8 W E S T W O R D F o o d & D r i n k 2 0 2 4 westword.com What Is Colorado Cuisine? LOCAL FOOD INDUSTRY PROS SHARE THEIR TAKE. BY MO LLY M ART I N I’m often asked for restaurant recom- mendations, and when the person asking is from out of state, they usually want to know where to eat for a taste of “Colorado food.” But what, exactly, does that mean? We posed the question to a wide range of local food pros. Here’s what they had to say: How would you defi ne Colorado cuisine? Paul C. Reilly, culinary director/pro- prietor, Coperta: Emerging. Not yet set in stone. Bo Porytko, chef/owner, Molotov: We went from a meat-and-potatoes city to a heritage-meat-and-heirloom-potatoes city. I think that Denver cuisine is still a little cautious, but we (both diners and chefs) care a lot about where we source our food and try to use the exceptional product that is available to us here locally in Colorado. We fi rmly believe in farm- to-table (even when that term has kind of fallen out of favor). Jesus Silva, chef, Tacos al Chile, Re- publik of Chicken and Sushi Sora at the Golden Mill: The food culture feels like an evolving force building toward its desti- nation. We now can celebrate so many Michelin-starred restaurants, and I can look across the landscape and see so many talented chefs up and down the rosters. This is an exciting time. Aniedra Nichols, chef/co-owner, Table 6: Local, seasonal, thoughtful. Mark Antonation, former Westword food and drink editor: Colorado cuisine is defi ned by our short growing season, sunny days, cool nights and small but distinct growing regions. We eat what grows well here in the summer and what can be stored or preserved to make hearty meals in the winter. Robert Guillory, CEO/co-owner, South- ern Bell Catering Group: Colorado cuisine, while often associated with Western-in- spired fare, is a diverse tapestry infl u- enced by various factors, including Native American traditions, Mexican cuisine and European settlers. It blends hearty, comforting fl avors with fresh, local in- gredients, refl ecting the state’s natural beauty and agricultural bounty. Jeff Osaka, chef/owner, Sushi-Rama and Osaka Ramen: To me, it’s hard to defi ne what Colorado cuisine is because it’s evolved so much in the sixteen years I’ve lived here. In part, that there are so many producers popping up when I never knew they existed. Potato and grain farm- ers, local honey, sunfl ower and canola for cooking oil production, and so much more! Donovan Davis, executive chef, the Common Good: Colorado’s cuisine is ev- er-evolving, in my opinion. With the infl ux of people from all over the country and all over the world, we have many different styles of food, and many different styles of cuisine. Colorado, of course, has its own long-lasting dishes and local ingredients that will always stand out. Ricardo Villalobos, executive chef, My Neighbor Félix: Colorado’s cuisine is a vibrant tapestry woven from the diverse cultures that call the state home, with a particularly strong infl uence from Mex- ican culture. I love exploring the different culinary styles available here, and I’m consistently impressed by the freshness, local sourcing and bold fl avors that char- acterize the food. Each dish tells a story, refl ecting the rich heritage and creativity of the state’s culinary scene. Kyle Mendenhall, senior director of culinary innovation, Snooze A.M. Eatery: Colorado cuisine is clearly pretty diverse. It’s a little cowboy, a little Native Amer- ican, a little Southwestern, some West Coast and a little Midwest. Although, it’s still none of those, exactly... Joe Mazzocco, executive chef, Señor Bear: I think of its diverse infl uences and emphasis on local ingredients, refl ecting the state’s agricultural heritage and nat- ural resources. The farm-to-table philos- ophy plays a big role for us at Señor Bear, as we source ingredients from local farms and try to focus on freshness and sustain- ability. We also pull a lot of infl uence and inspiration from various cultures and tend to blend Native American, Mexican and Western infl uences, which often result in unique twists on traditional dishes. Sheila Lucero, executive chef, Jax Fish House and Centro Mexican Kitchen: I am a Colorado native, and I have seen quite an evolution in the state’s cuisine. Colo- rado cuisine refl ects our cultural history, diverse landscape and local ingredients. Infl uenced by Native American, Mexican and Western ranching traditions, our cui- sine often emphasizes bold, hearty flavors The Game Plate at the Fort, a Colorado classic. COURTESY OF THE FORT continued on page 10
