Lom Wong from p 25 The Yam Mamuang Boran, a green mango salad with hand-torn shrimp, arrived to our table first. It was doused in fresh coconut cream, lime, and the distinct flavor of fish sauce. Toasted coconut, peanuts, and fried shallots gave the refreshing dish a nice crunch. The shrimp were sparse, so don’t expect hearty protein. A different take on protein, the Kaeng Hang Lay pork belly curry, came next. This dish is from Northern Thailand and the recipe lacks the often expected coconut milk that many Thai curries are known for. Tender pork belly adorned the aromatic stew, topped with ginger matchsticks, toasted peanuts, and a hint of tamarind. It’s best poured generously over the accompa- nying jasmine rice. As the evening drew on, the once- bustling dining room began to wind down. It’s been a busy few months for the Martins, who hand-pound their curry paste and hand-squeeze their coconut milk. The two had their firstborn, baby Noah, just a few weeks after their March opening. “Sunny was in the kitchen until the day before he was born,” Alex says. “She’s a badass.” She was probably cooking dishes like the Chu Bai Neung Boo Wak Now, lightly steamed squid in Thai chile, lime, and garlic sauce garnished with a generous portion of cilantro. It was just as refreshing, if not exactly as delicious, as the The Eleven Tigers, a smoky bourbon cocktail, and Thunder’s Pina Colada which has a savory fish sauce finish. mango salad. Definitely sip the spicy juice afterward. The Gai Tawt Won Pen, crispy fried chicken with Thai chile sauce, appeared last. It was a solid dish, crunchy and substantial, but it paled in comparison with the punchy flavors of its counterparts. The plates at Lom Wong are mighty in flavor, but small. We enjoyed four prior to dessert. One or two more would have been welcome. It can be pricey to fill up, so go with a group to get more bang for your buck and sample seasonal menu items that you may not be able to snag next time. Finally, it was time for dessert. The creme brulee kept it classic, though it was presented in two ways: the Tom Kha, a lemongrass and coconut version, close to the original, but with a twist, and the Roselle, named after a hibiscus species, was milky and sweet with a little bit of tang and a pale pink hue. Lom Wong’s menus are seasonal, so expect a new journey through Thailand, its flavors, and the Martins’ experiences every time you visit. “Food is more than what Natasha Yee is on the plate in front of you. There are stories, people who cooked it, generations of heritage and expertise. It’s a goal of ours to showcase and honor that,” Alex says. “When people come into our restaurant, they’re coming into our home and we’re cooking for them like they’re family.” Lom Wong 218 East Portland Street 360-622-9738 lomwongaz.com Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.to 3 p.m. 26 JULY 14TH–JULY 20TH, 2022 PHOENIX NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | FEATURE | NEWS | OPINION | FEEDBACK | CONTENTS | phoenixnewtimes.com
