13 July 20th–July 26th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | The Second-Actors John and Lorian Roethlein launched Arizona Mushrooms Co. in 2020. The couple has been involved in several ventures during their 30 years of marriage, from running an engineering recruiting firm to founding the Payson Farmers Market. When looking for something new to tackle, John saw mushrooms as a triple win, as in a “win for me, a win for you and also a win for our environment,” he says from their home in Payson, where they have converted their downstairs and garage into grow space. When they first started their company, John wanted to explore every potential capability of mushrooms, from environ- mental restoration to building materials. Ultimately, the Roethleins decided to focus on what they knew from the farmers market: growing gourmet produce for Arizonans to cook at home. Arizona Mushroom Co. can be found at markets in Payson, Flagstaff and Scottsdale (in the winter), as well as online. John and Lorian have gone from growing just shiitakes to producing seven different varieties and they harvest about 125 pounds of fungi each week. And after seeing an increased demand for lion’s mane — touted for its medicinal proper- ties, including boosting immune systems — they ramped up its cultivation. “All of our different varieties have a different medicinal value,” Lorian says. In general, mushrooms are fat-free and a good source of B and D vitamins. They’re also rich in antioxidants such as selenium. Specific varietals each carry additional, nuanced nutritional benefits. Mushrooms have been used throughout history as medi- cine, and part of their surging popularity is tied to research around the role that some types, such as reishi, turkey tail and maitake, may play in stopping or slowing the growth of cancer cells. “People are absolutely thrilled to be able to take control of their health, to eat some- thing that’s great, to try something new, to impress their friends, to heal a chronic illness,” John adds. The Homesteader One person who hoped that mushrooms would make a positive impact on their health was Kevin Fitzgerald. The self- described “culinary nut” loves to cook and was looking for a more holistic dietary option that would help him transition off cholesterol medication. He had always been an avid gardener — citrus and pome- granate trees dot the backyard of his Glendale home — so he decided to try his hand at cultivating mushrooms. From there, Sun Valley Harvest was born. While Fitzgerald considered growing other items, such as microgreens, once he started down the mushroom rabbit hole, “fungi just took my life over,” he says. When selling his produce at Uptown Farmers Market, Fitzgerald often answers questions about which mushrooms to buy based on their medicinal benefits. Other customers are seeking to use mushrooms as a meat alternative. “With my customers, they’re looking for something new to try,” he says. Fitzgerald also loves showing people that mushrooms are more than the pale white buttons that are served on salads. “There are mushrooms that taste like maple syrup,” he says. Sun Valley Harvest sells a variety of mushrooms, from oyster to cordyceps, at markets and restaurants, including Merkin Vineyards and Prescott’s Torme. Sun Valley produces about 200 pounds of mushrooms each week, and Fitzgerald has brought his daughter and son-in-law into the business. He has dedicated a shed, garage, room and closet to Sun Valley Harvest — and he plans to add onto his house to continue to expand his urban mushroom farm. “I consider this a homestead, and it’s a lifestyle,” Fitzgerald says. MEET 4 FUNGI FARMERS GROWING THE PHOENIX MUSHROOM MARKET. BY SARA CROCKER M ushrooms are having a moment. The popularity of fungi appears to be reaching a fever pitch, fueled by wellness gurus, including Tucson’s Andrew Weil, and appearances in pop culture, such HBO’s zombie thriller “The Last of Us.” At Phoenix restaurants, mushrooms are showing up on plates that highlight their versatility, from flatbreads at MATCH Market to menudo at Tia Carmen. They’re replacing coffee beans for morning brews and dairy in fresh baked breads. People are flocking to farmers markets for local mushrooms, sold fresh, dried and in liquid concentrates — or to purchase grow kits to cultivate their own. “It does seem right now is like a zeitgeist for mushrooms,” says Mike Dechter, who heads the Arizona Mushroom Society. The non-profit organization offers education, dinners and events for “novices and experi- enced mushroom hunters alike,” according to its website. The rising popularity and ensuing demand has led to a proliferation of mushroom farms across Arizona and local farmers point to a convergence of events, from growing interest in meat-free options and ways to improve one’s health in the aftermath of the pandemic to intrigue sparked by the Netflix documentary “Fantastic Fungi.” The benefits of mushrooms have attracted fans from all corners of the cooking and health landscape — and psychedelics advocates, too. But here we’re talking about just food. Meet four local mushroom farmers who are fueling the fungus fascination in Phoenix. Pink and yellow oyster mushrooms, such as these grown by Southwest Mushrooms, are eye-catching. Kevin Fitzgerald began growing mushrooms as a way to build a healthier lifestyle. When people at the farmers market see Sun Valley’s mushrooms on display, it starts a conversation, he says. Lorian and John Roethlein founded Arizona Mushroom Co. in 2020 with just shiitakes. It now grows seven varieties of mushrooms and produces 125 pounds of fungi a week. Southwest Mushrooms Sarah Crocker Arizona Mushroom Co. Arizona Mushroom Co. >> p 15
