19 May 4th–May 10th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | Bubbling Up Arizona Brewers are crafting a new wave of Mexican lagers. BY SARA CROCKER W hen Drew Ortega is at Uncle Bear’s Brewery early in the morning and he adds flaked corn to the mash of Tio Oso, the brewery’s Mexican lager, the sweet aroma reminds him of his grandmother. “My fondest memory is Christmases, she would always make fresh tortillas,” the head brewer of Uncle Bear’s says. “I do have a little nostalgia when I make Tio (Oso’s) because we use that corn. As soon as I dump it in you can smell it.” Corn is what Ortega says makes the beer true to style. However, he pauses before he says “true,” acknowledging there are no set rules or guidelines for what defines a Mexican lager. Other beer styles are articulated by governing groups like the Brewers Association, which presents the Great American Beer Festival competi- tion that recognizes breweries for excel- lence in beermaking. But corn – and its connection to Mexico – is what Ortega and many other brewers point to as what defines Mexican lager, a beer whose history has been influenced by Spanish, German, and American forces over hundreds of years. “The corn’s important to me,” Ortega says. “I’m Mexican. It’s a huge staple in what we eat daily. That I’ll never take out (of Tio Oso). I like the sweetness of it. You get a subtle sweetness but it also dries it out, which is what you want in a lager.” Brewers across the Valley say lagers have recently gained popularity and are becoming a staple among customers. Mexican lagers have always held a place in Arizona drinkers’ fridges, albeit from large brands. Dos Equis is the most popular beer among Arizonans, according to a study by TOP Data. That preference follows across the country, where Mexican beers make up eight of every 10 imported beers sold, according to Beer Institute. But craft breweries are jumping into the ring. Increasingly, Arizona brewers are adding Mexican-style lagers to their tap lists. Head Brewer at Flying Basset Brewing Joshua “Archy” Archuleta says the brewery has three to six lagers on tap throughout the year. The brewery added a cerveza called El Capitan which is a “light, crushable, exceptionally crisp beer for the Arizona heat.” Arizona Craft Brewers Guild Deputy Director Andrew Bauman conducted an informal survey of the organization’s 100-plus members across the state, and more than a quarter said they brew a Mexican-style lager. The thirst for the style is real. These lagers are the leading sellers at some brew- eries, while others have seen their demand skyrocket and have increased production to match. “I think that in Arizona we have so much connection to our southwestern history and heritage,” says Bauman, who previously brewed at Uncle Bear’s and The Perch Brewery. The hot climate, connec- tion to Mexico, and the nostalgia of beers “we all grew up with” like Corona or Modelo are drivers for the rise of the lager style in craft taprooms, he added. A Long and Complicated History Mexico’s indigenous people have a long history of creating and drinking fermented beverages, such as pulque made from agave sap, tepache made from pineapple peels and rinds, and tesgüino, a corn-based beer. The arrival of imperial forces from Spain brought barley and European-style brewing to the country in the 1600s. Heavy restrictions and taxation on beer and its brewing process, along with a lack of local ingredients led to little growth. Brewing started to grow following The end of the Mexican War of Independence – not the result of the battle that commem- orates Cinco de Mayo. German immigrants began settling in modern-day Texas and Mexico, bringing their brewing traditions as well. Victoria, a Vienna-style lager that is an amber color and has a bit of maltiness, is said to be Mexico’s original lager. It was first brewed in 1865, during the short-lived rule of Emperor Maximilian I, an Austrian who yearned for the beer. Corn, a local and plentiful ingredient, was added to lessen the need for imported grain. German settlers helped grow the industry to 36 Mexican breweries by 1918. During Prohibition, American drinkers streamed across the border to find alcohol. Lighter pilsners like Corona and Modelo were first brewed during that era. While Prohibition gave a boost to border brew- eries and distilleries, the industry consoli- dated into two large players, Grupo Modelo and Cerveceria Cuautehmoc- Moctezuma, which today are part of inter- national beverage groups. Corona was first imported into the U.S. in 1981, and with it built a beer lifestyle brand reflecting relaxation and soft lapping waves on sandy beaches. It’s only in more recent memory that craft brewing has begun to grow in Mexico once again. Luis Osuna, the CEO of Buqui Bichi Brewery, based in Hermosillo, Sonora, says he and his partners founded the brewhouse in 2016 to provide more beer styles made on a microbrewing scale in Mexico. “Mexicans, we do know how to do a good beer, so now we’re doing it craft,” Osuna says. A Craft Approach Buqui Bichi is set to open its first U.S. taproom in Chandler later this month, with 12 taps showcasing a spectrum of styles, from a Kolsch to a hazy IPA. The brewery combines influences from European and American brewing styles with ingredients from the Sonoran Desert – the brewers have added chiltepin, pitaya or dragon fruit, and mesquite flour to their beers. “That idea of sharing our beer, our food, and our experience continues and this is just an extension,” Osuna says. Every brewer adds their own story to any beer style, and because there are no hard and fast rules to what defines a Mexican-style lager, “it is open to interpre- tation more than other categories,” Bauman says. At Pedal Haus Brewery, master brewer Derek Osborne creates a Mexican Amber Lager that’s true to the Vienna- style beer that birthed lagers in Mexico. Huss Brewing Co. makes a lager that’s an homage to Rio Salado Brewing Co., a former Tempe brewery that Huss resides in today and whose brewing style, like- wise is rooted in German tradition. The beer uses Vienna malt and flaked corn, says Leah Huss, who founded the name- sake brewery with her husband Jeff Huss. SanTan Brewing Co.’s seasonal BajaJack takes inspiration from surf trips to the Mexican peninsula for its strong lager, which SanTan calls a “surfveza” and includes lime juice from Tempe’s Sun Orchard. Uncle Bear’s has a variation of Tio Oso’s with roasted Hatch chiles from New Mexico. The addition gives a vegetal bite to balance the sweetness, without the heat that other chiles bring. After adding the chiles, Ortega will test each ▼ Chow Top: Drew Ortega is the head brewer for Uncle Bear’s Brewery. Above: Joshua “Archy” Archuleta is head brewer at Flying Basset Brewing. Sara Crocker >> p 21 Sara Crocker
