TASTE 2025 miaminewtimes.com 1414 I n a city more associated with cafecitos and pastelitos than bagels, El Bagel has been able to win over Mi- ami, one tasty sandwich at a time. Founded by Matteson Koche in 2017, this Miami-born bagel shop has grown from humble begin- nings into a local favorite with a cult following — and now, a burgeoning national reputation. Named one of the “Very Best” bagels outside New York by Bon Appétit in 2023 (and chosen “Best Bagels” by New Times as recently as last year’s Best of Miami™ issue), El Bagel continues to re- define what a great bagel can be. Matteson Koche didn’t set out to make traditional New York-style bagels. He wanted to bring an artisanal bagel to Miami, inspired by the small, indepen- dent operations he encountered during his surfing trips across the country — especially in LA, where bagel shops felt more personal and fun. “No one was doing that here,” he recalls. Armed with zero formal baking experience, Koche spent months perfecting his recipe in his girlfriend’s kitchen. Early attempts often resulted in bagels that were either too dense or lacked the chew he was aiming for. A breakthrough came when he began experimenting with cold fermentation, which he credits for giving his bagels their signature texture and flavor. This trial-and- error phase ultimately led to the hand-rolled, preservative-free bagel that would become El Bagel’s hallmark. What began as a side hustle — selling bagels from his car via Instagram — quickly evolved. Koche moved to a makeshift food truck parked behind Boxelder Craft Beer Market in Wynwood, where weekend lines became the norm. “When my girlfriend’s kitchen got too small, I bounced around different commissary kitchens,” he says, crediting lo- cal chefs like Justin Flit (Proof) and Michael Beltran (Ariete) for offering him space to meet growing demand. By the time El Bagel opened its first brick-and- mortar location in the MiMo District in March 2020, its repu- tation was firmly established. Bagel purists have long dismissed Miami as lacking a proper bagel scene. “New Yorkers love to tell you Miami isn’t a bagel town,” Koche says with a laugh. Rather than try to replicate a New York-style bagel, Koche took a different approach. “I was after just an artisanal, freshly made bagel,” he says. “I wanted it to be something that was made with a sourdough starter, cold-fermented, boiled, free of preservatives or conditioners, with just five ingredients: flour, water, salt, barley, yeast.” South Florida already had its share of bagel shops, but most used artificial preserva- tives to keep their bagels soft and fluffy for days. “Ours don’t have those chemicals, so after one day, they’re no longer good,” Koche notes. El Bagel’s prod- uct is designed to be enjoyed fresh. “It’s an artisanal product made by hand,” Koche says. (Pro tip: If you buy more than you can consume within a day or two, you can freeze them.) El Bagel’s baked goods are the result of a meticulous three-day process. “We mix the pre-fer- ment, roll the bagels the next day, and then let them cold-ferment before boiling and baking,” Koche explains. “It’s all about developing flavor and texture.” This method — rooted in traditional techniques — produces bagels with a crisp exterior and a soft, chewy interior. Because of the extensive labor process behind them, once they sell out, they’re gone for the day. Local sourcing is another point of pride. Smoked salmon comes from Hialeah’s St. James Smokehouse. “Our lox is smoked fresh at 4 a.m., delivered to us by 9 a.m., and it’s never frozen,” Koche note. “That freshness makes a huge difference in both texture and taste.” Bacon comes from Proper Sausages in Miami Shores, and guava marmalade from PG Tropicals in the Redland. “We’re not just making bagels in Miami; we’re making bagels that are Miami,” says Koche. The “King Guava” sandwich, for example, pairs cream cheese, a fried egg, guava marmalade, and potato sticks. It’s a playful hom- age to the city’s culinary staples. The sandwich that holds the most meaning for Koche, how- ever, is the Original. “It’s been on our menu for eight years now,” he shares. “It’s such a simple sandwich but a crowd favorite, especially among local chefs. It’s just scallion cream cheese, ba- con, and oven-roasted jalapeños. It’s got everything: bacon, spice from the jalapeño, scallion cream cheese so you get your onion fix. You can grab it, and it El Bagel is one of Miami’s most celebrated culinary success stories. BY MICHELLE MUSLERA Hole Hearted El Bagel photo >> p16 “We’re not just making bagels in Miami; we’re making bagels that are Miami.”
