12 DECEMBER 8-14, 2022 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | NEWS | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Jen Wolkon, who also run Steuben’s, had a fast hit on their hands when they opened their ping-pong hall and pan-Asian eatery in 2012. The menu at Ace Eat Serve has just gotten better over the decade, especially since chef Thach Tran joined the team, adding a Peking duck special, hearty noodle soups and new fl avors from Vietnam, Thailand and China. Adelitas Cocina y Cantina 1294 South Broadway 303-778-1294 adelitasco.com Adelitas won the hearts of Platt Park neigh- bors and South Broadway commuters with its raucous Taco Tuesdays and potent house margaritas that far surpassed the typical pre-mixed standard. But it hasn’t rested on its tortillas; instead, the spot continues to present alluring dishes representing re- gional Mexican cuisine while building a jaw-dropping selection of tequila and mez- cal bottles behind the bar. Adelitas stands as proof that Denver diners are hungry for far more than just smothered burritos and ground-beef tacos. Adobo XO 3109 Federal Boulevard 720-242-9994 adobodenver.com After a head-on motorcycle accident de- railed his career in fi nance, Blaine Baggao re-evaluated his professional path, ultimately launching Adobo in 2016 as a food truck that combines his New Mexican and Filipino roots. Today the business has its own spa- cious brick-and-mortar location complete with pool table and live music, as well as a counter operation inside First Draft in RiNo. The menu at both places boasts tacos, nachos, rice bowls and many green chile-covered items, including fries loaded with smoked carnitas and cheese; carnitas deviled eggs with lime crema, cotija and cilantro; and crispy wontons. The best way to enjoy this fl avorful (vegan!) green chile: in a bowl loaded with smoked carnitas, with warm fl our torti- llas on the side. Don’t skip the lumpia, either. African Grill & Bar 955 South Kipling Parkway, Lakewood 303-985-4497 africangrilllakewood.com After the success of their Green Valley Ranch location, Sylvester and Theodora Osei-Ford- wuo launched their second eatery at the beginning of 2019, bringing their unique, delicious cooking to Lakewood. Though the original location is now closed, the newer African Grill and Bar is still going strong, with bold spices fl avoring uncommon dishes representing Ghana, Nigeria and other Af- rican nations, as well as warm service from the owners and their family. Angelo’s Taverna 620 East Sixth Avenue 303-744-3366 angelostaverna.com Angelo’s Taverna bills itself as Denver’s original pizza and oyster bar — and given that it’s been serving central Denver since the Nixon administration, it’s safe to say that it’s the longest-running restaurant of its ilk, although it’s now on its second owners (who opened a second outpost in Littleton). Even if you love oysters raw, Angelo’s makes a compelling argument for a char-grilled preparation, dressing them up with garlic butter, bacon and Gorgonzola or chipotle bourbon butter. Beyond bivalves and pizza, there’s a stacked lineup of Italian fare — some classic, like chicken parm and vodka penne, while other options have an Angelo’s twist, like the chile relleno ravioli. Whatever you order, pair it with the housemade limoncello. Annette 2501 Dallas Street 720-710-9975 annettescratchtotable.com Located in Stanley Marketplace, Annette is a beautiful restaurant fl ooded with light and dotted with natural elements that make the room feel sophisticated, not stark. Chef/ owner Caroline Glover, a 2022 James Beard Award winner, cooks seasonal ingredients over a wood-fi red grill with equal parts rev- erence and panache, turning out dishes that read as home cooking even when venturing into such chef-driven ingredients as beef tongue, octopus and heirloom vegetables. Apple Blossom 822 18th Street 303-301-8999 appleblossomdenver.com Apple Blossom debuted inside the Hy- att Centric Downtown Denver in Octo- ber 2021, giving siblings Paul and Aileen Reilly a chance to continue the legacy of their now-closed farm-to-table hit, Beast + Bottle. At Apple Blossom, the menu ranges from comfort-food classics meant to ap- peal to weary travelers, like the AB Burger, to dishes that show off some of America’s best ingredients, including a Benton’s Ham board and fresh seafood from Santa Barbara. Bakery Four 4150 Tennyson Street bakeryfour.com Shawn Bergin moved to Denver with dreams of starting a bakery business, but he never imagined it would take off the way it did. Bakery Four quickly outgrew its small Highland home, and now it’s in an expansive space that allows Bergin to make much larger quantities of his sought- after pastries, bread, bagels, breakfast sand- wiches and more, all made using sourdough starter. Show up early for the best selection. Banh & Butter Bakery Cafe 9935 East Colfax Avenue, Aurora 720-513-9313 banhandbutter.com Pastry chef Thoa Nguyen dreamed of run- ning her own Parisian-style, Asian-fusion bakery for years. One of the daughters of the former owners of New Saigon, she grew up in the restaurant business. Now she’s running the show at this spot, which excels not only in such sweets as crepe cakes and croissants, but savory options like banh mi and classic Parisian-style ham and butter sandwiches. Bar Dough 2227 West 32nd Avenue 720-668-8506 bardoughdenver.com Open since 2015, Bar Dough feels like a long- time staple in LoHi, where the Italian eatery serves up fresh pasta, pizza, small plates and a top-notch happy hour. The kitchen is led by chef Russell Stippich, who spent time at Frasca, Acorn and the Populist before joining the Culinary Creative restaurant group and landing at Bar Dough. In late 2022, the space got a fresh look that’s a little more moody, making it a striking date night go-to. Bastien’s 3503 East Colfax Avenue 303-322-0363 bastiensrestaurant.com With its iconic sign, sunken bar and mid- century aesthetic, Bastien’s is a holdover from times past — and we wouldn’t have it any other way. The family-run business dates back to the 1930s, but the current incarnation was constructed in 1958. That sign outside the Googie-style building touts the famed Bastien’s sugar steak, but there are twelve other preparations to choose from. And whether or not you splurge on a full steak dinner, nothing beats sipping Colfax dirty martinis delivered by friendly servers who’ve been working at this classic for years. Beckon 2843 Larimer Street 303-749-0020 beckon-denver.com Beckon’s chef’s-counter dining room feels like a dinner party thrown by a close friend — if that friend happened to be the best cook you know. But even at the outdoor seating under the covered patio, the Beckon experience is unique, thanks to thoughtful executive chef Duncan Holmes and the entire Beckon team, which exudes hospitality. The pre-paid tast- ing menu changes quarterly, and the whole experience lasts about two and a half hours. Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs 2148 Larimer Street 720-746-9355 bikerjimsdogs.com How does a humble hot dog cart rise to the status of one of Denver’s top dogs in the res- taurant business? Chalk it up to the creative and obsessive mind of Jim Pittenger, who started out with Coca-Cola-braised onions and cream cheese shot out of a caulking gun as a topping combo that elevated his wieners above the competition. Wild-game and spe- cialty sausages have drawn food celebrities including Anthony Bourdain, Ludo Lefebvre and Andrew Zimmern, as well as long lines of tube-steak tourists and frankfurter fanatics. The Bindery 1817 Central Street 303-993-2364 thebinderydenver.com Linda Hampsten Fox opened her LoHi eatery — part market, part all-day dining destination — in 2017. Five years later, the menu continues to show off not only her in- timate knowledge of Italian cuisine, but also Mexican and New American infl uences that refl ect experiences throughout her thirty- year career. Throw in a penchant for unusual proteins and brash fl avor combinations, and you get a spot that’s a true standout even in one of Denver’s trendiest neighborhoods. Blackbelly 1606 Conestoga Street, Boulder 303-247-1000 blackbelly.com Chef Hosea Rosenberg turned his 2009 victory on Bravo’s Top Chef into a culinary business that started with a food truck and catering company, then added Blackbelly in 2014. The butcher-driven eatery encom- passes all of the chef’s passions: charcuterie, top cuts from locally raised animals, and Southwestern fl avors from his childhood in New Mexico. Blackbelly’s next-door market and butcher shop provides an endless supply of cured meats and fresh cuts for the restau- rant as well as your home kitchen. Blazing Chicken Shack II 5560 East 33rd Avenue 720-596-4501 blazingchickenshackii.com This soul-food spot tucked a block off Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard may not look par- ticularly welcoming from the outside, with its caged-in windows Annette added oysters to its menu in 2022. MOLLY MARTIN Eat Here continued from page 11 continued on page 14