trippy sip that’s equal parts exotic and ingenious — and just happens to be vegan. ▼ Café La Santisima Gourmet Taco Shop 4117 North 16th Street 602-254-6330 5932 West Glendale Avenue, Glendale 623-939-3292 La Santisima’s horchata is as famous as its extensive salsa bar. Developed from a family recipe, the cool, frothy drink comes crowned with chopped strawberry, canta- loupe, pecans, and specks of cinnamon for the perfect cool down between bites of salsa-spiked tacos. But the real refresher is the Yerbabuena Mint, a not-nearly-as- sweet sip that turns just three ingredients — sugar, fresh mint, and water — into the ultimate taco tamer. As well as picture-perfect strawberry horchata, Emilio’s serves guava, Jamaica, and horchata. Allison Young Waters of Life Beat the heat with the best horchatas and aguas frescas in Phoenix. BY ALLISON YOUNG W hen the temperature rises so does your thirst and there’s nothing like a some- times fruity, some- times frothy, but always refreshing agua fresca to quench it. Across metro Phoenix, you’ll find traditional flavors at taquerias but the sky is the limit on these Mexican drinks. Phoenix offers vegan versions and creative twists to savor everywhere from farmer’s markets to rooftop patios. Here’s where to drink the best aguas frescas in the Valley. Emilio’s Tacos & Hotdogs 13803 North 19th Avenue 602-810-1468 There are strawberry horchatas and then there’s Emilio’s strawberry horchata. This sinfully decadent sip starts with housemade horchata and ends with a fruity syrup, thick with chunks of real fruit, that slowly oozes into the horchata, turning the whole thing jewel-toned red and pink. Almost smoothie thick, each mouthful tastes simultaneously creamy and tart with a velvety sweetness. A bright spot in North Phoenix with a modern interior and drive-thru, Emilio’s sweet and savory menu also includes standout Sonoran hotdogs, asada fries, fried ice cream, and churros. The Garfield Phoenix 924 East Roosevelt Street The food menu at The Garfield is small but mighty, much like the retro diner itself. Just five items strong, the menu includes carne asada tacos made with premium flank steak, super-stuffed burritos that are almost too big, and a combo plate with a side of pinto beans that’ll turn non-bean lovers into believers. Husband-and-wife owners Oswald “Ozzie” Fuentes and Shannon Moss put the same care into their horchata, a recipe that comes from Fuentes’s mother. Made from scratch using long grain rice, evapo- rated and condensed milk, sugar, Mexican vanilla, and whole cinnamon sticks, the secret is in the mixing process. “I have a method for combining every- thing so you end up with a very sweet, creamy, and smooth horchata,” Moss says. They also offer a horchata float with vanilla ice cream, a dreamy horchata cold brew coffee, and a spiked horchata cocktail made with Kahlua. Testal Mexican Kitchen 1325 Grand Avenue 602-384-9993 If you think you’ve tried every flavor of agua fresca, you haven’t tried them at Testal. The Grand Avenue spot is known for its Chihuahua-style burritos and housemade tortillas, but the aguas frescas really stand out. As well as the familiar flavor of Jamaica, Testal serves two homespun standouts: Iskiate, a natural energy drink made with fresh lime juice, chia seeds, and agave nectar, a pucker-up pick-me-up that’s sour and slightly gelatinous, and, Pinole, an oat milk and roasted ground corn sweetly satis- fying sip that tastes entirely original. Imagine roasted marshmallow-meets-corn on the cob with an earthy edge you’ll savor down to the last swig. Tortas Manantial Multiple locations The aguas frescas menu at Tortas Manantial is substantial. Available in sizes large and larger, the colorful array of drinks ranges from fruity (papaya, strawberry, water- melon, mango) to creamy (coconut, horchata) to novel (guanabana, mamey), all for under $6. If that’s not enough options, get creative and make your own combo (coconut and orange tastes like a Creamsicle). Always made to order with hand-sliced fruits and vegetables, as evidenced by the rows of whole pineapples and papayas lining the shelves, each drink is blended fresh and strained before your eyes for a fresher than fresh sip. We just wish the West Valley mini-chain would expand east. Belly Kitchen & Bar 4971 North Seventh Avenue 602-296-4452 Ordering horchata at Belly, the hipster Southeast Asian-inspired eatery and rooftop patio at Seventh Avenue and Camelback, may seem counterintuitive. Here, bartenders sling creative cocktails made with Thai basil, pineapple shrub, and tamarind salt while servers run crispy spring rolls, steaming clay pots, and funky fried rice to a clamoring crowd. But this isn’t your grandma’s horchata. These masters of flavor make rice milk by blending rice, water, and salt. They then simmer lemongrass and lime leaf until it turns into a tangy tea, before dissolving organic sugar cane and blue agave nectar for a kiss of sweetness. Finally, they blend it with coconut cream and coconut milk for a Tres Leches Café 1714 West Van Buren Street 602-368-1804 The aguas frescas at Tres Leches Café range from sweet to sweeter. Made fresh from mustachioed owner José “ET” Rivera’s recipes, the roster includes 12 flavors, including pina colada, prickly pear, coconut, agua de mazapan, horchata, and the sweetest of the bunch, Sundae la Rosa. This confection in a cup is inspired by chocolate-covered mazapan. More like a dessert than a drink, the latter is made with the popular peanut and powdered sugar Mexican candy and topped with chocolate sauce and a cherry. Add a shot of espresso to make it a “sucia.” Presidio Cocina Mexicana 519 West Thomas Road 602-279-8420 The recipe for Presidio’s award-winning horchata is a closely guarded secret. Ask your server and you’ll get a vague answer that includes some combo of rice milk, whole milk, evaporated milk, and cinnamon without any specifics. The person who does know is Lucina Nava. She brings her Michoacán-inspired family recipes, like housemade chorizo, fresh tortillas, and bold salsas, to Presidio. Needless to say, history, family, and love go into the recipe, resulting in a rich, nuanced drink with just the right amount of sweet that goes down smooth. Just Tacos and More 2910 North 32nd Street 602-675-3924 When you walk into Just Tacos and More, an unassuming strip mall spot at the corner of Thomas Road and 32nd Street, two beehive-shaped jugs of aguas frescas greet you along with a colorful sign announcing the flavors. Made fresh daily, you can count on horchata, served from a barrel brimming with almonds, pecans, coconut, diced strawberries, and apples sweetened with condensed and evaporated milk. The second flavor sways between papaya, watermelon, tamarindo, and cucumber limeade with a hint of mint. All of the creative concoctions sing with fresh fruit and tropical tastes. Whether you pair your drink with a ceviche tostada or an >> p 27 25 phoenixnewtimes.com | CONTENTS | FEEDBACK | OPINION | NEWS | FEATURE | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | PHOENIX NEW TIMES MAY 26TH– JUNE 1ST, 2022
