25 Aug 22nd-Aug 28th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Taiwan Mama Tempe tea shop expands to bring street food and family recipes to North Phoenix. BY MIKE MADRIAGA C hef and boba barista Kate Yu’s latest venture, a second loca- tion of Taiwan Mama, is already turning heads and tantalizing taste buds in North Phoenix. After a successful soft opening on Aug. 10, her new location quickly became a go-to spot for Taiwanese cuisine. “During our soft opening, I sold out of tea, boba, pork belly, popcorn chicken — so many things,” she says, smiling. Yu’s gastronomic journey in the U.S. began in 2023 when she opened the first Taiwan Mama store in Tempe, catering primarily to the Arizona State University crowd. “In Tempe, we mostly sell finger foods and drinks,” Yu explains. But the new Deer Valley location offers something more. “Here, we have a big kitchen so that we can make more Taiwanese food,” she adds, excited about the expanded menu possibilities. She has been busy perfecting recipes passed down through generations. On a recent visit, we tried the Braised Pork Belly Bento Combo platter, a scrumptiously rich dish with pork belly, dry tofu, ginger and special brown sauce. “The brown sauce is a family secret,” Yu says. “My mom back in Taiwan taught us how to make it. There’s soy sauce, a little rice wine, some sugar and a little secret.” The $12 platter, which comes with a bowl of rice, is a comforting reminder of Yu’s humble beginnings overseas where she helped her grandfather with his restaurant. Family recipes are mixed with another influence that inspires much of Yu’s cooking: street food. One of the most popular items on the menu is the $12 Popcorn Chicken Bento Combo, which comes with rice, a fried egg, vegetables and savory deep-fried chicken. “We also sell this in Tempe,” Yu notes. “Popcorn chicken is popular in the night markets of Taiwan.” And here in the U.S., the dish is a hit among ASU students, who enjoy it as a quick bite between classes. Another crowd-pleaser is the Squid Prawn Cakes, available as a la carte option for $7.90 per pair or as a bento meal with rice. “The recipe comes from Penghu,” Yu explains, referring to the Penghu or Pescadores Islands in the Taiwan Strait. “Penghu has great seafood, and this dish originates from there,” she adds. As Yu continues introducing more dishes, she’s including some personal favorites that bring her back to her child- hood. Among the new dishes is Mapo Tofu, a mildly spicy dish made with ground pork, simmered silken tofu, fermented bean paste, chili oil, beef and Sichuan peppercorns. “My mom used to cook this for me,” Yu shares, her love for the dish evident. Another upcoming addition is Black Pepper Beef, another recipe from her homeland. While the food is undeniably the star of the show, the drink menu is equally enticing, offering a colorful lineup of sweet beverages and desserts. The drink menu features black, milk and fruit teas, slushes, and dessert drinks. One standout is the Red Bean Milk Cream, a slush with creamer and pudding on the bottom, a flavor reminiscent of the colorful and whimsical Taipei stores. Another highlight is the Galaxy Swirl, a purple-hued layered dessert drink that’s as visually stunning as it is deli- cious. And for those with a sweet tooth, the Brown Sugar Milk drink, with its marbleized appearance, will satisfy and quench any craving. “Here is a Strawberry Milk Tea,” she says of the reddish-hued treat, which costs $5.50. “I still make this for my young son; it’s his favorite.” Yu co-owns Taiwan Mama with her husband, and the anticipated success of the new location is a family affair. Yu’s uncle, Roy Chang, works in the kitchen at the North Phoenix restaurant, helping train the staff in Taiwanese cooking. While Yu also helps in the kitchen, she’s a master boba beverage barista. Together, they are creating a culinary experience that honors their heritage while intro- ducing the vibrant flavors of Taiwan to Tempe and North Phoenix. Taiwan Mama 822 E. Union Hills Drive, D-16 725 S. Rural Road #107, Tempe Co-owner Kate Yu and her uncle Roy Chang run the new Taiwan Mama in North Phoenix. They serve a mixture of traditional family recipes and street food favorites. (Photos by Mike and L. Madriaga) ▼ Food & Drink