13 May 11th–May 17th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | of Beene’s “runway ballets” of the 1990s, which were fashion shows that merged design with ballet. “Upon researching Patsy’s collection, and the bulk of it is in the 1990s, I then learned about this moment when Mr. Beene was producing a different format of fashion show. He was collaborating with choreographers and ballerinas along with models to create ballet runways, fully realized with choreog- raphy on a proscenium stage, lighting, a soundtrack, everything,” Jean says. Choosing items that illustrated that era of Beene’s work was “my first round of selec- tion,” Jean says. “And then through those, what stories could I tell? I saw we wanted to tell a story about movement because it’s about ballet, but within that, I could tell movement through his harness structure that he liked to employ through belts, through vests, through bibs, through the way he place the seam lines on the garments.” She points also to Beene’s sportswear and his graphic patterns as design features that exemplify the theme of movement. How best to appreciate the exhibition If all a visitor takes away from “MOVE” is that the clothes are beautiful, so be it. But Jean suggests taking photos of the clothes and their accompanying labels, as well as the explanatory panels, to contemplate later. “[Guests] can just photograph those quickly as they walk by and read them later, because they’ll make sense. They can photograph the gallery with their flash off, because it’s always great to revisit these things. But while they’re in the gallery, certainly look at the garments — keep your hands in your pockets, I always want to remind everyone.” Besides the clothes, there are video interviews with choreographer Doug Varone, who helped create the runway ballets, as well associates of Beene’s, including dancers, fit models, fashion historians and more. “They give a wonderful story to the creativity and the artistry of Mr. Beene. And they were there. They were there in the room during the fittings, they were there when he was coming up with these designs, they were there when he was making the tough deci- sions. So they are able to provide a wonderful insight into that experience,” Jean says. It takes a team to make an exhibition Although Jean is the curator of Phoenix Art Museum’s fashion collections, she is quick to point out that an exhibition like “MOVE” doesn’t happen without many contributions behind the scenes. The Arizona Costume Institute is the membership-based group within Phoenix Art Museum that has been supporting its fashion design collection since 1966. ACI purchased several items for “MOVE,” including a dress from one of Beene’s final collections and an illustration of the designer by renowned fashion illustrator Joe Eula. Besides the financial and philosophical support from ACI, no exhibition comes together without a group of people. “I’m lucky to work with an incredible team of people that I present these ideas to,” Jean says. “So this is not my idea from begin- ning to end, solely and exclusively. This is my inspiration, it’s my job to find the inspiration within these garments and the thread between them within our collection. But then I present the idea to a team that can help design the environment, that helps to thread that story that poses chal- lenging questions that cause me to revisit the research, to find new research, to ask harder questions, to consider things differently.” And although she is a fashion professional, the public also plays a role in Jean’s understanding of the garments. “I get to overhear people in the gallery,” she says. “They don’t know who I am, and I get to hear them associate with a piece and identify with it. It reminds them of someone or it reminds them of a moment or it reminds them of a dress. … Maybe I didn’t see at first why, beyond its technical skill and its ability to address elements of design and art, how people connect with it emotionally, because I may not have connected with it emotionally, but I understood it checked so many important other boxes. “So those are important lessons for me, to always look at every single piece from a variety of opinions.” “MOVE: The Modern Cut of Geoffrey Beene” continues through July 23 at Phoenix Art Museum, 1625 North Central Ave. The exhibition is included with general admission, which is $24 for adults, with discounts for seniors, students and children. Museum hours are 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Wednesday (Pay-What-You- Wish hours are 3 to 9 p.m. on Wednesday), and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday to Sunday. Call 602-257-1880 or visit phxart.org. Phoenix Art Museum ‘MOVE’ tells a curated story of Beene’s work. ‘MOVE’ from p 10 Phoenix Art Museum The idea of movement was key in the curation of the show’s pieces.
