16 June 11th - June 17th, 2026 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | A dessert offering, Pavlova Payaso, leans into Padilla’s favorite childhood sweet treat featuring a marshmallow clown. The outer dark chocolate face smiles as you crack into it, revealing a creamy orange, sea salt and rich olive oil meringue, a balanced and charming last bite. For the wings, Padilla par-boils them first and finishes them on the mesquite- fired grill, adding three different sauces. “The mole is a tribute to my grand- mother, who used to make us chicken mole all the time. There’s also a Tepache, because Mandy loves a sweet and spicy wing, so I thought the best thing would be a charred pineapple habanero with some notes of cinnamon, clove, garlic and onion. And the third is my own version of a traditional Buffalo sauce, but with serranos, charred tomatillos and cilantro, super vinegary and emulsified to order,” Padilla says. A word of warning, or welcoming, for those who love spicy: Padilla’s childhood had some heat. The citrus and sweet notes work well against the smoky backdrop of the Tepache wing, and the serrano sauce brings a slow burn that rewards the punchy vinegar and cilantro notes, keeping you coming back despite the peppery bite. However, the mole may wind up being the favorite. While it has the mildest spice, the deep well of sweet and savory flavors is complemented by the charred mesquite and juicy fattiness of the whole wing. The result is a layered, complex, beautiful and truly original creation. While the wings are the centerpiece of Alita’s menu, Padilla also plans to weave some creative takes on his favorite child- hood snacks. Albondiga French dips, Chicharron “Chips and Dip,” and, yes, the infamous tater tot casserole are all expected to make appearances as Alita gets its footing. Leaning back, looking forward For Padilla, sharing these bites and watching people’s reactions to his childhood food is a joy. “I call it the ‘Ratatouille’ Moment,” he says, referencing the Pixar film. Of course, in the movie, a single bite can transport even the most jaded culinary critic to a specific time where all was good, and a fixed memory can come alive again for a chef and those he serves. For Padilla, the smell of smoke caught the attention of someone even more important. “That’s how I won over Mandy. She grew up camping, so the smell of smoke is nostalgic for her. Whenever I would lean in, she would get that campfire smell. I guess it just was meant to be,” Padilla says. At Goldwater, he continues to eye the grill as the sun beats overhead. The smoke wafts over the picnic seating. Hungry guests line up, drawn to the flame. Padilla uses his handkerchief to wipe his brow, flipping a row of wings as one of the patrons chats him up. They sell out before 5 p.m. Tomorrow, he will be at another brewery, fanning the flame and battling the heat, hoping for another sellout. That said, it doesn’t matter the location. To Padilla, we are home. Alita Mondays: 5 to 9 p.m. (or sell out) at Wren House Brewing 2125 N. 24th St. Fridays: 5 to 9 p.m. (or sell out) at The Theodore Beer + Wine Bar 110 E. Roosevelt St. Other pop-ups announced weekly @alitaphx Chef Antonio Padilla learned to love spending time in the kitchen from his mom and grandma. (Antonio Padilla) Memories in Mesquite from p 14 Chef Antonio Padilla grills wings over mesquite at his pop-up Alita. (Zach Oden)
