13 FEBRUARY 8-14, 2024 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NEWS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | Be Mine AN ODE TO SOME OF OUR FAVORITE PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK. BY WESTWORD STAFF Valentine’s Day is almost here, and love is in the air — but romantic love can be fi ckle. One thing that never disappoints: the deep relationships we form with our beloved restaurants and bars. Over many visits, certain spots become go-to’s, the kinds of places we can depend on for comfort and joy, whether we’re going there to celebrate or commiserate. If you truly love someone, you should tell them as often as possible, so we’re doing just that. We asked our food and drink contribu- tors to profess their feelings for their favorite places to eat and drink in Denver. Here are their love letters: Ménage à Trois On date night, this trio of Denver clas- sics never disappoints. Your fi rst move: Settle into the last two bar seats by the window at Angelo’s Taverna on East Sixth Avenue. Toast glasses of chilled white wine and watch the gregarious cooks dance in harmony during the inevitable chaotic dinner rush as they make your original grilled oysters — craggy shells glistening with plump, silky meat bubbling in garlic butter and topped with a delicate crust of shredded Parmesan. You move on to second base at the Thin Man in Uptown, sipping on an aromatic mezcal cocktail or a mug of hot mulled spiced wine in the deep red glow of the bulbs draped across the cozy bar’s rafters. After last call, you take a short stroll up to Pete’s Kitchen on Colfax, tuck into a couple of seats at the bar and order the gyros sandwich, a beloved plate at this iconic diner that just tastes better in the wee hours of the night, especially when you have someone to share it with. — Tony White Beefcake Columbine Steak House, a staple on Federal Boulevard since 1961, may not be everyone’s idea of sexy — but it’s mine. Forget suits and ties, pricy appetizers and preten- sion. Give me the simple pleasure of a steak dinner served fast. Cash-only? Sure, I’ll do whatever you want for a chance to chow down on fl ame-kissed beef, hand-cut in the back room and seasoned to perfection. Give me the simple salad drenched in ranch, the thick-cut Texas toast, the baked potato with a pool of hot butter melting inside. Throw in a spicy grilled jalapeño on the side and a cheap vodka tonic (or three) when I can snag a seat on the bar side, too. A bang for your buck, indeed. — Molly Martin Amore Highland eatery Spuntino is owned by chef Cindhura Reddy and her husband, Elliot Strathmann, who often crafts poems about their dishes for social media — so it’s about time someone returned the favor: What’s in a dish, that so magnifi cently melds the rich traditions of Italy and India, A plate of hand-rolled ca- pellini married to spice-pre- served garlic, Wild elk meshed with warming masala, bejeweled by ajwain seed crisps, Two worlds far apart, steeped in love and family, Finally together in Colorado. What’s in a chef, to make and stir and meld, A meal that fi lls the mouth and soul, bit by bit, Sliced through the heart with rosemary and olive oil focaccia, Slain by green chile-spiked arancini, Blood-hued amaro to toast the conquered. What’s in a place, run by love for the love of food, Two hands are four, now six, to make the spuntino, the snack, the fuel. Each night a glimpse of family both by blood and proximity, From bar to table to memories, in glass or on plates. Ten years now, forever cherished. — Linnea Covington Hot Stuff At Palenque, in the heart of Littleton on Main Street, the molcajete is not just a dish, but a celebration of heritage and fl avor. Carved from volcanic stone, the humble yet heavy bowl is fi lled with marinated steak, tender chicken and succulent shrimp bathed in a spicy tomato sauce that sings of secret spices and whispered promises. My love for the dish runs as hot as the lava that formed the molcajete vessel, which arrives at the table bubbling away, promising an eruption of fl avors. With scissors in hand, I dive into the bounty, slicing through each layer like a cu- linary excavation of Mexican cuisine. Inside the stone chalice, green onions and nopales are nestled like verdant jewels, their crisp- ness a perfect foil to the panela cheese that melts into the sauce. I scoop out each bite and ladle it onto a warm tortilla. On a cold night or a bad day, Palenque’s molcajete is pure comfort and joy. Warm, hearty, savory and oh-so-cheesy, it’s a culinary hug. — Helen Xu My Hero LOVER is an acronym for the Edible Beats restaurants — Linger, Ophelia’s, Vital Root, El Five and Root Down. While I enjoy them all, there are fi ve reasons that El Five in LoHi is particularly special to me: One: incredible views of the city I call home, And a luxe ambience that sets the mood — that’s two. Three: Holidays, birthdays and anniver- saries here are easy for me; See, vegans are often left out of prix fi xe meals, But at El Five, the veggie-forward menu always appeals. Reason four: Few places are better for a group of good friends; Get sangria pitchers and paella to share, Order pitas and tasty tapas like patatas bravas — And don’t skip dessert if you have room to spare. My fi nal reason is the hospitable staff, Who have created many fond memories on the fi fth fl oor. Thank you for sharing your great talent and creativity, It’s always a pleasure to walk through El Five’s door. — Abigail Bliss Yum Yum We met last summer at the Highlands Square Farmers Market. I was venturing through the crowds when the alluring aroma of freshly baked bread drew me toward a bright-yellow wood-fi red oven. Music was playing and the chefs were dancing. Rays of sunshine refl ected from a hypnotizing disco ball as if to say, “Good morning, and remember to keep it funky.” Slightly dazed, I ordered the OG break- fast sandwich from Funky Flame. It’s built on a sourdough English muffi n with a bold and distinct fl avor profi le that can only be achieved through the artistry of a wood- fi red oven. Baked to perfection, the muffi n is sliced and fi lled with a warm sausage patty and a crispy fried egg, while a layer of fried Swiss cheese adds irresistible charm. Pickled onion infuses a zesty spark that elevates the taste and texture to a whole new level along with the special sauce, a tangy twist. It was love at fi rst sight — or bite — and now I look forward to many more rendezvous at Funky Flame’s new permanent home (4994 Lowell Boulevard). — Chris Byard Stir My Heart Plant-based before plant-based was cool, City, O’ City, you’re old-school. When Watercourse went uptown back in the day, you opened in Cap Hill, and that’s where you stay. The heart of the city, a hub for art. A solid cup of coffee from morning ’til dark. No stranger to construction or gentrifi - cation, you cater to all dietary restrictions. You’ve withstood the changes taking place all around, a steadfast source of tasty food and drink to be found. Pleasing meat eaters and vegans alike, easily accessible by foot and by bike. A creative community culinary spot, City, O’ City, we like you a lot. — Danielle Krolewicz . CAFE FIND MORE FOOD & DRINK COVERAGE AT WESTWORD.COM/RESTAURANTS The Thin Man is part of a love triangle you want to get caught in. TONY WHITE
