Food and Drink continued from page 66 seems to be a poke spot on every corner. While most rely on endless customiza- tion options and toppings, Ohana’s simple, classic take remains the best. As in Hawaii, the poke here is served in a way that lets the ahi tuna itself shine. All you have to do is choose between shoyu and spicy — and decide how many Spam musubi you’re getting on the side. (“At least two” is the correct answer.) Best Pho Pho 79 781 South Federal Boulevard 303-922-2930 facebook.com/Pho79Denver Along the stretch of South Federal Bou- levard where noodle houses outnumber lowriders on a Sunday night, a handful of no-nonsense Vietnamese spots, most serving rice plates and steaming bowls of pho, have stood the test of time, and Pho 79 is the standout. The restaurant’s decor is warm and inviting, and the menu is comforting in its simplicity (no analy- sis paralysis here). The broth — a true test of any pho shop’s worth — is stout and flavorful, and the accompanying bean sprouts, jalapeños, basil and lime wedges are always fresh and crisp. That said, we rarely pass up the opportunity to order one of the house specialties: bun bo Hue, a spicy soup studded with thin- sliced beef, pork sausages and unctuous pork hock. Best Ramen Ramen Star 4044 Tejon Street 303-455-3787 ramenstar.com The best ramen starts with the noodles, and Ramen Star is nearly alone in Denver in its dedication to fresh ramen noodles made in- house daily. The process is time-consuming and diffi cult, but it results in springy, fl avorful noodles that hold up in a hot bowl of broth down to the very last spoonful. Chef/owner Takashi Tamai fills his bowls with both traditional and unique ingredients, from supple chashu pork to crisp-skinned potato pierogi. Serious ramen lovers go straight for the tsukemen, which offers thick noodles served separately so that you can dip them in an intense, velvety broth. We’ll slurp to that! Best Dumplings Seoul ManDoo 2222 South Havana Street, Aurora 303-953-9590 seoulmandoo.com Is bigger better? Once you sink your teeth into an imposing “giant dumpling” (really, that’s what they’re called on the menu!), you’ll never go back to diminutive dump- lings. The baseball-sized giants come stuffed with chopped noodles, veggies and a variety of meats, each one threatening to burst its perfect pleats. But if you’re into something dainty, Seoul ManDoo sells standard-sized steamed or fried mandoo, too, and you can even buy a frozen pack to take home and cook whenever you get a craving. With Seoul ManDoo, you can go big and go home. Best Chinese Restaurant Blue Ocean Asian Cuisine (Little Chengdu) 8101 East Belleview Avenue 303-220-0577 blueoceantogo.com This sparsely decorated Denver Tech Cen- ter strip-mall spot, which still bears the “Blue Ocean” sign and online presence of its predecessor, offers an array of traditional Chinese dishes found on a lengthy Chinese menu that’s MIA online. The main draw at Little Chengdu: noodles hand-made by the owner at a small station outside the kitchen entryway, where he pulls them with mes- merizing effi ciency — something you can’t fi nd anywhere else in the city. He works solo, running both the front- and back-of-house operations, so plan to take your time when you visit. But visit often, so that you can eat your way through other specialties, too, like hot pot cooked at your table and handmade Szechuan wontons stewed in chili oil. Best Vietnamese Restaurant Savory Vietnam 2200 West Alameda Avenue 303-975-2399 savoryvietnam.com Opened by the daughter of the founders of New Saigon in 2019, Savory Vietnam has a cavernous dining room and, somehow, an even bigger menu. While the sheer number of options can be overwhelming, the doz- ens of soups, salads, noodle and rice dishes, stir-fries, hot pots and chef’s specials refl ect the wide range of styles and infl uences in Vietnamese cuisine. Go with a group that likes to share, and start with a mounded platter of fi nger food and fresh herbs that you wrap in rice paper to create your own rolls. Then dig into other selections, all of which arrive from the kitchen vibrant with color, aroma and fl avor — like a tour of a busy street market. 68 Best Place to Eat Banh Mi on Texas Toast Long Shots Bar & Grill 4400 Ward Road, Wheat Ridge 303-403-0227 Located right off of I-70, this Wheat Ridge bar is a familiar stop for truckers, bikers, sports fans, and...Vietnamese food lovers? Skip right past the burgers, wings and green chile-drenched burritos and you’ll fi nd a full menu of Vietnamese favorites, in- cluding pho, spring continued on page 70 APRIL 7-13, 2022 WESTWORD | BACKBEAT | MUSIC & VENUES | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING & SERVICES | CONTENTS | westword.com
