TASTE 2024 miaminewtimes.com 12 and celebrities alike. During the ‘90s peak of South Beach glamour, the cast of Miami Vice, including Don Johnson, frequented the establishment. “Lauren Hutton and all the top models would dine at Toni’s after their photo shoots,” Yoko remembers. “That was when South Beach was at its height.” A decade in, Takarada was overseeing a flourishing Wash- ington Avenue empire, capital- izing on the South Beach boom with Thai Toni four blocks to the south and, for a time, Toni’s Chinese Chrysanthemum a few doors up from Toni’s Sushi. Not to say it was easy. Run- ning multiple restaurants is a challenge in the best of times, and the turn of the millennium brought unwanted controversy and national headlines when Takarada made a racially charged remark to a Black patron regard- ing tipping. The local NAACP picketed his restaurants, the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau expelled him, and both the offended party and the Florida state attorney general sued him for discrimination. Takarada apologized, and, eventually, the controversy dis- sipated. As the boom continued, more Takarada restaurants opened on South Beach. Some, like World Resource Cafe, lasted for more than ten years, then closed. Thai Toni morphed into, of all things, a Chinese restaurant. Through it all, Toni’s Sushi Bar remained. Same location. Same landline. Same focus on simplic- ity and the highest quality of fish, much of it flown in from Japan. Toni and Lilly Takarada died of cancer within ten days of one another in 2012. Toni was 61, Lilly, 62. By that time their children had taken the helm, leading a team of dedicated Toni’s veterans. While Yoko continued as general manager, Kevin moved to New York to con- tinue his career on Wall Street. In 2017, he returned to his roots and opened a fast-casual sushi restau- rant in Manhattan, which now boasts multiple NYC locations. Kevin Takarada says Toni’s owes its longevity to the restau- rant’s straightforward approach, evident in presentations like the omakase, a selection of nine pieces of top-grade nigiri or sashimi priced at $85 and $95, respectively, that showcases an unwavering dedication to pure, unadulterated flavors. Other Toni’s favorites include salmon carpaccio, thinly sliced with Toni’s signature dressing of mayo and chives, and the usuzukuri, paper-thin cuts of fish arranged in the shape of a flower, served with ponzu. “It’s all about consistency,” Kevin says. “Consistency of the food quality, value, ser- vice. And key to all that has been our enduring staff.” “We know that we’re not Zuma or Makoto, nor do we want to be,” he adds, referencing sleek spots in Brick- ell and Bal Harbour, respectively. He proudly notes that some of Toni’s staff members, including general manager Susan Fnu and head sushi chef Toshiya Sato, have been with the restaurant for more than 20 years. “I think our team knows that we’re maintain- ing something very special here.” Adds Yoko, “We have a very loyal waitstaff that’s been with us for a minimum of 12 or 13 years. Our clientele appreciates that. Going into a restaurant and be- ing welcomed by a friendly face that you’ve known for so long is unheard of in a city like Miami, much less South Beach. I have couples that come in that are grandparents now that started dating at Toni’s in the late ‘80s.” Both siblings are quick to note that Toni Takarada’s entrepreneurial spirit and dedication live on in the newly redesigned establishment. “My father made a big impact on people’s lives,” Yoko says. “To this day, I have custom- ers that come in and then cry to me when they find out that he passed away 12 years ago, or ex-employees that tell me about the good things my fa- ther did for them. My father’s name still comes up in meet- ings...His legacy lives on.” Despite South Beach’s current challenges, the siblings remain optimistic about the future. Kevin credits the clientele. “We are only as good as our cus- tomers, and we are very thank- ful for the years of patronage they provided. With this recent renovation, we want to give back by creating new experi- ences for them, in addition to the consistency and quality they are accustomed to,” he says. “I think everything is cyclical,” Yoko says. “Right now, down- town, Brickell, and Wynwood are at their height, but I do think the Beach will come back because it has something special. My father saw it 40 years ago, and I don’t see why it wouldn’t come back again.” Toni’s Sushi Bar. 1208 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 305-673-9368; tonisu- shi.com. Open daily from 5:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. It’s a fitting metaphor for our restaurant: steadfast, yet willing to evolve. M eet Josiah Cafiero, a food-content cre- ator with an interest in international cui- sine across South Florida. Since creating Josiah Eats in June 2020, he has amassed a fol- lowing that exceeds 500,000 across Instagram, YouTube, Facebook, and TikTok. Awash Ethiopian Restaurant (19934 NW Second Ave., Miami Gardens): The only Ethio- pian restaurant in Miami, and it’s amazing. My go-to orders are the doro wor, kitfo, and shiro. Farofa Taste of Brazil (14691 Biscayne Blvd., North Miami Beach): Coun- ter-service Brazilian restau- rant specializing in grilled meats. It’s great quality, af- fordable, and, most importantly, it’s delicious. Dumpling King (237 NE 167th St., North Miami Beach; and 2064 N. University Dr., Pembroke Pines): Dumpling King has become quite popular, and rightfully so! Get the soup dumplings and braised pork rice. Blind Tiger Experience (18167 Biscayne Blvd., Aventura): A hid- den sushi bar inside Reunion Kitchen Bar that’s good for spe- cial occasions and date nights. Yvrance Take-Out & Cater- ing (715 NW 119th St., North Mi- ami): My favorite place for Haitian food. Yvrance does a great job, and her stew goat is incredible. Make sure to say hi to her. Zaika Indian Cuisine (2176 NE 123rd St., North Miami): My favorite Indian restaurant. If you want something a little different, get the tandoori momos, mango curry, and goat biryani. HIDDEN GEMS JosiahEats JosiahEats Josiah Cafiero “JOSIAH EATS” 37 Years & Counting from p10
