14 W E S T W O R D F o o d & D r i n k 2 0 2 4 westword.com be an advocate for fresh seafood in Col- orado. The commentary about inland states not being able to get fresh seafood is exhausting to hear. We actually have a wonderful hybrid striped bass that is produced in Alamosa and is super versatile and consistent. Guillory: Limited to steak and potatoes: While these are popular, Colorado cuisine offers much more. All Tex-Mex: While there’s a strong Mexican infl uence, Colo- rado has its own unique culinary identity. Unrefi ned or rustic: There’s a growing sophistication in Colorado’s food scene. Mazzocco: There’s a notion that Col- orado cuisine is heavy and indulgent. In some cases this is true, but we are seeing quite the upturn, with many restaurants prioritizing health-conscious and vege- tarian/vegan options, refl ecting a trend toward healthier eating. While meat is a staple, especially game meats, many Colorado chefs are beginning to focus on plant-based dishes and seasonal vegeta- bles, showcasing a commitment to and listening to what the Colorado food scene is looking for. Mendenhall: That it is all beef-forward. That Rocky Mountain oysters are actually good. We also actually do have amazing wines produced on the Western Slope, and we don’t serve as much wild game as the rest of the country thinks. Villalobos: A common misconception I often encounter about Colorado cuisine, particularly in Denver, is that it lacks freshness. I’ve also heard claims that it lacks regional infl uences. However, Colo- rado truly serves as a melting pot, drawing culinary inspiration from everyone who passes through. Imbergamo: During his many years as spokesperson for Visit Denver, Rich Grant answered this question from every national journalist with the same phrase. “Beer and buffalo,” said Rich, thereby poi- soning the national perception of Denver dining forever and doubling down on our “cowtown” culinary reputation. Ev- ery visiting journalist was treated to the Wynkoop, Buckhorn Exchange or the Fort after a visit to Rockmount Ranch Wear. Nothing wrong with those restaurants, but they refl ected Denver’s chef-driven culi- nary progress as much as Rockmount rep- resented our everyday sartorial choices. Grant: Coloradans come from every corner of the earth. In 1858, when gold was discovered along Cherry Creek in what became Denver, there were a handful of Europeans living in what was called the Colorado Territory. In two years, 100,000 men and women crossed the Great Plains, and by 1876, Colorado became a state. Peo- ple came to Colorado from everywhere. When the railroads arrived, oysters and French Champagne were available in the wildest of Wild West mining towns, along with Chinese restaurants and every type of European cuisine. Colorado was never solely a “cowtown” of beef. All cuisines have always been available since the very beginning. But what was uniquely Colo- radan? Well, pork green chile. Different from the rest of the Southwest. And exotic meats of buffalo and elk, which stuck here along with beef while they did not in other parts of the West. Edgar Drago, executive chef, Wonder- yard: The misconception is that Colorado offers a limited cuisine, that we have a small culinary presence with basic fl avors that are not fresh or, on the opposite spec- trum, that we think must be expensive and exclusive. Restaurants that limit fl avor, prepare arrogant food and confuse it with elegance. I think we, as a culinary commu- nity, incorporate value, fresh ingredients and presentation all in one. Colorado cui- sine is rich in fl avor and overall has soul. We have evolved, as proven by how many independently owned restaurants from Colorado chefs we have now compared to fi fteen years ago. Sujie Kim, director of marketing for Mile High Asian Food Week: A huge mis- conception about Colorado cuisine is that we don’t have a variety of Asian cuisines, let alone good options. Even if it is not what most people think of when they think about Colorado cuisine, Asian food is a staple and has been growing in popularity and notoriety in our state, with restaurants like Sap Sua and Yuan Wonton making best-of lists locally and nationally and the Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition of MAKfam and Hop Alley. While the AANHPI community may be small, only about 4.5 percent of the population of our state, it is a diverse and delicious part of Colorado cuisine. Rodriguez: That we should have a specifi c defi nition of Colorado cuisine. When we talk about it, we tend to lean into ingredients to defi ne the cuisine more than we do any dish or preparation. This is because in Colorado, even ten years ago, we did not have as much access to locally grown or raised ingredients. As that has changed, we begin to establish what it is to create cooking styles that are unique to Colorado. What restaurants best represent Col- orado cuisine? Porytko: Places like Duo and Potager, which started the trend of farm-to-table in Denver and continue to do it masterfully. Silva: I often hail our immigrant-run restaurants as representing some of our most unique fl avors, and it’s that very im- migrant history that has shaped the caliber of what we see. For me, Sushi Den and Su- shi Sasa have seen a huge enrichment from Japanese chefs working there — bringing different ideas from micro-cultures across Japan. Same with our Vietnamese restau- rants — we have some of the best in the country, and it’s so exciting to see restau- rants pushing the boundaries way beyond pho. Recently, I had Colorado Cuisine continued from page 12 continued on page 16 A dish by chef Jennifer Jasinski: Colorado lamb, Olathe corn polenta, Palisade peaches and charred Jimmy Nardello peppers. COURTESY OF JOHN IMBERGAMO
