36 WESTWORD FOOD & DRINK 2023 Meat and Greet THE TEN BEST OLD-SCHOOL STEAKHOUSES IN METRO DENVER. The Denver dining scene has evolved in big ways over the past decade; while doing so, the city has shed much of its former cowtown reputation. But we still appreciate gloriously grilled T-bones, fi lets, New York strips and other juicy cuts. While there are some notable, shiny new places for a steak- night fi x, there’s still something special about snagging a table at one of the city’s classic spots. Here are ten of the best: Bastien’s 3503 East Colfax Avenue 303-322-0363 bastiensrestaurant.com This family-run business dates back to the 1930s, but the current incarnation was constructed in 1958, in distinct Goo- gie style from the roofl ine to the neon sign. Inside, dinner in the bird’s-nest loft feels intimate and old-school. Bastien’s is famous for its sugar steak — served no more than medium-rare — but it also offers a dozen other styles to choose from, and every steak dinner includes a choice of potato, soup or salad, and sautéed veggies. Pair your meal with a martini and enjoy a taste of Colfax Avenue’s swingin’, stylish earlier days. Black Hat Cattle Co. 26295 Hill Top Drive, Kittredge 303-670-0941 blackhatcattleco.com David Rodriguez’s Western-style steak- house is the youngest on our list at just nineteen years old, but the place is old-school in spirit. Rodriguez himself has decades of hospitality experience, and it shows at this charming eatery, where wagon wheels and animal heads decorate the wood-paneled walls and you’re likely to see the owner in the dining room wearing the black cowboy hat that gives the restaurant its name. The steaks, including the massive dry- aged Cowboy Ribeye, are hand-cut in the on-site butcher shop and come with bread and a choice of side. Buckhorn Exchange 1000 Osage Street 303-534-9505 buckhorn.com The Buckhorn Exchange delivers a Wild West experience at an old-timey spot that still has meaning for today’s diners. Before Henry “Shorty Scout” Zietz opened the Buckhorn in 1893, he rode with Buffalo Bill; in 1905, he fed President Teddy Roosevelt, then headed off with him to hunt big game. The menu is loaded with big game to this day, meat that demands a pretty big price tag. If you’re on a nineteenth-century budget, head to the historic bar on the second fl oor, where you can snack on Rocky Mountain oysters, enjoy entertainment and gaze upon all the taxidermied spec- imens distantly related to what might arrive on your plate. Columbine Steak House and Lounge 300 Federal Boulevard 303-936-9110 columbinesteakhouseandlounge.com For over sixty years, this no-frills spot has drawn crowds from lunch through dinner as those in the know fl ock here for fresh-cut steak dinners at a budget-friendly price. On one side is a walk-up counter where you place your order and pay (it’s cash-only) as the cooks expertly kiss various cuts of beef with just the right amount of fl ames. If you want table service, head to the bar side. Either way, what you’re going to get is a no-nonsense meal that comes with a slice of Texas toast, a baked potato liberally loaded with butter, a simple salad and a healthy dose of pure nostalgia. Denver Stockyard Saloon 4710 National Western Drive 303-298-0525 denverstockyardsaloon.com While it gets particularly busy during the annual National Western Stock Show, the Stockyard Saloon has the beef all year. This isn’t your typical steak- house; the menu leans more toward bar food. But that just gives you the chance to order a New York strip sandwich — a full-sized strip, not sliced or shaved — so you can grab your beef with both hands and eat like nobody’s watching. You haven’t really lived in Denver until you’ve dined at Bastien’s. continued on page 38 EVAN SEMÓN
