15 OCTOBER 2-8, 2025 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | Unbearably Good THE BEST PLACES TO EAT GREEN CHILE IN DENVER. BY MOLLY MARTIN Denver now has two Michelin-starred Mexi- can eateries: chef Johnny Curiel’s Alma Fonda Fina and Mezcaleria Alma. Alongside other newer additions to the scene, like Up- town’s Xiquita and La Diabla in the Ballpark neighborhood, these restaurants pay homage to the cooking techniques and ingredients so central to traditional Mexican cuisine. But there’s one dish you won’t fi nd on the menu at any of those spots: green chile. At least, not the version that’s become a staple at most Mexican restaurants in Denver — the gravy-like, often orange-hued, pork-studded substance that’s typically used as a sauce to smother burritos, fries and tortilla-wrapped burgers, aka Mexican hamburgers, which are one of the hallmarks of Den-Mex cuisine. That’s right: Denver has its own subgenre of Mexican eats, as coined by Gustavo Arel- lano, Ask a Mexican columnist and author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America. And Colorado-style green chile, preferably made with the state’s own Pueblo chiles, is the cornerstone of that cuisine. But these days, you can fi nd a wide variety of green chile options in town, spanning heat levels and hues, with varying levels of viscosity. There are even spots specializing in New Mexico-style green – which is dif- ferent, but also delicious. Still, some people will say you can only get good green chile in New Mexico, land of the fa- mous Hatch chiles, where the green tends to be thin and fi ery. Others are loyal to Pueblo, where homegrown chiles are used for a gravy-like green that tops that city’s infamous Sloppers. But there’s plenty of great green chile right here in Denver if you know where to look. And now you do: Here’s our 2025 guide to the best green chile in the metro area. The G.O.A.T. El Taco de Mexico 714 Santa Fe Drive There’s no denying the power that El Taco de Mexico’s green chile has over local diners. It’s been a favorite for over four decades, as evidenced by not only by numerous Best of Denver awards for its chile supremacy, but also by the James Beard Foundation, which named it an American Classic in 2020. The women running the kitchen at this counter service spot are a no-nonsense bunch who work some serious magic as they prepare giant pots of green chile daily. El Taco’s version is deeply fl avored, with a dark-greenish-brown tint and a bright edge that perfectly contrasts with rich burrito fi llings like carnitas or chile rellenos when it’s used as a sauce. But we love that this green is equally delicious eaten by the spoonful when you order a bowl, along with a side of some chunks of tender pork. El Taco de Mexico, never change. For the classic Den-Mex experience La Fiesta 2340 Champa Street Housed in a former Safeway in Curtis Park, La Fiesta is one of the longest-running restaurants in metro Denver that’s still op- erating in the same place, under the same family. The Herreras have overseen this cavernous eatery for over six decades. Here, you can always fi nd a table or bright orange booth to settle into for a gab session over classic, roux-thickened green chile that’s ladled over burritos, Mexican hamburgers, eggroll-style chiles relleno and other heap- ing plates of Den-Mex goodness. It’s got just enough heat up front to ward off a chilly day, but it won’t leave you sweating – even if you gobble down your whole plate in a hurry. For a gravy-like chile Tamales by La Casita 3561 Tejon Street This fi ve-decade-old north Denver staple was founded by former Colorado state senator and passionate tamale-maker Paul Sandoval, and his family continues to carry on his legacy today. The counter service spot still special- izes in tamales, which are one of the many items you can order smothered in La Casita’s heat-forward green chile. On the thinner side and studded with small pieces of pork, scant bits of tomato and visible diced chiles, it excels as a gravy-like sauce. Bonus: Tamales by La Casita also has an outpost on Concourse C at DIA, where you can score green chile and more on your way in or out of town. Chakas Mexican Restaurant 265 East Evans Avenue This full-service restaurant — with a full bar — is tucked into a south Denver strip mall. Inside, friendly servers bring out smothered plates for breakfast, lunch and dinner. While you can get its green chile in plate form, which includes large pieces of pork, its gravy-like consistency makes it ideal for blanketing bur- ritos, rellenos and even pork chops. D’Corazon 1530 Blake Street Over two decades ago, this spot spun off from a Las Delicias then located in LoDo, and it remains a favorite place to take visitors for an exemplary Colorado-style green chile. Thick and hearty with only faint heat, this is an ideal intro to the dish. Plus, D’Corazon offers a veg- etarian version for any of your meat-free friends. Chula on Broadway Cocina Mexicana 3866 South Broadway, Englewood It’s not often that a new Den-Mex place opens with old-school vibes, but that’s ex- actly what Myrna Soltero Diaz created when she transformed a former 4G’s outpost into Chula in 2023. The green chile here has a heat that builds slowly and is just the right thickness to cling to one of our favorite smothered options on the menu, the crispy chile relleno nachos. CAFE continued on page 16 FIND MORE FOOD & DRINK COVERAGE AT WESTWORD.COM/RESTAURANTS Nothing beats a green chile-smothered burrito from El Taco de Mexico. Even the Big Blue Bear is sweet on Denver’s green chile. MOLLY MARTIN MONIKA SWIDERSKI
