28 Aug 15th-Aug 21st, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Feel the Burn New taco shop serves tasty tacos, loaded fries, spicy salsas and frozen treats. BY TIRION BOAN U pon entering Taco Viva, customers are welcomed with a chorus of workers waving and shouting “Buenos días!” from behind the counter. This fun and friendly introduction lays the groundwork for the rest of the experi- ence at this new Indian School Road restaurant. Taco Viva opened on June 22. The newly built space includes towering ceil- ings, a modern and bright dining room with tables and booths, a salsa bar, a section selling red and white Taco Viva merch and a drive-thru. Its owners, James Greaves and Rigo Neri, wanted to bring a taste of their child- hoods to the new spot. Neri grew up in Sonora, Mexico and Greaves lived in Mexico City as a teenager. The restaurant’s menu pulls influences from both. Painted in block letters on the wall, the menu lays out options for fillings — carne asada, pollo, al pastor or hongos. Customers can then choose to enjoy those fillings in the form of tacos, tostadas, ques- adillas, mulas, vampiros or on top of fries. Additional options that work as appetizers or sides include chips with salsa, guaca- mole or queso. Customers place their orders at the counter and then move down the line, watching as taqueros put together their meals. During this process, you can choose flour or corn tortillas and opt in or out of different toppings. Customers are encouraged to order their meals “con todo” which includes salsa, guacamole, onion and cilantro. On our first visit, we tried a little of each category. The mix-and-match menu allows customers to create a meal with many different options. The al pastor taco was up first. Juicy and tender, large slices of pork were sliced off one of the multiple trompos rotating behind the counter. Next, we tried a mula, similar to a small quesadilla, filled with hongos, or savory mushrooms. The cheese inside was grid- dled to a toasty golden brown, but this crisp texture didn’t allow the top quesa- dilla to stick. We ended up taking off the extra tortilla and enjoying the bite like a cheesy taco. The vampiro, which came on a super crunchy tortilla, was topped with tender carne asada with just the right amount of char. And a pollo taco was the perfect backdrop for its toppings of spicy salsa and fresh herbs. Those green and orange salsas, which are added to most dishes and are available in bottles at the bar, pack a punch. They’re a main component of the carne asada fries, a dish that is seriously spicy. The same flavorful carne cubes are added to a tray of piping hot fries, and then drizzled generously with queso and bright orange salsa. A dollop of guac and drizzle of crema don’t do much to stop the flames. These fries are dangerously delicious. Proceed with caution and maybe get a refill on your horchata before digging in. Another way to cool down is with one of Taco Viva’s frozen treats. Pineapple soft serve is made into a cool piña colada or if you’re gluttens for more punishment, like us, try the spicy version topped with Tajin and chamoy. Gather yourself after eating the supremely spicy fries and enjoy the atmo- sphere of this fun new spot. Loud Spanish pop blares overhead and the high-energy staff serve customers while throwing in a few dance moves behind the counter. On the way out, the chorus picks back up with a collective “Buenas noches!” for every customer walking through the door. Taco Viva 2815 E. Indian School Road Cool off with a creamy horchata, piña colada soft serve or tangy Tajin-topped option at Taco Viva. (Photo by Tirion Boan) ▼ Food & Drink
