20 W E S T W O R D F o o d & D r i n k 2 0 2 4 westword.com nous producers. Davis: It doesn’t get any more Colorado than Buckhorn Exchange. What dishes (either specific ones from restaurants or general categories) are a key part of Colorado cuisine? Porytko: I know Rocky Mountain oysters seem like an obvious choice, but they’re always fried to oblivion so I’m not gonna count them. If I’m gonna eat a testicle, I want to know the experience of eating a testicle — otherwise, what’s the point? Mendenhall: The Slopper (born in Pueblo), cinnamon rolls (Johnson’s Cor- ner), Rocky Mountain oysters, the sugar steak at Bastien’s. Bonanno: You know what speaks to me of comfort food that’s uniquely Colo- rado? The almond flour pancakes at Root Down, a latte in a giant mug from Pablo’s, the spicy la zi ji from Hop Alley or tongue tacos at El Taco de Mexico. Caroline Glover, chef/owner, Annette and Traveling Mercies: I drive down East Colfax every single day to get to Annette and Traveling Mercies (I call it the Colfax crawl!), and some of my favorite haunts that have been around for decades are Tacos Acapulco (for the pupusas!) and La Costera for the best grilled chicken. These dishes are absolutely a key part of my Colorado cuisine. Imbergamo: I’m not sure they’re in- dicative of “Colorado cuisine,” but the chile relleno burrito at El Taco de Mex- ico. Pho in any number of places, but especially along Federal. Anything Jen Jasinski makes with Colorado lamb. The Pueblo slopper. A giant steak and martini at Elway’s. Antonation: Colorado’s green chile is kind of a secret outside the state, since it’s usually associated with New Mexico. But Colorado’s thick, gravy-like green chile can be found at nearly every bar and grill, as well as at longstanding Mex- ican restaurants. Colorado also has a few distinct Italian/Mexican hybrids, like Denver-style cannoli made with spicy sausage and a strip of green chile, or sau- sage sandwiches in Pueblo also made with green chile. In Denver diners, look for Greek/Mexican mashups like gyros or souvlaki breakfast burritos. Reilly: The handheld breakfast burrito is the Colorado dish. Closed book. What ingredients play a key role in Col- orado cuisine? Porytko: Local seasonal ones like cher- ries, Olathe corn, Palisade peaches (maybe the world’s greatest fruit), melons, toma- toes, incredible local lamb and, of course, Pueblo chiles. Silva: We often talk about Colorado’s Pueblo chiles — which have certainly earned their top spot, and I love seeing the whole culture around roasting them in the fall. But behind that main star are so many other chiles bringing the heat: Anaheims, jalapeños, habaneros. I even found fresh chile piquín recently, a favorite of mine from Monterrey. In our house, a simple summer staple meal is grilled ribeyes on our fire pit with fresh tortillas and salsas blending the heat of Colorado chiles with juicy garden tomatoes in the molcajete. It doesn’t get any better. Imbergamo: I would include the ob- vious ones: green chile, Colorado lamb, Olathe sweet corn, Palisade peaches, craft beer, artisan whiskey. I might add Colorado heritage/heirloom grains that supply the local distillers and brewers. For example, Laws Whiskey uses grains grown with love at Cody Family Farm in the San Luis Valley and the Whiskey Sisters Supply out on Colorado’s eastern plains. In the ’80s, this question would have included fresh rainbow trout like the ones from Frontier Colorado Cuisine continued from page 18 continued on page 24 SCORE BIG at ameristar! $15 BUCKET OF BEER OR SELTZERS AmeristarBlackhawk.com GAMBLING PROBLEM? CALL OR TEXT 1-800-GAMBLER.
