20 Dec 5th-Dec 11th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | full payment upfront, it dovetails with the need to balance rising costs and labor expenses while literally putting food on the table. The planning required for every menu, something that for Jones is a six- or seven-week process, leaves less room for surprises. “With fine dining, you’re able to get rid of the guessing you have in casual dining, where you’re open every day and don’t know how many people are coming in,” says Jones, who is fine with customers donning cocktail attire or jeans and a polo shirt to his new spot. “You’re prepared and you have more set numbers. But, you’re keeping the overall feel more casual.” On the flip side, the financial impact of the global shutdown made customers seek more relaxed dining experiences. During the pandemic and just coming out of it, customers wanted affordability and craved comfort. But as time went on, the dining public became ready, once again, to spend more, to enjoy upscale experiences and extravagant eats. And through this reinvention came revival. “There was a rumor that fine dining is dead,” Jones says. “But fine dining, it’s back.” Social media, bloggers influence a welcoming, unstuffy scene Kai’s general manager, Kevin Shirley, says fine dining has become more welcoming than it was 15 years ago. “It was very stuffy and very stern. Fine dining has progressed to where we want everyone to feel comfortable dining in our restaurant,” he says. “Fine dining should be accessible to all people, although the price point may dictate that a bit.” Much has to do with the relaxation of attire. Kai’s dress code that forbade flip flops, shorts and hats and dissuaded denim was lifted two years ago, partly due to the increased summer heat. Today, it’s a fluid “business casual.” Social media platforms that allow anyone to be a food critic have also played a role. Bloggers and review sites like Yelp draw new customers into restaurants in a way that old-school printed reviews or features used to, making it easier for restaurants to get discovered. “I can’t remember when a magazine article had as big of an impact as a blogger or social media,” says Stratta, who will lead the culinary program at the luxury Fairmont Residences Phoenix slated to open next year. Jones says the true fine diner, or someone who frequents these establish- ments on a regular basis, is a small percentage of his clientele. The vast majority are customers celebrating a special occasion or those yearning to check out the city’s new, buzzy hot spot. The dining demographic is also getting younger. “With the advent of social media, Arizona is a place that likes to follow trends,” Jones says. The popularity of cooking shows on channels like The Food Network and Instagram, has made people more comfort- able with fine dining dishes compared to 20 years ago, explains Cory Oppold, chef and owner of COURSE, a Scottsdale tasting-menu-only restaurant he opened in May 2023. Oppold, whose resume features lauded spots like Tarbell’s and the former Binkley’s, says that post-pandemic, people wanted comfort food in a somewhat nostalgic setting. He doesn’t think that meant fine dining slipped, but rather found a place in customers’ lives where it made sense, financially, or when they felt like treating themselves. Before, in the tradition of Mary Elaine’s, diners went to fine dining establishments as a regular part of their week or month in addition to grand celebrations. But in recent years, it has become less routine. This motivates chefs and restaurateurs to step up their game. “The food should be good, very focused with laser precision. That’s our job as chefs,” Oppold says. “But there needs to be above and beyond hospitality, a nice feel- good atmosphere where they belong.” Shirley sees the Valley as not only some- where fine dining belongs, but somewhere that it can continue blossoming and emerging. “People once thought that Phoenix was all Mexican food, and was never the case… We’re going to be able to go toe-to-toe with larger coastal cities and food meccas and hubs,” Shirley says. “It’s getting larger and I can’t wait to see what it will become.” On Sunday mornings, a more casual, nostalgia-inspired concept called Morning Would takes over Course to offer a six-course brunch. (Courtesy of COURSE) Chef Cory Oppold opened his Scottsdale tasting-menu-only restaurant COURSE about a year and a half ago. (Courtesy of COURSE) More than Food from p 19
