86 APRIL 4-10, 2024 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC & VENUES | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING & SERVICES | CONTENTS | Best Cure for a Case of the Mondays Odyssey Italian Restaurant Pasta Deal 603 East 6th Avenue 303-318-0102 odysseyitalian.com Thanks to capitalism, just the thought of Monday strikes dread in the heart of those who work a traditional schedule — but the thought of a delicious bowl of pasta waiting at the end of the day can help most people get through it. If that bowl of pasta comes with bread and a Caesar salad for just $11.95, it’s an even better way to banish the hor- rors of the fi rst workday of the week. Odys- sey, which operates out of an old Victorian home, offers just that, along with a stellar waitstaff and an endearing atmosphere. Best Spaghetti and Meatballs Dio Mio 3264 Larimer Street 303-562-1965 diomiopasta.com It says a lot that with all the creative and seasonal pastas Michelin-recommended Dio Mio churns out, its spaghetti and meatballs is such a standout. Digging into the heaping portion of noods taps into nostalgia, but what keeps us coming back is the taste. Dio Mio cooks its pasta al dente, yielding a perfectly chewy, tender-firm texture that pairs well with its rich, velvety Bianco DiNapoli tomato sauce, which has a bright sweetness and well-balanced acidity. The meatballs are made with Colorado-raised pork and beef and are a savory, sweet, slightly gar- licky topper to the housemade spaghetti. Best Savory Cannoli Gallo Italian Supper Club and Bakery 3470 South Broadway 303-353-9917 gallosupperclub.com In Denver, “cannoli” can refer to the clas- sic Italian dessert, but often it’s actually a bready roll stuffed with meat and sometimes a strip of chile. A few old-school Italian joints like Lechuga’s shorten it to “canoli,” but at Gallo Supper Club, it’s spelled the same as the sweet version available from its bakery case. While it’s listed on the menu as being “mini,” this is a hefty snack fi lled with sausage, strips of jalapeño and plenty of mozzarella oozing out of the thin dough. Best Unexpected Persian Food Urban Cafe & Restaurant 601 Broadway 303-558-0088 urbancafedenver.com We fi rst tasted Frey Asgari’s Persian fare when he was serving it from under a tent in a parking lot on Santa Fe Drive in 2020. Now it’s re-emerged in a shiny new cafe that’s connected to the Denver Health building. Hospital employees have easy access to Urban’s smoothies and cheap breakfast sandwiches in the mornings and unusual lunch sandwiches (like the pistachio cream, burrata and mortadella option), but anyone can, and should, dine here. Our favorite order so far: the zereshk polo — slow-cooked chicken in a mild to- mato sauce alongside a heaping platter of saffron rice — paired with a fl oat made with carrot juice and Persian ice cream that’s infused with saffron, rose and bits of clot- ted cream. Best One-Vendor Food Court Mordy’s Falafel & Grill 701 South Monaco Parkway 720-312-8961 mordysfalafel.com Mordy’s Falafel has been serving Israeli street food since before the pandemic, pri- marily the namesake falafel jammed into fl uffy pita with all manner of tangy, salty, spicy and crunchy toppings. Late last year, the truck shifted just around the corner to a new position, wedged against the side of what was once a dry cleaner. Now, instead of baking in the sun or freezing on an icy winter day, you can simply step inside the building, order and pay for your food at a self-serve station, then pick up your grub from a window that opens onto the truck. The sign on the door reads “food court,” but this is a food court of one, and we love it that way. Best Instagram Pop-Up Sambusak’s Kitchen instagram.com/sambusakskitchen The latest project from Tamir Danon, co- owner and head brewer at Novel Strand Brewing Company, is his love letter to the fl avors of Israel offered with his trademark, no-nonsense approach to creating a menu: focusing on a few simple, well-executed items. While the Instagram crowd drools over Sambusak’s custom towers of grass- fed lamb and beef on vertical spits, the real MVPs are his freshly made falafel and sauces. Between the tangy ahmba, spicy skhoug and creamy tahina, each bite builds on the previous one, leaving you hungry for seconds. Best Pita Sandwiches Sonny’s Mediterranean 2622 West 32nd Avenue 720-479-8813 sonnysmed.com After moving to Denver in 2019, David Schloss landed a gig as a chef at Safta, but his ultimate goal was to open his own place. In 2023, that became a reality when, after two years of delays, the fast-casual Sonny’s Mediterranean debuted in LoHi. It’s named for the Great Pyrenees dog that belongs to Schloss and his fi ancée, Son- ny’s co-owner Lena Young. But the pita sandwiches are the real monsters here, nearly as big as the pup that often makes appearances at the eatery. Bursting with ingredients like hummus, Israeli pickles, harissa aioli and fries, they’re available in three varieties and come stuffed with a choice of falafel or, our favorite, Sonny’s fl avorful rotisserie chicken. It’s tough to eat these without Food and Drink continued from page 84 continued on page 90
