Food and Drink continued from page 74 now guests can enjoy a full menu that includes such Slavic staples as cabbage rolls, kielbasa, sauerkraut soup and tangy cucumber salad. But a little Colorado has rubbed off on Polish-Canadian owner Jer- emy Yurek and his wife, Katherine, so don’t be surprised to fi nd some zingy green chile hiding inside your pierogi. Best Taste of Armenia and Georgia House of Bread 2020 South Parker Road 720-727-0000 houseofbreadinc.com Armenian cuisine doesn’t get much at- tention in Denver — at least it didn’t until House of Bread opened in late 2020. Now those in the know fl ock to the east-side bakery for ajaruli khachapuri, canoe- shaped bread fi lled with bubbly cheese and sunny-side-up eggs — and one of three styles of khachapuri sold at the bakery. There’s much more to explore, though, whether you’re craving dump- lings (ask for the beef-fi lled sini manti), grilled meats (choose from several styles of kebab) or specialty breads (just pick something warm and fresh from the rack). House of Bread also serves a full range of coffee drinks and fancy pastries, so there’s always something tempting, whether for breakfast, lunch, dinner or dessert. A visit is a delicious way to get to know Armenia a little better. Best Seafood Restaurant Stoic & Genuine 1701 Wynkoop Street 303-640-3474 stoicandgenuine.com Union Station has been swimming in seafood since Stoic & Genuine opened in 2014. Chef/co-owner Jennifer Jasinski and her crew have turned out beautiful seafood dishes from the start; the staff is still sourcing super-fresh, sustainable seafood from multiple coasts, and has one of the top oyster programs in the city. Start with a plate of salmon sashimi tossed in chili oil and yuzu-soaked or- ange peel, then follow it with a bowl of seafood bisque and a few choice items from the raw bar, such as Maine lobster and snow crab legs. While known for its innovative and delicious seafood entrees, Stoic & Genuine also claims the rights to a really great burger. Best Oysters Oyster Wulff oysterwulff.com Despite the city’s distance from either coast, fresh oysters make their way to the Mile High via Denver International Air- port — often arriving faster here than they reach coastal cities by truck. But while there are a lot of places to slurp these briny bivalves in Denver, one Maine na- tive is stepping up the oyster game. You may have spotted Ben Wolven, the man behind Oyster Wulff, shucking at For- get Me Not in Cherry Creek, or caught his oysters on the menu at A5. He has the goods shipped to him directly from Maine, and is not only an actual champi- onship shucker, but also a pro at talking oysters and sustainability, spreading the word about the positive impact that oys- ters have on the environment — which makes eating them even sweeter. Best Use of Small Silverware Cart-Driver 2500 Larimer Street 303-292-3553 2239 West 30th Avenue 720-501-2264 cart-driver.com Of course we love Cart-Driver for its wood-fired pizzas, but the dining ex- perience is elevated when you order a tray of whatever oysters are on offer on a given day, served raw with a tiny fork for the bivalves and a tiny spoon for the mignonette. But to reach true Cart-Driver pro status, you need to dig into the res- taurant’s selection of tinned fi sh. At the newer, larger LoHi location, that means sardines, but the RiNo original also has a selection, including smoked trout, codfi sh and stuffed baby squid. What- ever you choose will arrive on a tray with charred, fl uffy piada bread, black olive butter, sambal pepper relish...and even more tiny silverware. Best Steakhouse A5 76 1600 15th Street 303-623-0534 a5denver.com Denver has spent years trying to shed its cowtown reputation — which includes trending away from steakhouses toward a much more diverse culinary scene. But A5, which opened in 2021 in the former home of Morin, takes the classic steak- house and infuses it with a modern sourcing ethos as well as fun, retro vibes. The result is a spot that feels anything but stuffy, thanks in large part to a menu from chef Max MacKissock that includes not only high-quality steaks — including the must-order Japanese wagyu strip- loin — but also updated takes on such classic steakhouse fare as a wedge salad with crispy guanciale and a crunchy seed mixture, and a beef tartare katsu sand- wich with a perfectly soft-boiled quail egg tucked inside. continued on page 78 APRIL 7-13, 2022 WESTWORD | BACKBEAT | MUSIC & VENUES | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING & SERVICES | CONTENTS | westword.com
