18 May 29th-June 4th, 2025 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | go classic or not? George & Gather’s rendi- tion amps up the bright notes of lemon, topping the salad with zest, along with saved cheese, crumbles of baked parmesan crisps and sourdough croutons. Lemon punches hard in this salad and was at times a bit overwhelming, but a peppery, garlicky housemade dressing packs umami that softens the blow. For the main event, we shared a pizza and one of the restaurant’s family-style side dishes. George & Gather’s pizzas are unique in that they’re built on a sourdough crust made with a 130-year-old starter. Diners can also opt for a gluten-free crust. There are nine pies to choose from, sauced with marinara, basil pesto or olive oil. We selected Rosemary Potato, a white pie that, in addition to its named ingredi- ents, is topped with red onion, mozzarella and gorgonzola. The potatoes offer a playful fake-out, using slices of not only golden but also red-hued spuds that look like discs of pepperoni. The pizza has the comforting flavors of a scalloped potato but with more bite thanks to the tangy cheese and red onion. The sourdough flavor was subtle and the crust was exceptional – crisp, bubbly and able to stand up to its toppings. Along with our pizza, a side of roasted beets arrived. The dish leans classic, pairing the root veg with herby goat cheese, supremed oranges, a drizzle of honey, pistachios and microgreens. This supporting dish immediately dazzled on the table with a stunning rainbow of color. The creamy cheese was generously spiked with earthy rosemary, an apt partner for both the vibrant citrus and the warm, sweet beets. The hot-and-cold, earthy- and-bright dish was our favorite of the night. The cocktail menu offers some of George & Gather’s most complex offerings. It was crafted by Pour Form Consulting, the drinks business helmed by James Beard Award semifinalist Jax Donahue. This year’s reigning Last Slinger Standing, Ruben Fernandez, III, led the menu development. The cocktail called Babe arrives in a short glass with a bubble gum pink foam made from beets. The tipple is made with gin, spiced pear liqueur, green tea, apple cider vinegar, bergamot and lemon. At first sip, the pear pops out, its warm earthiness is reinforced by the green tea. As the foam melts into the drink, the sweet beets add a new, quaffable layer. Negroni fans should try the Gorgeous. The cocktail features pistachio-infused gin, chocolate bitters and apricot. Despite those additions, the bitter Campari and vermouth keep this sipper balanced. An undercurrent at George & Gather is that it is a hub for clean eating — eschewing seed oils, for example. Regardless of your opinion on that or other buzzy health food trends, what is clear is that the Kovariks want the kitchen to make as much as it can from scratch. They also source high-quality local ingredients from standouts such as Barrio Bread, Sonoran Pasta Co., Culture Clash Greek Yogurt and Queen Creek Olive Mill. Multihyphenate spaces like George & Gather can, on their face, appear predict- able, but the restaurant has some aces up its sleeve. And the owners are serving exactly what their neighbors are craving. George & Gather 336 S. Washington St., Chandler Starters and salads $13.50- 21, Sides $8-11, Pizzas $17 to $22, Entrees $17-37, Cocktails $14-17 Neighborhood Destination from p 16 George & Gather serves a simple but sumptuous side of roasted beets. The dish was our favorite of the night. (Sara Crocker) George & Gather serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner in Chandler. (Grace Stufkosky)
