22 Nov 24th–Nov 30th, 2022 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | Pro Tips Valley chefs share their secrets to making the perfect pumpkin pie. T he turkey may be the official star of the Thanksgiving table, but when it comes down to it, everyone manages to save room for the finale: a slice of pumpkin pie. It’s such a hallmark of the holiday that it sparked its own spice blend that finds its way into muffins, cupcakes and, of course, lattes. There’s nothing wrong with heading to your favorite bakeshop to procure the meal’s sweet ending. Yet, there’s something about a homemade version that waxes culinary comfort and nostalgia. If that’s the route you’re taking and could use some guidance, three Valley chefs are here to share their secrets to a classic pumpkin pie. It’s All About The Crust Whether you opt for pre-made dough or take on the task of making it from scratch, the crust deserves to be addressed first. Adrian De Leon, the culinary director and dessert creator for Tarbell’s, prefers making his own in order to have control of the pie from start to finish. However, an uncooked store-bought frozen or chilled variety has its benefits, espe- cially for newbies. “Pre-mades are good for consistency. They’re always going to be the same. It depends on what people like and the time they have to put into the pie, but I have nothing against them for sure,” De Leon says. For either version, De Leon suggests pricking the raw dough in the pie plate and par-baking it before filling so everything gets properly cooked through. “If you don’t partially bake your crust and pour filling on it, it’s not going to completely cook and it gets soggy and not flaky,” he says. For from-scratch recipes, he recommends working with the dough as cold as possible by keeping it chilled in the fridge until you’re ready to roll it out. This helps ensure the end result is as flaky as possible, he says. Dana Dumas, founder of SugarJam The Southern Kitchen, agrees that temperature is key. In addition to using very cold unsalted butter and shortening and chilled flour, she keeps a bowl of ice water on the counter and dips her hands into it as she works. “Butter can melt very quickly, which softens the dough and makes it very glutenous. I chill my hands so I don’t heat it up,” Dumas says. “You want to work very quickly with it and line it into the pie tin.” Filling Facts When it comes to the filling, Dumas notices that at-home cooks often don’t whisk the mixture enough, allowing it to remain in a thicker, puree form. But thinner is better, she says. “If it’s their first time, they don’t realize how liquidy the filling will become. But it’s not a mistake. Especially for a pumpkin pie, that’s how it’s supposed to work,” Dumas says. Dumas recommends using either a hand- held or a large Kitchen Aid-style electric mixer to create the agitation needed for a good filling, rather than whisking by hand. When it comes to seasoning, achieving a good balance can be tricky. Some under season, not realizing that pumpkin needs a boost to taste like what we’ve all Pie Time How to make pumpkin pie like Dana Dumas of SugarJam The Southern Kitchen. BY GEORGANN YARA D ana Dumas made a splash in metro Phoenix 11 years ago when she started a small- batch cookie company. Since then, the chef and baker has continuously expanded her culinary reach in the Valley. She now owns SugarJam The Southern Kitchen, a popular north Scottsdale breakfast, brunch, and lunch spot that often garners long waits on week- ends. The restaurant features a bakery fully stocked with tasty treats including those famous cookies and her saught-after pies. Here, Dumas shares her personal recipe for the seasonal pie that flies off her shelves this time of year. What you’ll need: • One 15-ounce can of fresh pumpkin puree (Dumas likes Libby’s) • 1/4 cup of evaporated or whole milk • 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk • 1 teaspoon vanilla • 4 large eggs • 1 1/4 cup light brown sugar • 1 tablespoon cornstarch • 1/2 teaspoon fine kosher salt or fine pink Himalayan salt (Dumas prefers the balanced tone of Himalayan salt) • 1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (this gives a pop of freshness that pre-ground nutmeg won’t) • 1/8 teaspoon ground clove • 1 tablespoon milk • Pie crust, either homemade or store- bought, par-baked and cooled For the crust: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Whether using a homemade or uncooked pie crust, prick the bottom with a fork to allow steam to escape. Fill it with dried beans or pie weights. Crimp and cover the edges with aluminum foil. Bake at 350 degrees for six minutes. Allow to completely cool before filling. To make the pie: Whisk together the evaporated or whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, and vanilla, and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine all the spices, salt, and cornstarch and set aside. Scoop the pumpkin puree into the bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attach- ment. Fold in three of the four eggs and the milk mixture. Whip it until well combined. Add the brown sugar and the spice and cornstarch mixture and beat until fine. It will be liquidy but don’t worry, that’s what you want. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg with one tablespoon of milk to make an egg wash. Place the cooled crust onto a baking sheet large enough to catch any drippings. Pour the filling into the pie crust. Next, brush the edges of the crust with the egg wash. Finally, cover the edges with aluminum foil. This helps prevent the exposed edges from burning while the pie cooks. Now comes the hardest part, Dumas warns. Carefully move the baking sheet with the pie from the counter into the preheated oven. If any of the filling spills onto the crust, remove it by gently dabbing it off with a wet paper towel. Bake for an hour, checking it at 50 minutes. Bake until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. At that point, remove the aluminum foil from the exposed edges and bake for another 5 minutes to give it a rich golden brown color. Remove the pie from the oven and place it on a heat-safe counter surface and allow it to cool to room temperature. Allow the pie to completely cool before putting it into the fridge otherwise, the filling will seize up, shrink, and pull away from the edges. Store it in the fridge overnight. Bring the pie out at least an hour before serving. Serve with vanilla bean ice cream or fresh whipped cream. | CHOW BELLA | t Café Dumas’ Pumpkin Pie. SugarJam, The Southern Kitchen >> p 26 Dana Dumas. SugarJam, The Southern Kitchen
