Allison Young Love from p 25 private events and groups), and every seat brings a different perspective with a similar feel. “The layers to the different spaces allow guests to use the space in multiple ways,” says Ashley, who steers date nights to the main dining room, happy hour with friends to the lounge area, and casual weekday dinners to the bar top. “The chef’s counter has been a really fun addition to the space. I feel like the guests who want to sit there are always a blast,” she says. The space is lovely, but the real love affair starts with the food. The one-page seasonal menu is refreshing in its simplicity and craveability. Each dish starts with a single ingredient — come- hither carrots that beckon with their brightness, meaty asparagus as thick as it is tender, whole grilled branzino, 28-day aged ribeye — that rises to new levels with jolts of barrel-aged fish sauce, fermented chili chimichurri, preserved Meyer lemons, or smears of robust romesco. “Dishes are driven in my world by one ingredient,” says Robb. “I try and surround that one ingredient with all the things I know that showcase it.” Chef Robb calls himself a big-picture 26 perfectionist, but the finer points are all there. A starter of grilled asparagus comes armed with creamy garlic tahini and horseradish gremolata for a creamy, crunchy, plate-licking treat. Whipped feta, which arrives looking like art with its array of colorful fruits and vegetables resting on a creamy feta cloud, quickly turns into a mess of dipping delight. The deliciously unfussy cacio e pepe transforms spaghetti, pecorino Romano, and black pepper into a mesmerizingly creamy plate of pasta under a blizzard of grated cheese. Clams come bathed in an herby, buttery, Sauvignon- spiked broth that you’ll happily sop up with the accompanying big piece of grilled bread. Echoing the experiences of his childhood, Robb shows love through food. A bartender making one of First & Last’s signature cocktails. The cocktail menu, designed by Cody Dickerson, shows the same refined restraint, skipping gimmicks for seasonal ingredients and playful spirits. Take The Scenic Route, which combines pisco, elderflower, Peychaud’s, and sparkling wine for a light, bright, floral sip. Things get boozier with the Fountain of Youth, a strawberry gin, bianco vermouth vehicle with notes of basil that’s more on the savory side. “Cody’s currently working on a strawberry and pickled-rhubarb spritz for the summer that we’ll be adding to the menu soon,” notes Ashley. The wine list is also meant to evolve and rotate, with selections by the glass and bottle that are neither standard nor trendy. “Some current favorites are a killer rosé out of Germany that’s got strawberry notes and great acidity, and a Txakolina out of Spain made by high school sweet- hearts who traveled the world together before returning to the Basque Country and starting a winery. It’s light, bright and semi-sparkling,” says Ashley. There are also local beers, sours, and ciders on tap, plus a surprise guest: “You can’t visit First & Last without trying Montenegro on tap,” Robb says of the Italian after-dinner digestif. When you’re all done and the bill arrives, you’ll be properly full. But beyond the empty plates, there’s a feeling of true satisfaction. “Service is what you provide; hospitality is how you make people feel,” says Ashley. “We operate under the belief that everyone who walks through our doors is an invited guest, and we aim to make them feel that way.” A love story from first to last. First & Last 1001 North Third Avenue 602-975-8297 firstandlastphx.com Hours: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday; closed Monday and Tuesday MAY 12TH– MAY 18TH, 2022 PHOENIX NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | FEATURE | NEWS | OPINION | FEEDBACK | CONTENTS | phoenixnewtimes.com
