TASTE 2025 miaminewtimes.com 6 TASTE 2025 miaminewtimes.com it feels less like Miami than like a quiet, reverent corner of Japan. Chef and co-owner Masayuki Komatsu presides over a meticu- lous 19-course menu that unfolds in two acts. The first hour is de- voted to zensai: a curated selection of starter plates from the kitchen, both hot and cold. As the evening transitions into its second hour, the sushi portion begins, with a parade of seasonal nigiri followed by a hand roll, miso soup, tamago, and a delicate dessert to finish. Jazz hums softly in the back- ground as diners sit at a low wooden counter, watching the chefs work with a quiet precision that borders on meditation. Out- side, a Zen garden offers a tranquil escape to sip small-production sake, drowning out the city’s din. Ogawa’s $350 experience — part cultural immersion, part cu- linary masterclass — feels closer to Osaka than to Miami. The res- taurant’s name, which translates to “little river,” honors both the neighborhood and the restau- rant’s Japanese roots. “Ogawa is about connecting people to Japanese culture,” Perez Miranda explains. Accolades followed swiftly, including a Michelin star. In discussing what sets his restaurants apart from the many sushi spots across the city, Perez Miranda says meticulosity is the name of the game. “In all of our restaurants, no matter the level, the attention to detail has to be there. In Hiyakawa, for example, we greet you with a hot towel or a cold towel, de- pending on how the weather is,” he shares as an example. “In addition to serving top- notch product, the vibe we put into our restaurants is also im- portant. We’re friendly, we have a good attitude, and we love what we do. That’s something people can’t see but they can feel.” The staffs are rigorously trained, and some even get a chance to travel to Japan to im- merse themselves in the culture. “I pick one of my employees, and I bring them with me on my annual trips Japan so they can experience it. It’s a pricey thing to do, but I like it. For them, it can be a life-changing experience.” The goodwill-ambassador nod from Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries emphasizes Perez Miranda’s role as a cultural bridge, promoting the traditions he so deeply respects. “I feel honored to be recognized by the Japanese government. Now I have that responsibility to keep doing what I’m doing the best way I can. Being the first Latino in this role is really meaningful to me,” he says. The restaurant was one of only three new Miami restau- rants to receive a Michelin star last year — not to mention “Best Japanese Restaurant” honors in New Times’ 2024 Best of Miami issue and a perfect 5.0 rating from reviewers on Google. Perez Miranda’s ambitions stretch far beyond sushi. It’s a vision that aims to elevate Miami as a global destination for Japanese cuisine. He also plans to expand his growing empire with restaurants spe- cializing in diverse aspects of Japanese culinary traditions. “I have a few other projects in the pipeline with Japanese cuisine that aren’t sushi,” he says. “The sushi market is a little saturated, so I want to apply the same philosophy — focusing on a few amazing products — but in a different way. Stay tuned for details,” he adds with a wink. But his aspirations don’t end there. Perez Miranda dreams of bringing his flagship Hiyakawa concept to Japan, a move that would complete the cultural circle he began decades ago. “I want to put Miami on the map for Japanese food, so why not bring a concept back to Japan?” he says. “Miami’s culinary scene has grown tremendously, but there’s still so much untapped potential. I want to keep push- ing the boundaries of what Japanese cuisine can be in this city — and beyond.” WabiSabi. 851 NE 79th St., Miami; 305-890-7228; wabisabimiami.com. Hiyakawa. 2700 N. Miami Ave., Miami; 305-333-2417; hiyakawamiami.com. Midorie. 3444 Main Hwy., Co- conut Grove; midoriemiami.com. Ogawa. 7223 NW Second Ave., Miami; ogawamiami.com. World Red Eye photo Masayuki Komatsu, Alvaro Perez Miranda, and Royce Appling World Red Eye photo Omakase from p4
