21 Dec 12th-Dec 18th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Classic and Creative New Mesa restaurant Guadalupe on Main serves Mexican fare with flair. BY SARA CROCKER M esa’s downtown Main Street has been steadily growing its array of excel- lent dining and drinking options. Just a few years ago, it was a place that felt on the cusp of a renaissance. Now, it seems Main Street has arrived. But, Mesa is massive, encompassing much more than its downtown core. With the addition of Guadalupe on Main, owners Michael “Dirty Mike” Schreier and Alysia Gratton are making the case to keep driving just a bit farther east. Their restau- rant opened on the corner of Main Street and Hunt Drive in September. The couple got the blessing of the owners of Casa Ramos Redux, a Jalisco- inspired restaurant, to take over their sleek space and recipes, turning the concept into the Guadalupe on Main. The menu shows commitment to keeping staples of the former restaurant — such as carnitas, enchiladas and tampiquena — while allowing the new chefs to create unique offerings including a hot chicken sandwich dipped in salsa macha and a fried mushroom appetizer. On a recent visit, we opted to try a bit of the old and the new, starting with that Mushroom Calamari. Clusters of mari- nated mushrooms are breaded and fried, served with lemon wedges and a spicy kimchi-spiked dipping sauce. The mush- rooms offer the characteristic chew of fried calamari, but the breading is heavier, almost like a chicken fry. It’s a savory treat that has warm notes of sesame oil. A squeeze of lemon brightens each bite and the accompanying sauce offers even more zip. For the next course, we opted for some of the more traditional entrees. A large platter of carnitas and a pair of mole enchi- ladas hit the table. Carnitas — or any pulled pork for that matter — is a tricky business. The pork can dry out, or worse, become a mealy, mushy mess. No such technical issues plagued the Guadalupe’s roasted pork plate, which was scattered with both juicy chunks of meat and craggy, crisp tendrils. The pork was flecked with bits of caramelized onion, jalapeno and tomato providing additional flavor and texture. The rich meat is best enjoyed tucked into a corn tortilla with crunchy cabbage, a dollop of guacamole and a drizzle of the warm, citrusy braising liquid that’s served on the side. The chicken mole enchiladas are made with a Jalisco-style sauce which leans sweeter, with flavors of chocolate and caramel. While initially surprising, the mole was a craveable sauce that kept us coming back for more. Both plates came with cilantro rice and thin, dip-like refried beans. If you start your meal with the Guadlupe’s chips and fiery salsas, save a few crisps to plunge into your pot of beans. When it comes to cocktails, the Guadalupe packs an added punch. Schreier has slung drinks around Mesa for a decade, and at his new restaurant, the experienced mixologist has brought folks he’s worked with along the way. He and head bartender Seth Sherwood, have created a fun and refined bar program. Naturally, the centerpiece tipple is the Guad Margarita. You can keep it simple and go with the house style (which will only set you back $8) or choose your own adventure. Customize your cocktail by selecting from different agave spirits or adding flavors for an upcharge. While that option alone could offer limitless satisfying sips, don’t skip the bar’s other cocktails. The Watermelon Moonshine is a complex drink that pairs smoky mezcal with herbal but sweet Aperol and a Swiss aperitif. Lime and watermelon add familiar sweet-tart juiciness. The cocktail is finished with a bit of thyme — a fresh sprig that reinforces the herbal notes of the spirits. It’s a thoughtful drink that’s worth savoring. The Guadalupe team’s insistence on paying homage to the past while adding their own flair is working. As they find their footing just a skip away from Mesa’s down- town district, we’re looking forward to seeing how the team continues to stretch. Guadalupe on Main 1526 E. Main St., Mesa The mole at The Guadalupe on Main leans sweeter, but chicken enchiladas topped with the craveable sauce leave us coming back for more. (Photo by Sara Crocker) The Mushroom Calamari is a surprising, savory starter that shouldn’t be missed. It gets added zip from a kimchi-infused dipping sauce. (Photo by Sara Crocker) ▼ Food & Drink
