88 APRIL 6-12, 2023 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC & VENUES | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING & SERVICES | CONTENTS | Chinese restaurant, Zoe Ma Ma, boasts noodle dishes that span Asia, from Japan to Singapore to Vietnam to Taiwan. The stars, though, are the six ramen bowls. Dragonfl y Noodle is one of only two spots in town that make fresh ramen noodles in-house, and the deeply fl avored broths illustrate a dedication to traditional ingredients and methods paired with just enough experi- mentation — like a ramen piled with ten- der char siu ribs and another loaded with butter-poached Maine lobster tail — to set it apart from the pack. Best Dumplings Yuan Wonton 720-961-3406 Chef (or shef, as she prefers) Penelope Wong launched her food truck, Yuan Won- ton, in 2019 after quitting her executive- chef job of twenty years and practicing her dumpling skills for the better part of a year. Crowds line up, and pre-sales sell out in seconds as fans scramble for whatever she adds to the menu. But the highlight remains her expertly pleated dumplings, including plump xiao long bao, wontons in chile broth, Szechuan eggplant dump- lings and more. It’s also proving to be a big year for Wong, who snagged a James Beard Award nomination and is getting closer to opening a brick-and-mortar in Park Hill with two other small businesses (fellow food truck Pho King Rapidos and Sweets and Sourdough, a woman-led bakery). Best Japanese Restaurant Tokio 2907 Huron Street 720-639-2911 mytokio.com Miki Hashimoto ran Japon, a sushi spot in Washington Park, for nearly two decades before opening Tokio in 2014. While the inviting eatery serves sushi along with a variety of small plates and grilled fi sh, the real focus here is noodles. Before opening Tokio, Hashimoto returned to Japan to take ramen-making classes, an experience that’s refl ected in the commanding fl avor of the broths, which are loaded with plenty of col- lagen and fat from pork and chicken. While some stick to tradition, Tokio has unique creations as well, like the Cremoso Diablo, a spicy pork and chicken broth made with heavy cream and loaded with veggies and cha syu pork, then garnished with cheddar and Jack cheeses. Best Chinese Restaurant Star Kitchen 2917 West Mississippi Avenue 303-936-0089 starkitchenco.com Star Kitchen has been in business for over fi fteen years, and is well known for its dim sum, which draws a big crowd every week- end as fans fl ock here for char siu buns and cheung fun. But it also serves the best Cantonese fare in the city. If the line for weekend brunch has kept you away, visit on a weeknight for standouts like steamed fi sh garnished with aromatics, salt and pepper squid, Singapore-style rice noodles with shrimp and barbecue pork, and shredded pork in hot garlic sauce. Best Mapo Tofu Meet & Eat Bistro 10021 East Hampden Avenue 303-379-9627 meeteatbistro.com Meet & Eat debuted in the former Mr. Hao location on East Hampden in 2022, serv- ing up a wide selection of Szechuan fare. The menu includes items that are tough to fi nd at other eateries in town, including steamed eggplant with salted egg yolk and fried lamb with cumin. Meet & Eat’s take on mapo tofu is a standout, though, thanks to its bold flavor, Food and Drink continued from page 86 continued on page 90 GETT Y IMAGES
