21 July 13th–July 19th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | freshest catch owner Christopher Nelson can find. His passion for fresh seafood shines through in his food and in the shop’s always friendly and educational customer service. Find Nelson’s on Indian School Road, where you can grab a bite to eat and enjoy it with a beer next door at The Wandering Tortoise. Another location of the sought-after fishmonger is coming soon to Scottsdale. Oscar’s Pier 83 18589 N. 59th Ave., #111, Glendale Stop into Oscar’s Pier 83 on a Friday at 5 p.m. and it will be packed. Walk in on a weekday at lunchtime, and there’ll be a line around the counter. These crowds know what’s up. The Glendale restaurant, tucked into a strip mall on 59th Avenue, has been serving delicious fried fish since 2004. The menu focuses on anything from the sea that you can deep fry and serve with french fries. Heck, there are 11 types of fish ‘n’ chips on the menu. And that’s not counting the combo plates that allow you to pair fried cod and chips with shrimp, calamari strips, fried clams or oysters. Fish ‘n’ chips not your thing? Try a po’boy piled high with crispy golden brown shrimp or the broiled Mahi Mahi. Fish tacos, fresh salads and the occasional burger also make the menu at this casual and well-loved neighborhood hangout. Salt Cellar 550 N. Hayden Road, Scottsdale When driving to Salt Cellar, slow down a little. The tiny blue-and-white building is so small it’s easy to miss, but that’s because this culinary adventure takes place below ground. Upon entering, customers are met not with a restaurant dining room but instead with a stairway that descends through a wood-paneled tunnel. At a landing about halfway down, the outdoor heat disappears, and your eyes begin to adjust to the dark, moody surroundings. Reservation-based fine dining complete with white tablecloths and whole lobster is available, but the best seats — and the best deals — are found under the twinkle lights that surround a historic wooden bar. The bar is separated from the dining room by large glass panels etched with sailboat designs. The back bar’s stock reflects on large mirrors and well drinks are less than $5 during happy hour, which runs from 4-7 p.m. and again from 10 p.m.-midnight every day. Place your order for a martini or old fashioned, and then dig into the happy hour appetizer menu. The shrimp cocktail comes old-school style, as do most dishes at the Salt Cellar. Five enormous chilled shrimp are draped over a glass goblet, just waiting to be dunked in a horseradish- heavy cocktail sauce. The escargot en caps, i.e. snails in mushrooms, is a garlic butter bomb, and the lump crab cake, while more pricey than many of the happy hour options, is pure meat, no filler. The Salt Cellar’s menu won’t win any awards for innovation, but the chefs here do the clas- sics and they do them well. Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey 4232 N. Seventh Ave. Situated along Seventh Avenue in the Melrose District, next to a pet shop and a coffee drive-thru is a sleek, modern restaurant. Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey, a concept launched in Palm Springs by chef and owner Engin Onural, opened its Phoenix outpost in late 2022. The stylish aesthetic continues inside, with Japan and Scandinavian-influenced decor that combines wallpaper with a repeating pattern of “The Great Wave off Kanagawa,” rich wood accents, warm leather booths and fish scale-shaped tiles along the back bar. The menu includes a selection of sushi rolls, nigiri, sashimi, carpaccio, and hot and cold mains. From the sushi menu, don’t miss the Baby Langustine, a simple roll stuffed with crab and avocado and topped with a mountain of crisp, golden-fried bites of langoustine. A spicy aioli and teriyaki sauce drizzle enhance the sweetness of the little shellfish nuggets, which could be served in a bowl on their own. When choosing from the signature dishes, be sure to ask if the Hamachi Kama is available. The two crispy boomerang-shaped yellow- tail collars burst with flavor, and the fish rests on a savory ponzu sauce spiked with scallions. For special occasions, a chef’s tasting menu also is available. Shimogamo 2051 W. Warner Road, Chandler One of the best Japanese restaurants in the Valley is tucked into an East Valley strip mall. And if you arrive at opening time — 5 p.m. sharp — you’ll find customers milling around the parking lot and waiting in their parked cars for the doors to be unlocked. It’s an indication of what’s to come. While there are tables available at Shimogamo, the best seats in the house are undoubtedly at the sushi bar. Pull up a low stool and watch the masterful sushi makers wrap and slice rolls, plate sashimi and filet whole fish. To order, just pass your paper menu with penciled-in selections back and forth to the sushi chefs for round after round of fresh fish. For those who prefer their dishes fully cooked, a variety of hot proteins are available and ordered from the kitchen. Chris Malloy Nelson’s Meat + Fish, the best seafood market in Phoenix. Go Fish from p 19
