25 March 30th–april 5th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | — a perfectly typical Japanese model, built as though specifically designed to frustrate American diners who prefer to saturate their rice with a pint of the stuff. Is Authentic Always Good? Maybe that’s part of the appeal. When it comes to international restaurants, we’re all obsessed with “authenticity” these days. We want the “real” cuisine, not that fake garbage. And if the place is packed with people who speak the language — like the group of ladies standing outside one recent evening — that’s just a sign you’re on the right track. After all, if it’s good enough for Japan, it should be good enough for us. But is that true? Honoring culture and tradition is a noble exercise and an important one. But the “people from that country eat there so it must be good” trope conveniently ignores the fact that folks all over the world visit restaurants for all kinds of reasons having nothing to do with food quality. Plus, everyone in Japan knows what traditional sushi is like, but does everyone in Japan have good taste in sushi? Anyone who thinks America has cornered the market in schlocky stunt food has clearly never visited Japan. We stand aghast when someone uses the wrong type of miso in a bowl of ramen. Meanwhile, in Tokyo, they’re dunking soft serve ice cream, cones and all, into theirs. And lest anyone suggest that a sushi chain in Japan wouldn’t be so popular if it wasn’t great, I’ll point out that the biggest, most successful hamburger restaurant in the U.S. is McDonald’s. So, is Kura authentic? Heck yeah, it is. But is it good? About that … Mechanical Delivery, Deplorable Sushi Take a simple slice of tuna atop a finger of sushi rice. At Kura, the rice’s texture leans towards amalgamated mush, but credit where it’s due: The flavor is nicely balanced, and you get a pronounced salty- sweet whiff of seasoned vinegar as it passes your lips. It’s better than the rice at the average Phoenix sushi joint, though that says more about the average Phoenix sushi joint than it does about Kura. The tuna, however, is an entirely different matter. I appreciate that Kura doesn’t gas their tuna to produce a freak- ishly pink hue, but the fish’s dank, yellow-brown pallor almost makes me wish they did. It tastes about as vibrant as it looks. The “real crab” gunkan — boat-shaped nigiri wrapped in nori — is filled with real crab, but honestly, I’d prefer the fake stuff. Kura’s finely minced mix is mostly flavor- less, all kinds of watery, and salty enough that you might want to remove your rings before engaging. Sockeye salmon — defrosted yet somehow a “seasonal special” — is a similarly squishy bite that has more than enough flavors going on, none of which are good. You might think the negitoro is a safer bet — the rich and fatty bits of tuna trim minced down with a bit of fresh scallion bite. You might also be wrong. It has the consistency of toothpaste and appears to have been extruded in similar fashion. Judging from the empty Mr. Freshes (Misters Fresh?), the beef sushi is quite popular, but I’m at a loss to understand why. The “premium American beef” is like a tough, unseasoned, ice-cold slab of deli roast beef smothering a smidgen of rice. As a sushi fan who prefers minimal simplicity, it kills me to say that you’re probably better off with rolls. They aren’t particularly good, even by American sushi standards, but at least the sauces obscure the funk. I’d detail some for you, but honestly, they all taste pretty much the same. Just pick one. Maybe avoid the Texan roll. A friend tasted its sticky yuzu cream and dubbed it “Nope Sauce.” Dominic Armato Fried salmon skin with blistered shishito peppers is a genuinely good dish. >> p27
