19 JANUARY 26-FEBRUARY 1, 2023 westword.com WESTWORD | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | Day Drinking THE TEN BEST BRUNCHES IN DENVER. BY MOLLY MARTIN For many, brunch is more than a meal. It’s an excuse to get together with good friends and linger over good food with a side of day drinking. Along with boozy brunch staples, the appeal of this meal that goes from morn- ing to afternoon is the lack of menu rules. Want a big stack of pancakes and a burger? No problem. Craving pastries alongside a salad? Sure, why not? In Denver, brunch isn’t just limited to weekends, either. Most of the spots on this list serve the beloved meal on weekdays, too, so you can indulge on a Wednesday, if the opportunity arises. Here are our ten favorite brunches in metro Denver, from a diner that serves ex- tra-tall mimosas to a dim sum favorite to a sprawling Mediterranean buffet: The Bindery 1817 Central Street 303-993-2364 thebinderydenver.com Chef Linda Hampsten Fox’s LoHi restaurant is the perfect place for a classy brunch, which is served on Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 2:45 p.m. The menu spans cuisines, with everything from a Dutch baby pancake with sweet or savory accoutrements to oysters, breakfast carbonara and chilaquiles making an appearance. You can also load up on pastries to go for plenty of post-brunch snacks. And while the full brunch menu isn’t available on weekdays, the Bindery is open at 8 a.m. for breakfast Tuesday through Friday, with offerings that include an omelet of the day, duck hash and all the brunch cocktail staples, including a build-your-own mimosa option. The Cookery at Myrtle Hill 1020 South Gaylord Street 303-733-7448 thecookeryatmyrtlehill.com South Gaylord Street is packed with small businesses that draw in residents of the neigh- borhood, but none has as loyal a following as this spot that serves a homestyle menu of breakfast and lunch selections from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. The sister concept to Devil’s Food Bakery next door, the Cookery at Myrtle Hill underwent a renovation during the pandemic and reopened in 2021 with a larger, pastel-hued space complete with counter seating. This is the kind of low-key brunch place that’s best for small groups, and it’s guaranteed to please everyone, whether you opt for the quiche of the day, a simple breakfast sandwich on a brioche bun or something more hearty, like chicken pot pie with a side of French onion soup. Fox Run Cafe 3550 East Colfax Avenue 303-537-4584 foxruncafe.com With its bright and cheery interior and even cheerier staff, Fox Run Cafe has come a long way from its chal- lenging beginnings. After permitting delays pushed its original opening date from January 2020 to March of that year (and the very week that restaurants were ordered to shut down because of the pandemic), it opened with just three staff members of- fering takeout meals only. Now, though, it’s got plenty of people on hand as it serves up a menu packed with stand- outs from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. Start with an extra thick slice of griddled banana bread (yes, you do want honey butter on the side) before digging into choices like a tahini Caesar with just the right amount of crunch and a stellar fried chicken biscuit with crisp- on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside fried potatoes on the side. Mimosas 2752 Welton Street 720-372-7572 mimosasdenver.com This upbeat Five Points eatery has an R&B- heavy playlist and a wall covered in images of oranges — fi tting for a spot named Mimosas, which serves a whole list of them, including three fl ight options with a variety of spins on the bubbly brunch favorite. The menu leans Southern, with such items as biscuits and gravy, chicken and waffl es, and a cheesy, rich take on shrimp and grits studded with slices of Andouille sausage, all available from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Onefold 1420 East 18th Avenue 303-954-0877 1919 19th Street 720-788-7550 onefolddenver.com If you’re over Benedicts and scrambles, Onefold is ready to make eggs interesting again. The original Uptown location opened in 2015 and quickly gained a following with such dishes as bacon fried rice (or a Chinese sausage version) topped with a duck fat-fried egg, and congee (a savory rice porridge) with rich duck confi t and spicy chili oil. Even more typical offerings are stepped up here, like the breakfast tacos topped with griddled cheese. In late 2021, a second location by Union Station was added after a year of pandemic-related delays, so now twice as many people can enjoy this brunch favorite. Safta 3330 Brighton Boulevard 720-408-2444 eatwithsafta.com While this brunch is only available on Satur- days and Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., it’s worth planning ahead for the occasion. Chef Alon Shaya’s Denver eatery is among the best restaurants in town, and there’s no better way to get a taste of the many things it does well than partaking of the weekend brunch buffet, which made a comeback last year after a pandemic hiatus. The word “buffet” hardly does justice to the sprawling selection of freshly made options you’ll fi nd, from wood-fi red pita paired with a variety of hummus and other dips to smoked fi sh, shakshuka in individual-sized skillets, thick latkes, pastries aplenty and much more. Sam’s No. 3 Multiple locations samsno3.com Denver’s diner scene has taken some big hits since the pandemic began, but Sam’s No. 3 continues to build on the history that began back in 1927. Today the Armatas family operates three Sam’s locations, in Aurora, Glendale and downtown Denver, all of which serve a full (as in sixteen-page-long) menu of American, Greek and Mexican staples every day of the week. The extra-tall mimosas pair perfectly with the extra-large breakfast burritos, which come in over two dozen varieties. But with a menu this large, it’s easy to create your own adventure when ordering. Wanna stuff fried cheese curds in your Toro Pot or nosh on a chili cheese dog along with your omelet? Sam’s is happy to make all your brunch dreams come true. Sassafras 3927 West 32nd Avenue 303-433-0080 sassafrasamericaneatery.com Though it once had three locations, Sassafras has scaled back, concentrating on its spa- cious Highland eatery with truly homey vibes (it’s located in two adjoining houses). While it also recently be- gan serving dinner Tuesday through Saturday, the South- ern brunch, which is available from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, remains the draw. Alongside an array of mimosas and other liba- tions is a selection of eight Bloody Marys, including the extra-large Proud Mary, a full 24 ounces of spiked re- freshment. The food offer- ings include loaded mac and cheese, po’boys and Bene- dicts, as well as some long- time staples such as bison hash topped with two runny- yolked chicken-fried eggs. Star Kitchen 2917 West Mississippi Avenue 303-936-0089 starkitchenseafooddimsum.com While this spot is short on booze (though it does offer a small selection of beer and wine to ease your hangover), we can forgive that brunch shortcoming given the appeal of a solid dim sum experience. Denver doesn’t have the huge dim sum scene you’ll fi nd in cities like Chicago or New York, but we’ve got Star Kitchen, where the carts roll out of the kitchen loaded with dumplings of all kinds, fried noodles, shrimp balls, chicken feet, sticky rice and on and on. Go before the 10 a.m. opening on Saturday and Sunday; the line to add your name to the list starts to form at least a half-hour early. For a less crowded experi- ence, Star Kitchen also offers a smaller dim sum selection on weekdays, when it opens at 10:30 a.m. (though it’s closed on Wednesdays). Stowaway Kitchen 2528 Walnut Street 720-583-5481 stowawaydenver.com Inspired by their adventures abroad, owners Amy Cohen and Hayden Barnie opened this cafe in 2015 and have been serving up some of the most creative brunch fare in town ever since. Unlike the typical heavy, nap- inducing eats that fi ll most brunch menus, the food at Stowaway skews lighter and draws from global infl uences, with items like onigiri, black rice porridge and the colorful mushroom tartine, available from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Monday. As befi ts a cafe, the coffee game is on point here, but so are the cocktails, which include the Duderino, Stowaway’s take on the trendy espresso martini. Email the author at [email protected]. CAFE FIND MORE FOOD & DRINK COVERAGE AT WESTWORD.COM/RESTAURANTS Chicken-fried eggs on bison hash is a longtime staple at Sassafras. MOLLY MARTIN