texas-style brisket and legendary mac and cheese remain on the menu, the new pitmasters have mixed things up, experimenting with barbecue tradi- tions from around the world. The Plimoth 2335 East 28th Avenue 303-297-1215 theplimoth.com Denver clearly has a love for tiny neighbor- hood eateries that turn out meals on par with those served by the big boys down- town. Under chef/owner Peter Ryan, the Plimoth captured the hearts of both City Park residents and those willing to take a drive into unfamiliar territory. Classic European technique, local ingredients and regional inspiration give guests something new to look forward to every visit. Point Easy 2000 East 28th Avenue 303-233-5656 pointeasydenver.com When Point Easy opened in June 2022, the bright and airy space was hardly recogniz- able to those familiar with the former occu- pant, the Whittier Pub, a dark neighborhood bar. Though one of its three co-owners, Denn Phelps, passed away just three months after the eatery debuted, the creative and seasonal fare, funky and experimental cocktail offer- ings and commitment to welcoming, friendly service are a testament to his legacy, carried on by his friends and colleagues. Poppie’s Restaurant 2334 South Colorado Boulevard 303-756-1268 poppiesdenver.com Tucked into a quiet strip mall, Poppie’s is the kind of place that’s easy to overlook. But since 1985, it’s been a neighborhood go-to. Sure, the clientele skews older, but customers here are also wiser, as they fl ock in for specialties like the prime rib and braised baby back ribs. The red covers on the windows make it impossible to know how light or dark it is outside, so it’s far too easy to order one more martini from the friendly, no-nonsense staff. Potager 1109 Ogden Street 303-246-7073 potagerrestaurant.com Capitol Hill neighbors who’d frequented Potager since it opened in 1997 were worried when founder Teri Rippeto sold it in early 2019. But their fears have been allayed by the restaurant’s continued dedication to locally sourced, seasonally driven fare under current owners Paul and Eileen Warthen and Nik Brand. Potager was a bellwether for a style of cuisine that’s become almost cliché, but few new restaurants are as good or as devoted to simple, honest cooking with premium ingredients, and the back garden may be the most peaceful place in Denver to enjoy a meal. Redeemer Pizza 2705 Larimer Street 720-780-1379 redeemerpizza.com With a slice window in the back and full- service dining in the front, you can opt for a quick bite or a longer meal at this pizza place from the team behind pasta favorite Dio Mio. Offering both New York and Sicilian-style pies made on naturally leavened sourdough crust and a menu of small plates and appetizers, Redeemer has the feel of a neighborhood joint — along with some of the best slices in the city. Reggae Pot 7562 South University Boulevard, Centennial 303-997-5623 reggaepotjamaicangrill.com The interior of this Centennial strip-mall spot, which opened in May 2021, transports you to the Caribbean, with prominent pops of green, yellow and black. A huge timeline on the wall highlights the rise of reggae music, with nods to famous Jamaican singers. The menu’s top sellers are golden patties (which come in several varieties and are also avail- able frozen) and the oxtail; Reggae Pot’s version is slow-roasted in brown sauce with potatoes, carrots, butter beans and spices. Other standouts are the goat curry and Ja- maica’s national dish, ackee and saltfi sh. Roaming Buffalo Bar-B-Que 2387 South Downing Street 303-722-2226 roamingbuffalobbq.com While many local barbecue joints special- ize in Texas-style ’cue, Roaming Buffalo’s is based fi rmly in Colo- Potager was a farm-to-table pioneer. MOLLY MARTIN Eat Here continued from page 18 continued on page 22