96 MARCH 27-APRIL 2, 2025 westword.com WESTWORD | MUSIC & VENUES | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT | SPORTS & RECREATION | SHOPPING & SERVICES | CONTENTS | Enchantment. Here, Hatch green chile reigns supreme and items like posole and red chile warm bellies night after night. There are lots of tasty vegetarian items on the menu, and every meat option is cooked to perfection. When your server asks the offi cial New Mexico state question, “Red or green?” at Santo, we recommend going for both. Best Actually Big Burritos Big Mama’s Burritos 7790 Federal Boulevard, Westminster 303-429-1885 3190 West 72nd Avenue, Westminster 303-650-2300 Denver has a lot of places to get a good burrito. At Big Mama’s, the menu offers a few simple choices for meats, includ- ing tender steak, juicy pork and an excel- lent bean-and-chicharrón option. Pick one and add some of Big Mama’s hot chile, which shines right through to lend a little kick. Then throw in the extras — onions, cheese, lettuce and tomato if you like — and it turns from a handful into a behemoth that’s delicious for both lunch and dinner. For something a little less gut-busting to fuel your mornings, check out the $5.50 daily breakfast burrito with rotating meats. Best 4 a.m. Burritos Tacos Los Compas 1385 Santa Fe Drive 720-328-0299 There was a time when Denver boasted a number of 24-hour eateries to satisfy your food hankerings in the wee hours. But then came the pandemic. Luckily, many 24/7 Mexican joints are still serving, including Tacos Los Compas, which took over what used to be a Taco Bell and kept it open, serving not only the local night owls, but also the new resident students on the nearby Auraria campus. Is it fi ne dining? Nope. But is it delicious burritos as big as your forearm available at all hours? Yes, yes, gracias, yes. Best Picadillo Burrito JLR Burritos 720-346-1400 Picadillo can be found across Latin America, made in various ways. In Mexico, it usually consists of beef and potatoes cooked in a red tomato base seasoned with bay leaves, thyme and garlic, with peas and minced carrots of- ten mixed in. It’s a staple of the Mexican diet and one of the few beloved non-spicy dishes. While it’s commonly served on a tostada with sour cream, in northern Mexico, you can fi nd it rolled in a fl our tortilla to form a hearty, savory burrito. North of the border, it’s almost impossible to fi nd unless you’re in Denver near 13th Avenue and Sherman Street, where JLR Burritos sets up its food truck. Its signature JLR burrito is a picadillo version with classic Mexican-style ingredi- ents and fl avor. It’s a rarity, and JLR offers it with your choice of salsa, including our favorite, a creamy guacamole. Best Tortas Tortas ATM 3143 West 38th Avenue 303-433-1764 Tortas a Toda Madre, aka Tortas ATM, is an essential stop for Denver sandwich lovers and Mexican food fans. These are sandwiches that fi re all of the primal nerve endings running from your tongue to your brain. A variety of options awaits any cus- tomer looking for a just-sturdy-enough torta roll layered with fatty, salty, tangy, peppery, meaty, cheesy goodness. There are numer- ous combinations of pork leg, ham, breaded steak, hot dogs and turkey tails, properly dressed and covered in melty cheese. Add some of ATM’s punchy red or green salsa for the ideal fi nishing touch on these beauties. Best Weekly Cookout La Reyna Del Sur 3738 Morrison Road instagram.com/lareynadenver Ancestral Oaxacan fl avors are resurrected every Sunday morning at Re:Vision Co- Op on Morrison Road in west Denver by the team at La Reyna Del Sur. Snow or shine, chef Rubén Hernández, his sister Jessie Hernández Food & Drink continued from page 94 continued on page 98
