17 May 9th-May 15th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Pyro’s house signature ribeye is dyna- mite. Not just by their standards but by any standard. Dry-aged in-house for 40 days, it’s a hefty bone-in beauty the kitchen cooks over live coals. I’ve had it twice, and it slayed me both times, boasting a smoky, carbon-flecked crust that yields to a succu- lent, perfectly cooked core with the telltale unctuous depth of flavor that only time can produce. Served with nothing more than a splash of light jus and an assortment of Japanese pickles, it is — ironically — the closest Pyro gets to the respectful, restrained minimalism of the cuisine from which it draws inspiration. Save up, though. Weighing in at $5.50 per ounce, the ribeye starts around $130 and escalates from there, depending on the day’s supply. But even at that price, it’s arguably the best value on the menu — an expensive dish that earns its price tag. Another strong candidate is a massive plate of meaty lamb chops, nicely seasoned and beautifully cooked, though I wish a little more of the fire had worked its way into the exterior. Hidden on the meat-heavy grill menu, Pyro’s branzino is a sleeper. Completely deboned, splayed out and roasted over the same fire, it emerges with delicate, smoky flesh and crisp blistered skin perked up with pickled ginger and a bright, citrusy vinaigrette. Some wins, some frustrations Sides and desserts return to a familiar hit-and-miss pattern. Curried spinach arrives watery and brutally over- salted, while a brick of potato gratin big enough to serve a Thanksgiving table is tender and creamy with a heady whiff of miso and a blistered, crackling cap. And the koji rice is lush and creamy with a splash of funky black garlic jus. It’s so close to perfect it leaves me frustrated — a bit more salt, a hint of acid, just a touch of contrast to cut through that monotone richness would make it a stunner. Ube panna cotta will disappoint if you’re a stickler for a classic jiggly texture, but when strewn with tapioca and topped with mango lassi froyo and candied sesame, it’s a playful delight to eat. And yet, a slab of stone fruit tart feels like a cheat. It’s stunning to behold, but its gummy crust and thick, nutty substrate is topped with razor-thin slivers of fruit that are barely enough to taste. What a tease. And herein lies Pyro’s essential problem. Greater cost, greater expectations An interesting, if overlooked, effect of rising prices is that they have pushed some restaurants — reluctantly, I expect — to a price point that carries higher expecta- tions. Don’t count me among the disgruntled diners. I firmly believe those price increases are absolutely justified. But I also think diners are right to expect more in return. Fine dining restaurants don’t get to make mistakes, and part of that calculus is the price tag. When you’re dropping the cost of a shiny, expensive piece of consumer electronics on an ephemeral meal, it had better be a great one. Pyro isn’t quite in that category yet, but $90 for an 8-ounce strip is getting awfully close. Inconsistency is one thing when you’re ordering nachos, fried chicken and omelets for $15 a plate. It’s another thing entirely when that $15 barely covers the tax on your meal. I’d love to frame the conversation purely in culinary terms, as a question of potential — what is Pyro and what could it be? But at this price point, the more salient question, perhaps, is what does Pyro need to be? Put bluntly, Pyro often can be good. But it needs to be better. Pyro 4300 E. Camelback Road 602-755-0049 pyrophx.com 11 a.m.-close every day. Small plates $15-$36; Hearth mains $39- $200; Sides $16-$22; Desserts $11-$16. Higher Stakes from p 14 Pyro plays like an opulent supper club with retro-Japanese touches. (Photo by Dominic Armato) Panna cotta dilettantes might balk at its non- traditional texture, but this specimen, laced with ube and tapioca, is an awful lot of fun to eat. (Photo by Dominic Armato)
