A ‘juggling act’ at Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. Yes, summer in Phoenix is hot. But that’s not the only problem, says Jonathan Buford, co-owner of Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. “It’s always been hot,” he says. “Right now, the dollar just isn’t going as far, is the biggest issue.” That’s been true for the brewery, which has watched business costs balloon — on rent, labor, food and beer ingredients. That made last year “uniquely shitty,” in Buford’s words. “Every cost compiled on a very slow year,” he says. “Then a bad summer comes along and says, ‘Hey, I want to be the hottest summer in history.’” Arizona Wilderness downtown Phoenix brewpub is one of the most recog- nizable spots along Roosevelt Row. A mural of a cartoonish person on a bike points toward Wilderness’ massive patio populated by rows of picnic tables and clusters of red Adirondack chairs around fire pits. Overhead, a pergola, fans and misters work to cool the people under- neath. During the hottest parts of the year, the patio often sits empty. Paired with no rain for months on end, the heat “really affects the mindset of people,” says Buford, a self-described environmentalist. In April, Arizona Wilderness opened a third location along Phoenix’s Miracle Mile. Unlike its downtown counterpart, the space is completely indoors and boasts a parking lot. It’s also the new home for Arizona Wilderness’ brewing operations. The space allows the brewer to grow its capacity while brewing more efficiently and reducing its carbon footprint. Staying true to their ethos, Buford refuses to compromise on operating sustainably and supporting local farmers and ranchers. So while he’d rather talk about his company’s upcoming collabora- tions, he instead strategizes with his team about how to trim costs and manage higher health care premiums. To do that, Buford’s team is directly asking for price relief from their hops, free- range chicken and linen suppliers. Already, Buford says, the staff has found ways to save some $60,000 on hops, for example. “Can we get this (company) to be cheaper to run without compromising our values?” Buford says. “It’s a little juggling act. But we do need our big, big providers to help us out. Our little providers, they’re just like us. They can’t budge.” So far this summer season, 25 restau- rants have closed in May and June, based on New Times’ tracking. That’s just three fewer than the same period last year. But new restaurant openings have been stronger. More than 200 restaurants opened over the past winter and spring compared to 180 in 2024, according to openings tracked by Phoenix magazine. And restaurant vacancies through the first quarter of this year were just 4.4%, according to a report from Western Retail Advisors. While the ever-optimistic Buford would like to believe there are “greener pastures ahead,” he knows that, realistically, restau- rants have to be more adaptable than ever to survive in the desert. “Yeah, it’s hot in the summertime, but I don’t know that there’s any downhill ahead,” he says. “It’s all uphill. And you better get in shape for it.” Boiling Point from p 12 Jonathan Buford co-owns Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. (KPL Studios) Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. opened a new indoor-only location on McDowell Road. (Tirion Boan)
