12 May 2nd-May 8th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | The true meaning of Cinco de Mayo Cinco de Mayo marks the Battle of Puebla, which was fought in 1862. The Mexican army, led by Gen. Ignacio Zaragoza, was outmatched but ultimately triumphed over French troops in the city of Puebla, about two hours southeast of Mexico City. Although the day is celebrated in Puebla with reenactments and parades, it doesn’t hold the countrywide weight of other milestones, such as Mexican Independence Day on Sept. 16, which marks the end of 300 years of Spanish rule. In the U.S., Cinco de Mayo took on a new life among Mexican Americans at the turn of the 20th century thanks to geopoli- tics and the push for civil rights, including the Chicano movement. In 1989, an importer of the Mexican lager Corona seized on a potential marketing opportunity by running ads encouraging people to drink Mexican beer on May 5. That would change the nature of the holiday forever. Today, Cinco de Mayo has devolved from its bicultural celebratory roots to become largely a drinking holiday fueled by the long-necked cerveza and shots of tequila. Felipe and his brother Guillermo T. Agustin say that while their family in Puebla are gearing up to celebrate Cinco de Mayo, at El Rincon Poblano, they typically host activities or music to make for a festive, family-friendly event. They hope American celebrants learn more about the holiday’s roots. “It needs more attention for sure,” Felipe says. The restaurant won’t be serving chiles en nogada in May — they wait until late August or early September when pome- granates are in season to add the dish to the menu. That timing also coincides with Mexican Independence Day. The pica- dillo-stuffed poblano, topped with a creamy walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds, is said to have first been made in Puebla to celebrate independence from Spain and is a vibrant representation of Mexico’s colors. But, El Rincon Poblano’s memelas offer another depiction of green, red and white in edible form. To create the shareable snack, a tortilla is stuffed with black beans and fried. When ordered bandera style, it comes with fiery green and red salsas and is topped with crumbles of cheese and diced onion. “We do the salsas, the red, green and the cheese. It makes a Mexican flag,” the junior Guillermo says. Traditional Pueblan menu ‘comes from the heart’ Six days a week, the family arrives at El Rincon Poblano at 4 a.m. to begin prepping their scratch-made offerings. “Pueblan dishes are very traditional,” Guillermo Agustin says. “Everything is handmade. If it’s not handmade, it’s not Pueblan food.” Among their signature dishes are mole poblano and pipian verde. Though there is debate on whether mole originated in Puebla or Oaxaca, one origin story is of a nun at the Convent of Santa Rosa creating the dish in the 17th century at the behest of a visiting dignitary. At El Rincon Poblano, the sauce is made in a large clay pot with various chiles, sesame seeds, spices, garlic, chocolate, plain Mexican biscuit cookies, fried tortillas and plantain. “It was a celebration dish,” Felipe says, adding, “The traditional dish is sweet.” Though historically served with turkey, at El Rincon Poblano, a chicken drumstick and pork rib are bathed in the sauce — a change that Esther made to accommodate the tastes of her family, but one they’ve found customers like, as well. “My dad didn’t like the turkey meat, so my mom substituted it with something else,” Felipe explains. “Our customers love it. Some customers just want the ribs, some customers just want the Mole poblano is one of El Rincon Poblano’s signatures. The restaurant’s mole uses an array of chiles, sesame seeds, spices, garlic, chocolate, Mexican biscuit cookies, fried tortillas and plantains. (Photo by Rebecca Rhoades) Left: A breaded chicken cemita from El Rincon Poblano. Described as a “dish in a sandwich,” the light, crisp seasame-seeded bun is stuffed with meat, Oaxacan cheese, avocado, onion and housemade chile condiments. Right: Noemi Merino, the wife of co-owner Guillermo T. Agustin, flips tortillas on El Rincon Poblano’s flat-top. The restaurant goes through about 150 pounds of corn each day for its tortillas. (Photos by Rebecca Rhoades) Food ‘From the Heart’ from p 11 >> p 14
