11 May 2nd-May 8th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Mexican restaurants around the Valley frequently present a panoramic view of the country’s culinary treasures. Those that get regionally specific often feature coastal seafood or the grilling traditions of Sonora. A less common culinary story told in Phoenix is that of the Mexican state of Puebla. As Cinco de Mayo revelers ready to celebrate here in the Valley, many may not realize the battle the day commemorates occurred in Puebla. In addition to its historical relevance, the state’s gastro- nomic influence is substantial — so much so that the late, iconic chef and raconteur Anthony Bourdain dubbed Puebla “where the good cooks are from.” Some of Mexico’s most popular and well-known dishes are believed to have originated in Puebla, such as mole poblano and chiles en nogada. El Rincon Poblano aims to tell the culinary story of Puebla and introduce people to lesser-known dishes from the area, such as the cemita poblana, a crisp sandwich stuffed with fried, breaded beef and the memela, a stuffed and fried tortilla. The menu is guided by recipes from Felipe’s mother, Esther Agustin. She and her husband, Guillermo Tehuitzil, emigrated from Cholula, a city in the state of Puebla, in their twenties and continued to make those dishes at home for their sons. “All the dishes, for us, it’s normal, but as we started to share our traditions with other people, everyone just started saying that’s an amazing story,” Felipe recalls of reactions as they shared the history of some of these dishes. His parents first launched El Rincon Poblano as a catering company, then opened the restaurant on Thomas Road near 33rd Avenue in 2019. or the family who runs El Rincon Poblano, each dish tells the story of their history and their home state of Puebla, Mexico. “We are emotionally connected to those dishes,” says co-owner Felipe Agustin, who runs the restaurant with his wife, brother, sister-in-law and parents. “It brings us memories of how it used to be.” >> p 12 This Cinco de Mayo, get to know food from Puebla at El Rincon Poblano. BY SARA CROCKER Food ‘From the Heart’ From left, brothers Felipe and Guillermo T. Agustin in the kitchen of their restaurant, El Rincon Poblano. Family recipes, such as the mole poblano and pipian, are cornerstones of the menu. (Photo by Rebecca Rhoades) The menu at El Rincon Poblano draws on family recipes from the restaurant’s matriarch, Esther Agustin. “Everything is handmade. If it’s not handmade, it’s not Pueblan food,” says her son, Guillermo. (Photo by Rebecca Rhoades)
