26 Nov 24th–Nov 30th, 2022 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | the caramelized apple notes of a freshly baked pie, Rieve explains. Food: Cherry Pie Wine: Callaghan Vineyards’ Buena Suerte The composition may change slightly with each vintage, but this Bordeaux-style red blend is typically anchored by a stately cabernet sauvignon which is a match for the juicy boldness of a tart or sweet cherry filling and buttery crust. “Its well-rounded tannins and bold red fruit flavors will hold up to the naturally rich essence of this pie,” Schoenemann says. Food: Pecan Pie Wine: Chateau Tumbleweed’s Mourvedre This Rhone variety has an edge specific to Arizona terroir that leans a bit wild and maybe funky at times. However, when paired with sweet pie, it’s an ideal foil. “It’s a light, acidic red with spicy red fruit and earthy notes, which goes well with the nutty intensity of the pecan pie without overpowering the flavor,” Rieve says. Food: Pumpkin Pie Wine: Merkin Vineyards’ Chupacabra Blanca Last but not least, the perennial must-have is of course, pumpkin pie. This white blend from Merkin Vineyards gets a boost from riesling, which is one of the mainstream go-to wines with turkey. But in this presen- tation, it brings its dessert game. “It has notes of citrus and slight miner- ality that compliment that savory spice of a pumpkin pie,” Schoenemann says. grown to love as a traditional pumpkin pie. Or, they go overboard. Tarbell’s dessert expert De Leon says the key to finding the perfect balance is tasting the filling along the way before it hits the oven. “Often, people overuse the spices and put a lot of nutmeg in it. Those are very strong flavors,” De Leon says of the usual warming spices that also include the likes of cinnamon and clove. “Just make sure you’re tasting it. You can always add but you can never take it out.” In addition to different crust options and spice blends, there are also choices to make on the type of pumpkin in your pie. You can use canned pumpkin puree or roast your own pumpkin, peel and seed it and then puree it in the food processor. When going the canned route, be sure it’s pumpkin puree and not pumpkin pie filling, which is made with other spices and seasonings, some of which you may not need. Plain pumpkin puree puts the flavor options back into the cook’s hands. When roasting fresh ingredients, Dumas prefers sugar pumpkins for her family’s pies. De Leon likes to incorporate other members of the squash family into the mix, like butternut squash, sweet potatoes, or yams. “It will still be a pumpkin pie but with a little more complexity in flavor and texture as well,” De Leon says. Pie for All Craving a vegan version? Jason Wyrick, the executive chef of The Vegan Taste, offers easy substitutions to the recipe of your choice to please the plant-based diners at your table. And it starts with a surprising secret: silken tofu. Unlike the style that comes packed in water, this is packaged in a box and its super soft texture mimics that of an egg-based filling. “Puree it up with maple syrup, spices, and pumpkin puree. The tofu will act just like a custard,” Wyrick says. For those who plan to make their own crust from scratch, substitute a high-quality plant-based butter or shortening. Wyrick recommends Miyoko’s and Spectrum brands, explaining that these can be used as a one- to-one ratio to dairy butter and traditional shortening. He also recommends chilling the butter or shortening ahead of time. While some of the plant-based ingredi- ents’ jobs are to mimic their dairy counter- parts, Wyrick loves to kick his pies up a notch and that goes for the pumpkin renditions as well. He does this by adding a splash of adobo sauce from a can of chiles in adobo. “It complements the spices in the pie and adds a little zing to your dessert,” he says. Whichever route you choose, whether that be store-bought crust and canned filling, or a unique tofu and chile pie, the chefs agree, it’s best to bake your pie ahead of time. Let it cool and wrap it tightly in plastic to prevent other aromas and flavors from getting into the pie, and then place it in the fridge ready for the big day. Bottom line, don’t be intimidated by the process. “Have fun, don’t be afraid, and play with it,” De Leon says. – GEORGANN YARA Tips from p 22 Lindsey Schoenemann (left) and Emily Rieve, owners of GenuWine Arizona, recommend both red and white Arizona wines to pair with pies ranging from pumpkin and apple to cherry and pecan. Pairings from p 24 GenuWine Arizona