Hot from p 19 And we eat out a lot,” Brandon says. Travis frequents other restaurants where securing reservations is difficult, and he often finds success walking in and eating at the bar. “But not this one,” he says, “you can’t do that here.” ‘We Just Wanted to Get in’ Bacanora opened in March 2021, and from day one it’s been a culinary darling of Valley dining critics who praise it for the bevy of charred delights emerging from a fiery grill and creative, thoughtful takes on regional Mexican fare. A James Beard Award nomination this spring and best restaurant nods in Esquire, Bon Appétit, and The New York Times has shone a national spotlight on Bacanora, with locals and visitors alike vying for one of just 36 seats. The competition for a bite here is fierce. The restaurant is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday and serves brunch on Sundays. Stays are capped at 90 minutes to allow reservations to be honored in a timely manner. Tales of unsuccessful months-long attempts to capture online reservations or of queuing up early in hopes of getting lucky as walk- ins are plentiful. When it comes to the award for “Toughest Reservation to Get in the City,” Bacanora easily could be the winner. But there are strategies for snaring a seat. For Brandon, getting on the waitlist for several dates and responding nearly imme- diately to the Resy notice was his golden ticket. Phoenix couple Shaina and Matt Rozen know willingness to be early bird diners can reap rewards. The Rozens showed up at 4:45 p.m., right before the Blitz brothers. They were the first to arrive, and within minutes, the line grew around and behind them. The couple knew the drill for those who aren’t lucky reservation holders. For months, they had tried to capture a booking online with no luck. They waited as walk-ins numerous times. Once, back in April, they were successful as they were the last ones to get seats amid a line that stretched down the block. That night, they had the ribeye — the same dish they planned on ordering this time. This time, they weren’t deterred by a tempera- ture of 92 degrees that felt closer to 100, a possible wait, or eating early. “It’s some of the best steak I’ve had. We will wait for good food,” Shaina says. “We like supporting local restaurants and chefs who are doing something unique, so yes, it’s worth the wait.” Matt adds, “There’s nothing like it in town, too.” At 5 p.m. on the dot, Bacanora hostess 20 Rose Arivas emerged from the air-condi- tioned restaurant and greeted the crowd, which had grown to 27 people. She orga- nized everyone by category — reservations and walk-ins — and systematically worked her way through the line, seating reserva- tion holders first and then giving options to first-come, first-served hopefuls. Georgann Yara Above: At 5 p.m. sharp, Bacanora hostess Rose Arivas addresses the group of nearly 30 hungry patrons hoping to be part of the Saturday dinner crowd. Right: Chef Rene Andrade working the grill. The Rozens’ plan succeeded as they procured one of the three sidewalk tables. For walk-ins who don’t mind braving the elements and skipping the booze, which is not allowed outside of the restaurant, a willingness to dine outdoors is one way to a secure table. Another walk-in gets lucky if a reservation is a no-show after the strict 15-minute grace period. Also, depending on the timing, some online cancellations are left open to accommodate walk-ins. A combination of these options was the key for Leslie Guzman and her boyfriend, who drove from Tucson for the Kendrick Lamar concert at Footprint Center. Guzman knew they had to get to Bacanora by 5 p.m. or risk finding a pre-concert dinner else- where. Two weeks prior, Guzman saw all online reservations were taken. She put her name on the waitlist, but that didn’t pan out. On the day of the concert, she received an availability notification, but by the time she checked, it was gone. The couple arrived close to opening time and were numbers 16 and 17 in line. When they got to the door, Arivas took their names. After about a 10-minute wait, Arivas showed the couple to seats at the narrow window counter that faces Grand Avenue. They ordered cocktails, elote, and the popular 36-ounce ribeye, which they planned to split. Guzman says she has never heard of a restaurant reservation or seat so difficult to get. But the service and friendliness of everyone they encountered made it a non-issue. “We didn’t care where we had to sit. We Jackie Mercandetti just wanted to get in,” Guzman says. She knew about the accolades. “We’re really, really excited.” ‘They Know It’s Going to be a Wait’ Since Bacanora implemented a reservation system at the end of January, Arivas has had the task of managing the line. By now, Phoenicians know either to have a reser- vation or prepare to hang out. “They know it’s going to be a wait. Those that don’t mind waiting will show up and wait for two hours,” Arivas says. Business did not slow during the summer. Arivas is well aware of the impact numerous local glowing reviews and high- profile honors have had. But on that fall evening, the mention in Bon Appétit had just published. When asked if that would add to the already high demand, she grasps the repercussions. “Probably. Oh, that’s crazy,” Arivas says as she glances down at her reservation tablet. On the first of every month, the restau- rant releases all reservation spots open for the following month. On September 1, all available openings for October were gone in a half-hour. The difficulty of procuring a reservation is not lost on chef and co-owner Rene Andrade, the man behind the grill. He’s heard the stories about the exhaustive undertakings of customers to get in. He recalls Bacanora’s pre-reservation days when the line of hopeful diners stretched 30 or 40 people long and lasted for hours. In order to resolve issues that precipitate from these kinds of waits, Andrade and business partners Armando Hernandez and Nadia Holguin went the reservations route. “Everyone likes to plan >> p 22 OCT 27TH–NOV 2ND, 2022 PHOENIX NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | FEATURE | NEWS | OPINION | FEEDBACK | CONTENTS | phoenixnewtimes.com
