Gems from p 29 Pulque’s version of a Cadillac margarita (a sub-style of the cocktail that uses headier booze) uses Codigo Blanco, Cointreau, and agave syrup infused with lavender. The lav- ender is scant yet seems to bring the te- quila, lime, and rich agave into total balance in an elusive way. It’s a satisfying drink in a town where the margarita bar is high. I found myself thinking similarly posi- tive cocktail thoughts while drinking across town at Testal Mexican Kitchen on Grand Avenue in Phoenix. The burrito shop offers many cocktails made with so- tol. The one I was sipping riffed lightly on the Paloma. Tart and fruity, almost totally bereft of sweetness, fresh as an ocean wave from grapefruit and carbonation, the cock- tail plays with gentle saline and grassy notes in ways the original doesn’t. The many bottles of sotol and many so- tol cocktails are just one reason to love this burrito joint, opened in late 2020 on the same boulevard as Bacanora and El Charro Hipster Bar and Cafe. Together, this stretch has grown into one of Phoenix’s greatest and most character-driven blocks for Mexican food and drink. Run by Fernando Hernández, Testal spotlights traditional preparations from Chihuahua doled out in burrito form. Tubs of picadillo, deshrebada verde, and chile Colorado are prepared in homestyle fash- ion in a tight space. Hernández strives to be true to the region, right on down to the sotol selection, the art, and the merchan- Closed On Tuesdays 2003 dise for sale. These burritos use flour tortillas — wildly fresh and fragrant ones. They are soft and pliant, lacking much chew at all, and they hug their fillings tightly. These babies are newborn, still beautifully warm from being griddled. The word “testal” re- fers to a dough ball pressed into tortillas; this restaurant’s name reflects its stretchy priorities. The chicharron burrito features soft bits of pork skin. Even through the heat, these have a humble porcine intensity that grows even more enjoyable once you add BILLS OF $35 OR MORE Dine-In or Take Out $5 OFF Not Including Combinations Dinner Only Expires 12/31/21 2050 N. Alma School Rd., #36 • 480.857.4188 sugary, milky notes and then trails out into a subtle-but-wild flourish of roasted, deeply earthy corn. Pinole is an indigenous drink with a sto- ried history on both sides of the border. In Sacaton, on Ramona Farms, on the Gila River Indian Reservation, you may be told about the history of drinking Pinole-based beverages for energy if you buy some of the farms’ pinole in dry form— crushed roasted corn. That such a pleasant version comes in to-go bottles at Testal is a bless- ing. I would roll by Testal for a quick bur- Pulque’s scallops, smeared with green mole. Chris Malloy beans and cheese ($.30 extra each). The deshebrada is another keeper. Melting, fla- vor-packed beef sops with green sauce that ripples with heat. Speaking of heat, Testal just added a new salsa negra to its roster. This salsa con- sists of sunset-orange oil floating atop dark bits of pulverized chile. It’s glorious — great dapped onto the chicharonnes. Testal has a trio of thoughtful aqua fres- cas worth exploring. The pinole, mixed from roasted corn, is the best. It leads with rito. It ranks in the top tier of burrito roll- ers in the city. I would come for a cocktail, or to sit and knock out some work after breakfast, or to taste sotol neat, or to feel good about the new generation of Mexican food. The newer guard is showing promise — both on the higher end and at places you can eat like a king for a few bucks. Pulque Fine Mexican Cuisine 9619 N. Hayden Road #108, Scottsdale 480-393-3556 Calamari $14 Flautas doradas $8 Bistec mole Amarillo $35 Codigo Margarita $16 Testal Mexican Kitchen 1325 NW Grand Ave. Suite #1 602-384-9993 Pinole $3.50 Burrito de deshebrada $5.00 Burrito de chicharron $4.50 Guacamaya stool $12 31 phoenixnewtimes.com | CONTENTS | FEEDBACK | OPINION | NEWS | FEATURE | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | PHOENIX NEW TIMES SEPT 23RD – SEPT 29TH, 2021 FULL BAR!
