16 DECEMBER 8-14, 2022 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Corrida 1023 Walnut Street, Boulder 303-444-1333 corridaboulder.com This Spanish-style eatery is known as much for its killer rooftop views of the Flatirons as its stellar food and drink. In 2021, the restaurant partnered with the Savory Institute’s Land to Market regenerative agriculture program, through which it sources sustainably raised beef for its steak-focused menu; that’s rounded out by a vast array of tapas and pintxos to keep nibblers happy. Outstanding gin tonics, an impressive wine list and a surprising selection of vermouth by the glass make this an ideal place to relax over sips and snacks, or go all out for a truly indulgent dining experience. Cuba Cuba Cafe & Bar 1173 Delaware Street 303-605-2822 cubacubacafe.com Kristy Socarras Bigelow, who opened Cuba Cuba in the heart of the Golden Triangle in 2001, is a poster child for the American Dream. A Cuban-American from Miami whose family didn’t allow her to go to college and who had little restaurant experience, she decided to create a Cuban-infl uenced eatery in two little conjoined Victorian houses. So- carras Bigelow has since opened several fast- casual spinoffs, but the original still charms with its tiny but friendly bar that specializes in mojitos and a fabulous shaded patio. Denver Central Market 2669 Larimer Street denvercentralmarket.com From your morning coffee run to lunch meetings on the patio and evening cocktails at Curio Bar, this circa 2016 food hall is an all- day destination for all things delicious in the heart of RiNo. Its eleven vendors sell every- thing from pizza, raw oysters and charcuterie boards to ice cream and gourmet chocolate — but this isn’t just a place for dining in. The vendors here also offer baked goods, meats, specialty foods and pantry items for home use so that you can pick up dinner essentials while grabbing lunch items to go. Efrain’s of Boulder 2480 Canyon Boulevard, Boulder 303-440-4045 efrainsofboulder.com The original Efrain’s opened in Lafayette over three decades ago, but its namesake owner now operates only the Boulder out- post, which moved in May 2022 from its longtime home in south Boulder to a space near McGuckin Hardware. While the restau- rant might have new digs, the pork-studded green chile remains as fi ery as ever, and the sweet-and-sour house margarita is still a must-order alongside any of the dishes, from hefty burritos to customizable combos. El Taco de Mexico 714 Santa Fe Drive 303-623-3926 facebook.com/eltacodemexicodenver Perhaps no Mexican spot in the Mile High is as beloved as El Taco de Mexico, a no-frills joint that offers little in the way of ambience and even less in the way of service. But that hasn’t deterred the crowds that have been coming here since 1985 for tasty tacos and anything smothered in the lip-tingling green chile. In 2020, El Taco was honored by the James Beard Foundation as one of America’s Classics, a well-deserved honor. Famous Original J’s 715 East 26th Avenue 720-420-9102 famousoriginaljs.com Joshua Pollack, a New Jersey native, has been on a mission to bring a taste of the East Coast to Denver since opening his fi rst Rosenberg’s Bagels location in 2014. With Famous Original J’s at the 715 Club, he’s given the city a slice window of the highest quality. Yes, you can get whole pies here (both regular and gluten- free), but nothing beats standing under the neon glow of the red “pizza” sign with a cocktail in one hand and a paper plate in the other as you scarf down a hot slice. Farmhouse Thai 98 Wadsworth Boulevard, Lakewood 303-237-2475 farmhousethaieatery.com Freshness and balance are the keys to great Thai cuisine, and this Lakewood kitchen, which opened in 2019, serves up both, whether in seasonal salads, rich curries and soups (don’t miss the incendiary khao soi) or enlivened clas- sics, from the fl oating market noodle soup to the sublimely porky hang le curry. Everything is made from scratch and loaded with the fl a- vors of galangal, lemongrass, garlic, tamarind, chiles and other Southeast Asian spices. Fish N Beer 3510 Larimer Street 303-248-3497 fi shnbeerdenver.com Bigger may be better for certain things, but smaller and louder are no-brainers when it comes to instant ambience — and Fish N Beer, from Kevin Morrison of Tacos, Tequila, Whiskey fame, has it in spades. The kitchen hums with confi dent precision; grab a seat in front of the wood-fi red grill and watch as oysters and other wood-fi red entrees are prepared with skill. Frasca Food and Wine 1738 Pearl Street, Boulder 303-442-6966 frascafoodandwine.com The word “hospitality” seems practically invented to describe the experience at Frasca, which won the Outstanding Service award from the James Beard Foundation in 2019. Of course, the food and wine are also worthy of the restaurant’s international reputation, mak- ing Frasca not only a top Italian restaurant, but one of the best restaurants in any category in Colorado. Book a table at Frasca for beauti- fully composed plates, perfectly paced tasting menus, and stellar wine service from Master Sommelier and co-owner Bobby Stuckey. Gaetano’s 3760 Tejon Street 303-455-9852 gaetanositalian.com Most of the red-sauce joints that once prolifer- ated in northwest Denver have dried up, but Gaetano’s is now more than seventy years old. Of course, it’s gone through some changes over the decades after being founded by the Smaldone mob family, who installed bullet- proof glass in the front door and ran illegal poker games in the basement. Gaetano’s is now run by Ron Robinson as a true neighbor- hood joint, one fl avored by the traditions of the past but still very much ready to go another seventy years as a Denver landmark. Ginger Pig 4262 Lowell Boulevard 720-324-8416 gingerpig.com With no background in the food industry, Natascha Hess started Ginger Pig as a food truck with the guidance of her mentor, Top Chef contestant Carrie Baird. In 2020, Hess opened a brick- and-mortar location, where she cooks food inspired by her time living in China and explores the cuisines of other Asian countries; a Boulder location is in the works for 2023. The dishes are best shared with a group so that you can taste a variety of delights. Glo Noodle House 4450 West 38th Avenue 303-993-4180 glonoodlehouse.com This playful, noodle-centric eatery from chef/owner Chris Teigland and his wife, Ariana, debuted in March 2022 and made a big fi rst impression thanks to its mastery of big fl avors, from miso bacon ramen with a broth that takes 48 hours to prepare to super- crisp karaage served atop a bright yuzu aioli. The bar program is Japan-inspired, with Japanese gin, whisky and shochu making appearances, and the bathroom doubles as a bodega stocked with small bouquets of fl owers, Pocky sticks, Cup Noodles and more random fi nds. The Grateful Gnome Sandwich Shoppe & Brewery 4369 Stuart Street 720-598-6863 thegratefulgnome.com The Gnome opened in 2018, and while cold beer is a great reason to visit the spacious brewpub, the sandwiches are the headlin- ers here. Chopped cheese, Taylor ham and housemade meatballs are some of the stand- outs in the wide selection of New York- and New Jersey-inspired options, all of which you can enjoy while listening to a soundtrack of Phish and Billy Strings (or live music, which the Gnome often hosts on weekends). The huge variety of top-quality meats and cheeses coupled with the relaxed atmo- sphere make this the kind of place where you’ll soon be a regular. The Greenwich 3258 Larimer Street 720-868-5006 thegreenwichdenver.com Originally from Greeley, Delores Tronco was one of the founders of Work & Class, which opened in 2014; Tronco sold her part of the business in 2017 and left Denver for New York City. When COVID forced the closure of Tronco’s fl edgling NYC venture, the Banty Rooster, she returned to Denver, and in Sep- tember 2021, she and chef Justin Freeman opened the Greenwich, which Tronco calls her “ode to New York City.” Here the pizzas are made on sourdough crust, the generous portions are meant for sharing, the wine list is tempting from start to fi nish, and the space is loaded with special NYC-inspired touches that feel totally right in RiNo. Hits the Spot 5637 West Colfax Avenue 303-284-6278 hitsthespotdiner.com Denver’s diner scene has dwindled in re- cent years, but this eatery, which claims to make “the fastest egg in the West,” has been serving up old-school Bar Dough’s interior recently got a makeover. MOLLY MARTIN Eat Here continued from page 14 continued on page 18