19 May 9th-May 15th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Full Speed Ahead Little Miss BBQ owners open new chicken and ribs spot downtown. BY GEORGANN YARA F ull Speed Chicken & Ribs, the much-anticipated poultry and pork concept from Little Miss BBQ owners Scott and Bekke Holmes, opened its downtown Phoenix doors with little fanfare on April 26. Enthusiasts of the Holmes’ much- lauded smoked sausages, brisket and ribs served at Little Miss BBQ’s two locations in east Phoenix and Sunnyslope likely noticed the Instagram post that served as the only announcement of the opening of the fast-casual spot. “We didn’t tell anyone we were going to open… we just kind of opened up,” Scott Holmes said on Tuesday, just as the lunch crowd started to pour in and queue at the counter. “It was just some small social media post and that was it.” What’s on the menu? The succinct menu offers fried chicken tenders and thighs served in three heat levels ranging from “Southern” being the mildest and “hottie hot hot” on the other end of the spectrum. All of the chicken is fried-to-order in beef tallow — clarified beef fat — from Little Miss BBQ, Bekke explains. Chicken plates come with two classic comfort food sides such as coleslaw, maca- roni and cheese, pork and beans and french fries. The Holmes’ famous ribs can be dressed up with barbecue or hot honey sauce and ordered by the rack, half-rack or single rib. Of course, chicken and ribs plates served with sides and sauces are an option for those who can’t decide. Both the fried chicken and pulled pork can be served in a sandwich with slaw on Noble Portuguese bread, or paired with a housemade buttermilk biscuit. In addition to bottled soda, water and lemonade, there’s beer in bottles and on draft, including the Full Speed Red Chili, which is specially brewed for the restau- rant by Wren House Brewing. Two cock- tails round out the beverage menu: Don’t Be a Chicken featuring pineapple-jalapeno tequila and the Four Roses Bourbon-based Daisy Duke’s. Full Speed ahead on Roosevelt Row The 1,700-square-foot building features an indoor dining area of tables and booths that accommodate a total of 34 diners. A back patio offers tables, chairs and an L-shaped banquette beneath shade trees and string lights, with misters to come soon. In the entryway, a long bar is available for those who wish to sit or stand while they eat and take in the views of Roosevelt Street life. That’s where Michael Racy chose to have his first Full Speed meal, a chicken sandwich with fries. He also ordered ribs, coleslaw and macaroni and cheese to take home for later. Racy lives around the corner and says he has been watching the site for weeks. He’s tried the Holmes’ food at Little Miss and when he finally saw Full Speed was open, he was excited to come in. “I love everything they make and I love what they’ve done with the space,” said Racy, who had also been a customer at Trap Haus BBQ, the restaurant that was previously in the building. A side window accommodates online orders where customers can get their food to go. Bekke anticipates this will come in especially handy on First Fridays, when attendees can answer their cravings by placing their orders on their mobile phones, grabbing their snack and continuing on. “You can have a couple of tenders and walk around,” she says. Branching out from barbecue So how and why does a barbecue pro turn his hand to fried chicken? Scott developed his fried chicken recipe during the pandemic. He experimented with the brine, breading and process as his family ate fried chicken five or six times a week and offered feedback. A previous plan to open a third location of Little Miss in midtown Phoenix fell through after many challenges and delays with an old landmark buidling. But Scott discovered the vacant spot on Roosevelt and deemed it a fit. With a wood ceiling and exposed brick inside and out, the structure also appeals to his passion for older architecture and its beautiful quirks. Scott talks excitedly about finally seeing this new restaurant make its debut. He says the upcoming First Friday will be the first big test. Full Speed is open 11 a.m to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, but Scott hopes to eventually be able to push the closing time to 10 p.m. on big event nights. “It’s pretty wild,” Scott says as the line to order at the counter steadily grows and the tantalizing aroma of barbecue and fried chicken wafts throughout the space. “I love it down here on Roosevelt and being an Arizona native, it’s pretty amazing what’s been going on downtown.” Full Speed Chicken & Ribs 513 E. Roosevelt St. The Full Speed Chicken & Ribs menu spans fried chicken, ribs, sandwiches and plates with classic sides. The pulled pork sandwich (right) is adorned with barbecue sauce, coleslaw and pickles and served on a Noble Portuguese bun. (Photos by Georgann Yara) Bekke and Scott Holmes are the owners of Full Speed Chicken & Ribs on Roosevelt Row. The new concept joins their Little Miss BBQ empire. (Photo by Georgann Yara) ▼ Food & Drink
