14 Dec 29th, 2022–Jan 4th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | The Best Things We Ate and Drank This Year BY NEW TIMES STAFF T hroughout the year, the Phoenix New Times food team eats at a lot of restaurants. But there are certain bites that stand out above the rest. These dishes leave us daydreaming for months until we can make it back to each restau- rant to indulge once more. Right here in the Valley, there’s a hot dog that brought one writer back to her home city, a burrito that transports you to Chihuahua, and handmade pasta that conjures images of Italy. These are the 10 best things we ate or drank around metro Phoenix in 2022. Coney Dog at Detroit Coney Grill 699 South Mill Avenue, #119, Tempe 480-350-7707 detroitconeygrill.com When you’re 2,000 miles away from the Motor City and the craving arises, Detroit Coney Grill is the spot to grab a Coney dog in metro Phoenix. Served atop a steamed bun with beanless chili, diced onions, and mustard, plus a fork and knife to cut through the sustenance, it’s a classic Detroit dog. Order it with a side of hand-cut fries for the full treatment. Owner Dave Najor is a native Detroiter, and the midwest city can be felt throughout his Valley restaurants, whether you head to the Scottsdale or Tempe location. Better Made Potato Chips and Faygo sodas are also available at the diner- meets-sports-bar, so settle in for a trip to “the D” without ever hopping on a plane. Dutch Baby at The Original Pancake House 6840 East Camelback Road, Scottsdale 480-946-4902 originalpancakehouse.com/ phloc_az_scottsdale.html The Original Pancake House, a humble diner connected to a Motel 6, has hailed from Scottsdale since 1988. Once you taste the Dutch Baby, you will understand why. An ode to the German pancake, the Dutch Baby puffs up like a soufflé when baked in its cast iron skillet, then falls before reaching the table. It’s sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with a lemon wedge and butter. And though it takes about 20 minutes to bake from scratch, this little baby is worth every minute. Go for the junior version or order a full-size Dutch Baby and maybe share with your amigos. Owner Ron Horton swears by the dish, his favorite among a menu of other tried and true classics at his diner filled with teal upholstered booths and old- school hospitality. Elote at Eric’s Family BBQ 12345 West Indian School Road, Avondale 623-248-0148 ericsfamilybbq.com The draw at Eric’s Family BBQ in Avondale is undeniably the exceptional smoked meats. Make sure to try the peppery ribs and don’t overlook the sweet tea-infused turkey served in this cozy, white adobe building. But the best bite of all at Eric’s is one of the sides. The Texas-style joint puts a southwest spin on typical barbecue sides with its elote. The bright yellow sweet corn comes served in a styrofoam cup, esquites style, and is topped with crumbled cheese and a sprinkle of paprika. But while this side looks like a traditional Mexican street food staple, the texture sets it apart. The corn is bathed in a thick, creamy sauce, almost like macaroni and cheese. The ooey-goey nature puts it squarely back in the realm of perfect sides to accompany rich meat and tangy barbecue sauce. Next time, we’ll order double. Hand Cut French Fries by Der Wurst Hot Dogs at Linger Longer Lounge 6522 North 16th Street 602-694-0342 lingerlongerlounge.com Der Wurst Hot Dogs derwursthotdogs.com The fries at Linger Longer Lounge are total memory makers. The first thing to singe your brain is the sheer volume. Forget a regular-sized portion, these crowd- pleasers are built for, well, a crowd. Picture a full basket of not-too-thick, not-too-thin sticks of deep-fried delight confidently crowded together, burnished edges begging to be eaten. Then there’s the taste which comes down to technique. Chef Nicholas Hyche, who operates Der Wurst Hot Dogs inside Linger Longer Lounge, puts the humble potato through its paces, rinsing, refrigerating, and double frying, first to wake up the starches and then to crisp up the outside, before finishing with salt and a side of curry ketchup. If you’re sharing, expect the table to start out politely enough with a single fry dip-eat- repeat cadence, but when you hit the halfway mark, it’s a no-holds-barred grab fest. And with all that double dipping indulgence for just $7, these fries will have you coming back for more. Jalapeño Cheddar Bagel at Bagelfeld’s Bagels 2940 East Thomas Road 602-772-6229 bagelfeld.com The jalapeño cheddar bagel at Bagelfeld’s isn’t just a hand-rolled, freshly-baked, crusty creation that works both as a stand- alone and the ultimate sandwich vehicle, it’s an engineering feat that thankfully owner Charles Blonkenfeld was willing to solve. Cutting the jalapeños was the first challenge. Put them in a food processor and they quickly turn into a mushy mess, so he slices them super thin on the mandolin. Dispersing the cheese was the next dilemma, but Blonkenfeld came up with a downright delicious solution: By sprinkling shredded cheddar on the pan and then baking the bagel on top, he created a cheese-in-every-bite, crunchy coating that, thanks to the moisture content, makes the finished bagel even fluffier. Put it together and it’s a carby, salty standout with a hint of spice and a cheesy finish that pulls off the impossible. Rajas at Testal 1325 Grand Avenue, #1 602-384-9993 testalphx.com The burritos at Testal Mexican Kitchen are unusual. They are relatively small and they come open on both ends. Does this mean they’re messy? Yes. But the pillowy tortillas and savory fillings pack so much punch, you won’t care. Tender birria complete with bright red oil catches attention on the plate and is definitely delicious, but the filling that rises above the rest is the rajas. These thin, almost-black strips of roasted poblano peppers are less intensely spicy than other variations in town, which makes them all too easy to inhale. But slow down, and enjoy the flavors and textures of the creamy sauce, melty cheese, and soft onions, even as they drip down your hands. Testal is a Grand Avenue gem, located a mere block away from the national restaurant sweetheart Bacanora. But the food here is different. Bacanora specializes in wood-fired Sonoran specialties. At Testal, the focus is all Chihuahua. The duo bookends the block with dizzying flavors. But if you’re looking to get back to some- thing simple and delicious that gets stuck in your head, order the rajas at Testal. Rosso Creste di Gallo at Fat Ox 6316 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale 480-307-6900 ilovefatox.com Fat Ox, a modern, high-end restaurant that sits on the border between Scottsdale and Paradise Valley, is a destination spot that treats customers right. Servers, who don black-tie uniforms, provide little stools to put your purse on, heaven forbid it touch the floor or hang on the back of your chair. Wine is served from individual decanters. And there’s valet parking. All of this sets an expectation for excellence in the meal. A plate of fresh bread served first is an indi- cation of what’s to come. Scallops, salmon, and Ribeye fill the entrees section of the menu, but be sure not to look past the pastas, the Rosso Creste di Gallo, in particular. The individual pieces of house- made pasta are a wine-shade of purple and maintain a sturdy and satisfying bite. Earthy mushrooms are brightened with pops of huckleberries and dandelion greens. But the stars of the show are thin slices of rich duck sausage that make the dish feel both decadent and hearty. Just like the rest of the restaurant, this dish feels fit for a special occasion. ▼ Café The elote and frijoles at Eric’s Family BBQ. Tirion Morris
