22 Nov 21st-Nov 27th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Family Flavor Phoenix restaurant Thai E-San serves Thai food with modern flair. BY MIKE MADRIAGA S tepping into Thai E-San in central Phoenix feels like entering a portal to Thailand, where rich flavors, vibrant colors and imported decor greet you at every turn. Opened on New Year’s Day in 2011, this family-owned gem in on the edge of the Melrose District combines the culinary heritage of Pui and Rodger Pongtratic with a modern twist from their daughter, Jan Pongtratic. “My mom and my dad were already retired,” Jan explains. “And then they got bored, and like true Asian work ethic, they missed working and the community. They said, ‘Oh, we’ll buy another little restau- rant’ and started Thai E-San in their 60s.” Around the trendy neighborhood, Thai E-San has earned a strong reputation, even serving as a launchpad for other Thai restaurants. Many former employees have gone on to open their own establishments around town and some former employees affectionately refer to Pui as the “Godmother” for her mentorship and support, especially during times of need. “If there’s ever a shortage of ingredi- ents, we help each other,” Pui explains. “I have backup supplies, so if I run out of tofu or vegetables, they know I can share.” Reflecting on the challenges of COVID- 19, Jan notes that coconut milk became expensive and hard to find. Pui was able to tap into her network and source coconut milk, sharing her stock with fellow Thai restaurateurs. “Coconut milk is in our peanut sauce for our Chicken Satay,” Pui adds. “It’s a funda- mental ingredient; some people don’t know that coconut milk is inside.” Another dish that uses coconut milk is their award-winning Coconut Soup, which arrives in a stainless steel bowl with a flame underneath to keep the broth warm alongside mushrooms, spices and the customer’s choice of protein. “We also use coconut milk in most of our curries, including the yellow, green, red, Pa-Naeng and Massaman curry,” Pui notes. The curries vary in vegetable content: the red and green include bamboo shoots, green beans, zucchini and bell peppers, while the yellow and Massaman come with potatoes, onions and carrots. Nearly all of the curries contain Thai basil leaves and are served with jasmine rice. Part of the restaurant’s name, “E-San” comes from Isan, a northeastern region in Thailand, from which many of the family’s recipes are derived. “I remember watching my grand- mother make red curry paste with a mortar and pestle,” Pui recalls. “In Thailand, they pound it on the floor, squatting for perfect consistency.” Pui has passed down these traditions to her daughters and now granddaughters, teaching them to grind herbs and spices by hand. And when it comes to ingredient sourcing, Pui is meticulous. “People know her and set aside the best produce for her,” Jan shares. “She loves to handpick ingredients rather than relying on larger suppliers.” Jan admits she’s tried, unsuccessfully, to streamline operations. “I’d rather order everything from one spot for efficiency, but my mom insists on her method,” she says. Pui interjects, “It may be a bit more expensive, but the freshness is worth it.” Jan affectionately jokes that her moth- er’s “ingredient hunts” are like her CrossFit routine. “She’ll lift boxes, fruits, vegetables and push carts all around town,” Jan says. “It’s part of what keeps her and my father active and healthy.” A key ingredient, Thai basil, is bought fresh in bundles almost daily for its unique, licorice-like flavor, which the restaurant uses in many dishes. The Gulf of Siam is a fan favorite, a platter of mixed seafood stir- fried with fresh Thai basil, capturing the herb’s vibrant aroma and distinctive taste. “The secret to keeping the veggies fresh after stir-frying is in the flame’s heat,” Jan says. Before Thai E-San, Pui and Rodger owned several businesses in the Valley, including Thai’s Best and Pink Pepper on Bell Road. In 1980, the Pongtratics purchased and ran the Bali-Hi Motor Hotel on Grand Avenue. They also managed the attached historic diner, where they learned firsthand how to operate a restaurant. In 1982, Jan was born. “They owned it until 1988, and we also lived there,” Jan recalls. “I definitely have memories of the pool and some employees.” Pui also worked for the state of Arizona as an interpreter of her native Thai dialect. Many of Pui’s friends from that job often dine at the restaurant. Now in their 70s, Pui and Rodger still make regular trips to Thailand, where they gather inspiration for their menu and bring back pieces of Thai art to adorn the restaurant. “My dad also owned and operated a vintage Levi’s, Harley Davidson attire and Western-themed business, exporting goods from Arizona to Thailand,” Jan says. During his trips to Thailand, Rodger would handpick art pieces from Chiang Mai’s galleries and markets and bring paintings, sculptures and “We have been a word-of-mouth restaurant with a fiercely loyal following since the beginning,” Jan Pongtratic says. (Photo by Mike Madriaga) Jan and Pui Pongtratic run Thai E-San on Indian School Road. The mother-daughter duo put a modern spin on classic Thai food. (Photo by Mike Madriaga) >> p 24 ▼ Food & Drink
